By Dr. Jim Dahle, WCI Founder
Ahh, you have finally made it. After four years in college, four years in medical school, 3-5 more years in residency, and 1-3 more in fellowship, you're finally making the big bucks. You've just started getting your first five-figure paychecks and you feel like you have some money that you don't need to spend on this month's necessities. You've got a couple hundred thousand dollars worth of student loans hanging over your head, a big mortgage, and even a little bit of credit card debt. But you're also looking at a huge tax bill, and besides, you don't want to work forever, so you've been studying up on 401(k)s and IRAs. You are financially at the place to ask yourself if you should pay off student loans or invest.
But how do you decide when to pay down loans and when to invest, especially now that the pandemic-era student loan holiday is over?
Should I Pay Off Student Loans or Invest?
It turns out it can be a pretty personal decision, and there are a lot of factors that come into play—including loan interest rates, current interest rates and inflation, expected returns on your portfolio, your current tax bracket, tax-sheltered accounts available to you, your attitude about debt, and your personal risk profile. I'll first discuss seven factors to think about, list 10 rules of thumb to follow, and finally give you 11 specific recommendations to help you decide when to pay off student loans and when to invest.
#1 Student Loan Interest Rates
The higher the interest rate on your loans, the faster you should try to pay them off. Remember to look at the after-tax rate of the loans. For instance, if you make less than a Modified Adjusted Gross Income (MAGI) of $75,000-$90,000 ($155,000-$185,000 married) in 2023, the interest on your student loans is deductible. If your marginal tax bracket (federal plus state) is 27% and your loan interest rate is 8% AND your interest is fully deductible, then your after-tax rate is 5.84%.
8%*(1-27%) = 5.84%.
Part or all of your mortgage interest may also be deductible for you.
Credit cards and car loans are not deductible. For many Americans and even many physicians, their best investment, no matter their tax bracket, is paying down high-interest-rate consumer debt. If your credit card debt is accumulating interest at 22%, you should pay that down as your first priority. That's a guaranteed 22% investment. You won't find that anywhere—with or without a tax break.
On the other hand, many of my med school classmates could refinance their student loans at less than 1% back in 2003. Although Dave Ramsey recommends paying off all your debts ASAP, many wise people are willing to carry non-callable debt at very low interest rates because of the opportunity costs you would give up by paying it off. What's the opportunity? It's the opportunity to borrow at 1% while earning 5% or even 10% on your investments. That arbitrage on $200,000 could be worth as much as $18,000 a year. That's not risk-free or tax-free, of course, but it can work out pretty well.
Although student loan interest rates have risen in the last year or two, refinancing still could be the right move for you. If you go through our affiliate links in the chart below, you will get the lowest rates available while also getting hundreds of dollars in cash back.
† Bonus includes cash rebates and value of free course. Borrowers who refinance more than $60,000 in student loans using the WCI links will be enrolled in The White Coat Investor’s flagship course, Fire Your Financial Advisor: ATTENDING for free ($799 value). Borrowers will still receive the amazing cash rebates that WCI has negotiated with each lender. Offer valid for loan applications submitted from May 1, 2021 through October 31, 2025. Free course must be claimed within 90 days of loan disbursement. To claim free course enrollment, visit https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/RefiBonus.
#2 Current Interest Rates and Inflation
Hypothetically, if your loans are at 3%, inflation is at 4%, and your savings account is paying 5%, it is easy to see mathematically why you might not want to prioritize paying down that loan. Let me give you an example. In 1993, I took out a $5,000 loan for undergraduate studies. It was a great loan from my state with fantastic terms. It was 8% interest, but the interest didn't accumulate and I didn't have to make payments while I was in college . . . in medical school . . . in residency . . . or in military service. I paid off the loan in full in one lump-sum payment when I got out of the military in 2010, just before it started accumulating interest. I spent 1993 dollars, and I paid it back with the same amount of 2010 dollars. Of course, 2010 dollars were only worth 66 cents of a 1993 dollar. In essence, I borrowed $5,000 and only paid back $3,300, and I got to use the money for 17 years for free. Moral of the story? When you're borrowing money at rates below current levels of inflation or the long-term inflation rate, you might want to think twice before rushing to pay it back. The CPI year-over-year inflation rate can be found here.
Likewise, when you're borrowing money at rates below guaranteed safe investment rates (such as money market funds, CDs, or FDIC-insured savings accounts), you might not want to pay it back too quickly. Remember, of course, to adjust both rates for your current tax situation. Borrowing money at a non-deductible interest rate of 5% to invest at 6% (4% after-tax) isn't exactly a winning proposition. This is particularly a problem at times of low interest rates. If inflation is over 5% but you still can't get more than about 1% in a risk-free investment, then borrowing at 3% to invest in safe investments probably doesn't make sense.
#3 Expected Returns
I mentioned earlier that paying off a loan with 22% interest is a no-brainer. That's because the expected returns on investments available to you are nowhere near that. Don't believe me? Imagine a world where 22% after-inflation returns were available to investors. You could save 25% of your income for seven years and retire. Do you know anyone who did that? Me neither. Although estimates differ depending on who you ask, most experts agree that you can expect nominal (pre-inflation) stock market returns of 5%-10% over the long run and bond returns of 2%-5%. Naturally, those returns aren't guaranteed. It's one thing to borrow money at 3% and invest it at a guaranteed 5%. It's entirely different to borrow it at 8% and invest it in the stock market that may or may not beat that return.
An enlightening poll on the Bogleheads forum once asked at what loan interest rate an investor ought to invest instead of paying down the loan. The mean answer was 5%, but there was quite a bit of variation from 2% to 10%. I think 5% is about right. Most loans at an interest rate above that should be given a pretty high priority.
#4 Current Tax Bracket
Two investors might both have completely deductible 8% mortgages but differ in one important aspect. The first lives in Texas, and they are in the 12% federal tax bracket and the 0% state bracket. The second, in California, is in the 35% federal bracket and the 9% state bracket. The after-tax interest rate for the first is 7.04%, but it is only 4.32% for the second. The second might very reasonably conclude that they should invest while the first might decide to pay down the mortgage. That high tax bracket investor might also decide to invest instead of paying down the loan because they save a higher percentage of income by contributing to their 401(k) or other accounts. The Texan only gets a 12% tax break for 401(k) contributions, but the Californian gets a 44% tax break. Conclusion: The higher your tax bracket, the less anxious you should be to pay down debt over investing in a tax-sheltered account, especially tax-deductible debt.
#5 Available Tax-Sheltered Accounts
We saw above that the tax code can really mess with the loan vs. investment decision. The plethora of tax shelters available makes the decision even more complicated. For instance, I might prefer to invest in a 401(k) where I get a big tax break before paying down a 6% loan, but I might also prefer to pay down the loan before investing in a taxable account. A resident who expects to soon be in a high tax bracket might prefer to get more money into a Roth IRA where it will never be taxed again rather than pay down their loans. Even college savings accounts, UGMA accounts, and Health Savings Accounts offer some type of tax break to the investor. The more tax breaks available to you as an investor, the more you should lean toward investing instead of paying down loans.
#6 Attitude Toward Debt
Many of us hate debt, no matter the interest rate. I was listening to Dave Ramsey a number of years ago when a caller asked if he should use his spare cash to pay off his mortgage. Dave's suggestion was to pay it off. Then, in a few months, if he really missed it, he could take out another one. Obviously, nobody does that. There is a wonderful feeling associated with not owing anyone anything. Owning a house free and clear of the bank and knowing it can't be foreclosed on (as long as you pay your property taxes, that is) provides a great deal of security. Not having student loans also provides financial freedom in that you need less cash flow to service them and thus can work fewer hours, take a more attractive job that happens to pay less, or retire earlier.
There is also the behavioral factor. Many of us say we'll invest instead of paying down a loan, but in reality, we spend the money. Obviously, paying down a loan is more likely to help your bottom line than blowing your cash on something materialistic or fleeting. The more you hate debt, the more you should lean toward paying off your loans, even if the interest rates are reasonably low. If you think debt is the best thing since sliced bread, I suggest you read the tale of “Market-Timer,” a Bogleheads poster who managed as a grad student to lose a few hundred thousand dollars borrowed on credit cards and invested on margin in stock market futures.
#7 Personal Risk Profile
Investors differ in their need, ability, and desire to take risk. If you are a relatively conservative investor, close to retirement, or simply don't need to take on much risk (when you discover you've won the game, stop playing), you should pay off loans before investing. The less risky your portfolio and, thus, the lower the expected returns on it, the less sense it makes to carry loans while investing. For this reason, I think it is stupid to carry a mortgage into retirement. It is foolish for anyone to take on more risk than they can handle or than they need to take. As Warren Buffett likes to say, only when the tide goes out do you see who's been swimming naked.
Now that we have discussed some factors to consider and before we get into specific recommendations, I want to give you a list of guiding principles and rules of thumb to think about when deciding between paying down student loans and investing:
Paying Off Debt vs. Investing Guiding Principles
#1 Don't Leave Part of Your Salary on the Table
If your employer gives you a match in a retirement account like a 401(k) or 403(b), then be sure to get it. Not getting it is like rejecting part of your salary. Even if you have terrible, nasty debts, I would still contribute enough to get your full match. Think about it. If you get a 100% match on the first 3% of your salary (let's say that's $6,000), you contribute to the 401(k) and then you get an extra $6,000. Assuming immediate vesting, even if you turned around and pulled all that money out of the 401(k) and sent it to your lender, you would only pay a 10% penalty ($1,200) plus the taxes you would pay either way. If we assume a 25% marginal tax rate, that strategy would net you
$12,000 – 25% * $12,000 – $1,200 = $7,800
vs. $6,000 – 25% * $6,000 = $4,500
That's an extra $7,800 – $4,500 = $3,300. That's a no-brainer. Get the match.
#2 Don't Pay Off Loans Someone Else Will Pay Off
If you are going for Public Service Loan Forgiveness (PSLF) (meaning you made lots of tiny IBR/PAYE/REPAYE payments during residency or fellowship and are now employed full-time by a 501(c)3 anticipating tax-free forgiveness after 120 monthly payments), then don't send in extra money to your federal student loan lender. I've traditionally advised people to keep a “PSLF Side Fund” in a taxable account that can then be directed toward the student loans if PSLF gets changed and you're not grandfathered in or if you just don't want to work for a nonprofit anymore. However, it doesn't make much sense to invest in taxable if you still have tax-protected space like a 401(k) or Backdoor Roth IRA available to you. I'd probably put it there. Sure, it's not going to allow you to instantly pay off those student loans in the event of a PSLF catastrophe, but you'll end up wealthier for preferentially using the tax-protected account.
#3 Stop Digging
Here's another somewhat obvious point. When you realize you're in a deep hole (debt), stop digging! I can't believe how many people are wondering how to get their student loans paid off while still borrowing money to buy other stuff. If it isn't a modest house or a practice, you probably shouldn't be buying it on borrowed money. That includes cars, vacations, living expenses, boats, pets, or anything else. Professional school will make you debt-numb. Wake up to its wealth-destroying effects on your life! Do you have $400,000 in student loans? Then, you're likely one of the poorest people in the world. The guy living under the bridge is richer than you. His net worth is $0. You should be driving a beater and living somewhere that feels very middle-class.
#4 Paying Off High-Interest Rate Debt Is a Wonderful, Guaranteed Investment
If you have high-interest debt, chances are good that you're not going to find an investment that will make that much money. You don't borrow money at 20% in order to invest because the risks you would have to take to attempt to beat that return are substantial. If you have debt at 20%, you should be paying it off as a major priority. In fact, you can probably lower that figure quite a bit. If you've got 8%+ debt, you're probably better off paying that down instead of investing. That's a guaranteed 8% investment. I wish I could find more of those.
#5 How Long Do You Want to Be in Debt?
Personally, I think you ought to have your education paid for within 2-5 years of completing your training. You're really not done with med school until you've paid for it. If you go much beyond five years, it will feel like a noose around your neck. You could have had the military pay for it and you would have been done in four years. To be out of debt that quickly, you're going to have to direct a substantial portion of your income to it. Calculate how much that is, and allocate that much toward the debt. Invest the rest.
But what if that doesn't allow you to max out all the accounts you want to max out? Tough cookies. Take more money from your lifestyle spending (i.e., Live Like A Resident), not from your debt pay-down money. That's not negotiable. You're getting out of debt in 2-5 years, come hell or high water. Now, if you want to keep your student loans for five years to max out some retirement accounts when you could get out of debt in two years without maxing them out, that's OK with me. But dragging your loans out for 15 years? I promise you're going to regret that. Those who lived like a resident when they should have will be financially independent by the time those who dragged out their loans are finally done paying for school. How are you going to save for your kids' schooling when you haven't paid for yours yet?
Once your student loans are gone, you can ask yourself the same question about your mortgage. Do you really want to be paying for that stack of bricks for 15-30 years? Figure out when you want to be done paying and make payments large enough to be done by then. Don't assume you can make big huge payments later (although there's a good chance you will, thanks to inflation, but certainly no guarantee).
#6 It Isn't Just About Comparing Rates of Return
Some people make this topic way too simple. They say, “If your investment is going to earn more than the interest rate of your student loans, then you should carry the loans and invest.” That ignores way too much. It ignores risk. It ignores the effects of taxes. And it ignores other important financial issues like asset protection, estate planning, and insurance costs.
Risk
If you can get 8% investing and have 7% loans, you should invest, right? No. That 7% is risk-free, and if you want a risk-free investment, you might only be earning 1%-2%. If you adjust for risk, paying off those loans is going to be the right choice. Now, if you're comparing an expected 8% return to a guaranteed 2% return, well, that's a little easier argument to make.
Another important consideration with risk is your need to take it. If you're a 55-year-old doctor with a net worth of $100,000, you have a substantial need to take risk (including leverage risk) if you expect to retire with anything close to your accustomed standard of living. If you're a 45-year-old doctor with a net worth of $4 million, you can afford the luxury of being debt-free. This consideration had a substantial effect on our decision to pay off our very low interest rate mortgage in less than seven years.
Taxes
Some types of debt are tax-deductible, and some types of investments are taxable at various rates. To compare apples to apples, you have to tax-adjust both sides of the comparison. You have to know your marginal tax rates (and there is likely more than one). If your marginal rate on ordinary income is 35% (you can figure this out with tax software) and your debt interest is fully deductible (you can figure this out with tax software too), then a 4% debt is really a (1%-35%)*4% = 2.6% debt. If your investment return is taxed at your marginal tax rate and earns 6%, then it is really 3.9% after-tax. If your investment return is taxed at a 15% long-term capital gains rate, then that 6% return is really 5.1%. Your marginal tax rate on the investment could be even lower if you can defer some of those gains (such as with a tax-efficient stock mutual fund) or if you have offsetting depreciation (such as with a real estate investment). And it would be zero if you're investing in a tax-protected account. Now, make your comparison.
In addition to those simple calculations, we also have to consider the other tax benefits of retirement accounts. For the typical attending physician in their peak earnings years, that mostly means a tax-deferred account like a 401(k). A typical physician should expect a tax arbitrage between their marginal rate at contribution and their effective withdrawal tax rate (35% and 15% would not be unusual). That has the effect of boosting your investment return significantly as you basically started with a free 20% return in the account. In addition, that money isn't taxed as it grows. That tax-protected growth may boost your return by another 0.5%-2% per year. And if you leave it to your heirs, it can be stretched for another 10 years. That tax benefit is awfully hard to pass up in order to get out of debt a few months earlier. Similar principles hold for a tax-free account like a Roth IRA, minus the tax arbitrage.
For the new attending physician, keep in mind you could delay retirement account contributions. Instead of contributing to the 401(k) or HSA in August, you could pay down debt in August and contribute in December. You have until April of next year to get in your IRA, SEP-IRA, and employer individual 401(k) contributions. Yes, you lose the benefit of having that money start compounding in a tax-protected way right away, but at least you don't lose that tax-protected “space” forever.
Clearly, it makes a lot more sense to carry debt to invest in a tax-protected account than to invest in a taxable account. When you're maxing out all your tax-protected accounts, that's a good time to take a look at the debts you have left and see if throwing some money at them would be wise. A 401(k) is a lot more valuable than most people think it is, and it is most valuable for high-income professionals.
Asset Protection
You should be familiar with the asset protection laws in your state, as it can have a serious effect on this decision. For example, in Texas and Florida, you have strong homestead laws, and it can make a lot of sense to pay down a mortgage since that money is protected from creditors. In my state of Utah, that would not be so smart since only a small portion of home equity is protected. But our retirement accounts get 100% protection. While a doc in Texas might choose to pay down a mortgage, a doc in Utah could, just as logically, choose to invest in a cash balance plan instead—even if expected returns were similar.
You can be assured that your creditors aren't going to take your student loans away from you. But money you use to pay them down also can't be taken away from you, and since they're not going away in bankruptcy, paying them off instead of investing in taxable is a smart asset protection move. Bear in mind that asset protection isn't nearly as important as most docs think it is. The risk of having a significant above policy limits judgment against you that isn't reduced on appeal is incredibly small.
Estate Planning
Retirement accounts are very useful for estate planning. By properly designating beneficiaries, that money doesn't have to go through probate. Of course, if you expect to die any time soon, you probably don't want to pay off your student loans, as they are generally forgiven at death (if you've refinanced, be sure to read the fine print to see if they're assessed against the value of your estate). Similar issues exist with disability as most student loans are forgiven in the event of permanent disability.
Cash Flow and Insurance
One of the best benefits of paying off debt is that your cash flow needs are lower. That allows you to carry less life and disability insurance to protect that cash flow. That could be worth hundreds or thousands per month.
#7 If Unsure, Split the Difference
As you can see, sometimes an invest vs. pay off debt dilemma is very straightforward to resolve. Other times, it is complex, murky, and dependent even on your emotional feelings about debt. In those times when you're truly unsure what to do and a discussion with those closest to you doesn't help, just split the difference. Send some of the money into your student loan lender and invest the rest and realize that you're choosing between two very good things to do. What you do matters far less than the percentage of your income going toward building wealth instead of being spent.
#8 Do Both by Living Like a Resident
Better yet, do both. I get this question most frequently from brand-new attending physicians. As they enter their career, they have so many great uses for money but only so much income to put toward those great causes. Think about a typical new attending and their uses for money:
- Expanded emergency fund
- Roth conversions of any tax-deferred savings from training
- Max out retirement accounts
- Pay off credit card debt
- Pay off auto loans
- Pay off student loans
- Save up a down payment for a home
- Save up a practice buy-in
- Take a real vacation
- Upgrade the beater
The new attending simply has to prioritize what is most important and then take any disposable income and work their way down the list until it runs out. However, that new attending will make it much further down the list if spending is minimized. That's why I encourage new attendings to live like a resident for 2-5 years out of training. If you can earn $300,000 while living on $50,000, that's $250,000 (OK, perhaps $175,000 after tax) that can go toward building wealth. Even $300,000 in student loans won't last two years if you are throwing $15,000 a month at them. A little sacrifice during the early career (that doesn't even really feel like a sacrifice yet because you have not yet lived on an attending income) will allow incredible financial freedom and perhaps even financial independence by mid-career.
To be honest, the most financially successful people I see are not choosing between their student loans and investing. They are doing both. At the same time. And doing both well. The blogosphere and social media love to debate these two options, but the reality is that the same traits that lead someone to save a lot of their money and invest it well also lead them to pay off their debts rapidly.
#9 Use the Power of Focus
Focusing on one goal at a time is a very powerful technique. The debt snowball method emphasizes focus and momentum. With this method, all available income is aimed at your smallest debt while minimum payments are made toward other debts. When that first debt is paid off, the borrower feels the momentum and redirects all that income toward the next smallest debt until it is paid off. Behaviorally, it is much easier to stick with a plan when you are doing one thing and you feel like you are accomplishing it rapidly. Since personal finance is 80% personal (behavioral) and only 20% finance (math), harnessing the power of behavioral finance to reach your goals seems wise.
#10 Use Student Loan Payoff as a Practice Run for Financial Independence
For a typical doctor, financial independence is a 15-30 year goal. Paying off student loans can be a 2-5 year goal. Aside from that difference, reaching the goals involves the exact same principles and discipline. In this respect, paying off your student loans rapidly is a trial run for becoming financially independent rapidly. When I see someone dragging out their student loans for 10, 15, or even 20 years, I worry they'll never become financially independent.
Priorities to Consider When Balancing Paying Down Student Loans vs. Investing
I suggest you use the following list of loan/investing priorities when deciding between paying down student loans and investing:
- Get your match. Be sure to put enough into your employer-provided retirement accounts to get your entire available match. That's part of your salary
- Decide how long you want to have student loans (generally 2-5 years). Figure out the minimum amount to pay each month to be done by that date. Additional payments toward this goal can be moved down this list depending on the interest rate. Obviously, if you are going for PSLF or IDR forgiveness, don't pay extra on your federal student loans.
- Pay off high-interest debt. Any credit cards or consumer debt at 8% or higher should be paid off ASAP. Honestly, you should have never accumulated this. Live like a resident until it is gone. If you have 8%+ private student loans, refinance them ASAP and then you can move them down this list a bit.
- Invest in tax-protected accounts. If you are a resident, max out your personal and spousal Roth IRAs. If you are an attending, max out your 401(k), SEP-IRA, HSA, and any other retirement account that allows you full marginal tax rate deductions.
- Pay off non-deductible loans between 5%-8% (i.e., graduate student loans).
- Consider investing in other accounts that offer a tax break, such as 529s (kid's college accounts), UGMAs, and Backdoor Roth IRAs.
- Invest in risky assets in a taxable account (stock mutual funds or investment properties).
- Pay off loans with after-tax rates of 3%-5%.
- Pay off loans with after-tax rates below 3%.
- Don't carry any debt into retirement. Losing the safety net of ongoing employment income makes this a risky affair. It's one thing to get foreclosed on when you're 30. It's entirely different when you're 70.
If you have not looked into refinancing your student loans lately, you might be surprised to learn that you can get a better deal than your current rate. Use the affiliate links in the chart below to get the best rates available and hundreds of dollars in cash back, all while helping to support the site.
† Bonus includes cash rebates and value of free course. Borrowers who refinance more than $60,000 in student loans using the WCI links will be enrolled in The White Coat Investor’s flagship course, Fire Your Financial Advisor: ATTENDING for free ($799 value). Borrowers will still receive the amazing cash rebates that WCI has negotiated with each lender. Offer valid for loan applications submitted from May 1, 2021 through October 31, 2025. Free course must be claimed within 90 days of loan disbursement. To claim free course enrollment, visit https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/RefiBonus.
What do you think? How did you decide whether to pay off your student loans early? Comment below!
[This updated post was originally published in 2011.]
WCI,
Should I refinance with SoFi at a longer 7-10 year term/higher interest (4.15%) and deposit the difference (~$2000/month) in an investment account?
Personal Financial Summary
-365k student loan debt -recently refinanced with SoFi at 3.85%, 5y term. Payment ~$6700/mo
-350k spouse student loan debt. qualifies for PSLF. Though, we may refinance if we don’t start seeing actual forgiveness soon.
-adequate emergency fund
-maxed out personal/spouse 401ks and backdoor roth IRAs
-renting but looking to buy “reasonable” house within 1yr or so
Any insight is appreciated.
Regards,
Ryan
To be clear, spouse has 403(b).
You can do whatever you want. It’s your money. I wouldn’t, because I know how lame it is when people still have student loans 5 years after getting out of residency. How long do you want to owe for your education? In my case, 4 years was plenty. I think 4.15% is a wonderful guaranteed return. The other benefit of paying them off in 2-5 years is you get the lower 5 year rate and you can afford to run the interest rate risk yourself with a variable loan, so you save lots and lots of interest. Plus you can take advantage of the power of focus, which is worth a lot.
If you’re worried about PSLF, save up a side account in case it doesn’t materialize. But for loans that won’t qualify for PSLF, refinance them and pay them off fast.
I’m no expert, but I think this is a very personal decision and how debt averse and risk tolerant you are. I often ask myself, would I take a loan at 4.15% to invest in the market? Probably not, but that’s me. 4-5% guaranteed return is where I have my cutoff- debt with interest rates below that I don’t prioritize paying down and put extra in market. We’re in a bull market but I think it will eventually correct so there’s risk of losing too. Also, I’m not disciplined enough to insure I save that extra $2k to invest it ( as my husband says.. baby likes her shoes), so in my situation, it’s better to throw it at the debt. I’d be interested to see what WCI has to say.
Call me lame but I’m 8 years out from fellowship, still paying loans and will continue for the next 12 years. At 2.125%, it makes absolutely no sense for me to throw good money at debt when I can invest and make 3-4% on the differential.
It’s obviously up to you to do whatever you want, and one can certainly make an argument to invest on leverage with interest rates that low, but I’ll bet you decide at some point in the next 12 years to just get rid of it and simplify your financial life.
Thank you in advance for any comments to my post. I am trying to start following your advice an need to know which loans I should prioritize paying off first.
1 – student loans $50k refinanced at 2.96% variable rate 6 year loan
2 – auto loan #1 – $10k at fixed 2.75% 3 years remaining
3 – auto loan #2 – $30k at fixed 3.35% 5 years remaining
Already have full emergency fund and 401k contribute up to match. I just didn’t know if its better to put extra money toward auto debt or student debt first (I don’t get to deduct any interest from student loan interest).
No right answer there. The behavioralists would say auto loan # 1 first because it is smallest. The mathematicians would say auto loan # 2 because it has the highest interest rate. And if the student loan rate crept up, then switch to that. They’re all low interest and about the same interest rate though, so it doesn’t matter much. I’d just figure out when you want to be out of debt and pay enough each month to be out of debt by then, investing everything else.
I found your website a year after I signed up for a whole life insurance policy, and I knew then that I needed to figure out my finances sooner rather than later. So I’d love to hear you take:
29, single, no kids, gross income at 168,000. I currently max out 401k, HSA, and backdoor IRA.
– 89,000 in student loan debt at 3.35%, refinanced through SoFi
– 16,700 in auto loan debt at 3.35%
– 10,000 in credit card debt at 0% until December 2018
I have about 10k in an SoFi Wealth taxable account (no management/advisor fees as long as I’m a borrower) which I’ll use to pay off the credit card before December and 2 months of expenses in my emergency fund.
What would you do in my situation if you had any extra cash?
Well, after I dumped the whole life I’d draw up a plan to be out of debt within 2-3 years. I’d liquidate the taxable account and pay off debt with it. I’d probably burn my E-fund down to 1 month and pay off debt with it too. I’d probably keep trying to max out the 401(k), HSA, and IRA and put everything else I could carve out of my lifestyle toward the debt. If you can’t be out of debt in 5 years and max those things out, I might even pass on maxing them out. And I’d quit buying cars on credit. I don’t know that I’d sell the one you have and buy a beater to get out of debt faster, but I’d think about it.
Awesome site. I’d love your opinion on my financial scenario. New attending, started in Aug 2017, making about 190K per year. Have $28,000 refinanced through SoFi at 4%, $25,000 car loan at 0% and house mortgage about $250,000 at 3.53%. Single income house, with 1 child. Just opened 529 with minimal contribution so far. Have $50,000 in emergency fund currently. Saving about $5000 monthly. Plan on doing backdoor Roth this year (opened the Roth initially in residency). Also caveat about our house mortgage is that it’s 30 year but first 15 years fixed and then next 15 years ARM so we want to pay that off within 15 years (and not have to refi if we can avoid it).
Accounts:
Roth IRA: $12,600
403b: $25,000
457b: Have not contributed yet– a little nervous about this one
Healthcare employer contribution account: $9000
Questions:
1. Thoughts on 457b? I know there’s a whole thread on this, but the bottomline I got was it’s a riskier investment.
2. Thoughts about paying off the student debt vs investing? Should I just pay off the entire debt in next 1-2 years or use emergency fund to pay it off sooner? I could use half my emergency fund now and just be done with the student debt.
3. Or another option is to keep the 50K e-fund and for the monthly $5000 I’m saving, put half extra toward student loans and other half toward investing.
4. My other thought was to pay off loans in 1-2 years while keeping e-fund largely intact, then use the extra monthly savings to increase mortgage payment (half) and invest (other half)
5. Totally unrelated, but for the 529 I have minimal contribution right now. I don’t plan on financing an entire college education through this but more like a cushion– any thoughts on reasonable contribution for this?
Sorry for all the questions and thanks for your input!!
1. If the investment options are good, the distribution options are good, and the employer is stable, then use it.
2. I would have paid it off yesterday with that $50K. Same with the car loan. (Actually I’d be driving a cheaper car for a few more years.)
3. Also a good option.
4. Also not crazy.
5. It depends. I put in the max that my state lets me take a credit for. That’s $4K per kid per year. But it depends on how much you want to have, how much time you have, what returns you expect etc. Anything is better than nothing but honestly I think you should pay off your education before starting on that of your kids.
Hello,
I have government (foreign) and Bank loans while in medical school. My government loans don’t accrue interest until I’m done residency and my bank loan draws 3.45%. I’m currently only using about $7K from my bank loan available $250K. I was reading about Dave Ramsey’s 12% Mutual fund return and thought about taking $50-$80K of my bank loan and investing it in mutual funds. Realizing that I probably won’t get 12% actual return, but hopefully better than 3.45%, is this worthwhile?
Should you invest on margin? I don’t generally recommend it. Could you come out ahead doing so? Sure. Could you also go bankrupt? Absolutely. I would spend your time and effort (and money) on learning how to be a great doctor right now. Minimize your loans.
I have referred to this article and list of loan/investing priorities many times, and I confess, it didn’t occur to me until recently that, unless I’m misreading it, one would never reach priorities nos. 6-9, because the opportunity to allocate each additional dollar to no. 5 “invest in risky assets in a taxable account (stock mutual funds or investment properties)” is unlimited.
Have I got that right?
While unlimited, you may choose to invest less there for various reasons (like you don’t want a more aggressive asset allocation) and thus move on to 6-9.
Dear WCI,
Your website has been immensely helpful.
I appreciate your time and advice.
I want to decide and stick with a plan regarding my student loans
PSLF vs refinance
BASIC INFORMATION
-Salary appx 220k
-Debt appx 300K
Option # 1
PSLF- I ‘m VA employee for 2 years, will qualify for loan forgiveness May 2026
-Monthly payment with REPAYE ~1600
-Pros (I have money to save, invest, cushion for family planning (32 yr F)
-Con (1) uncertainty in the program, (2) there is good likelihood I’ll move in couple of years and so I’ll need to stick to employer that qualifies – regardless I hope to stay in the VA anyway
Option # 2
Refinance. I finally qualified for a lower rate with Sofi, 3.2 for a 5-year plan. This means paying appx 5k/month for 5 years.
Pro- (1) debt free in 5 years or less, can probable push to pay off in 4 years if no kid(s) by then
(2) I don’t have to worry about PSLF qualifying jobs if and when I move
Con – (1) No much wiggle room to invest/save for house, etc (2) tight budget for when having kids in couple of years- hopefully
In both scenarios, I’ll max out on TSP and backdoor Roth so no difference there.
Thank you!
Did you not make any IBR/PAYE/REPAYE payments during training? If so, PSLF should be just a few more years away. If you didn’t, there probably won’t be much left to forgive with PSLF after 10 years of payments. But the VA has some other student loan program, do you know about that? Maybe you could combine that with refinancing and paying them off.
Unfortunately no. Only started IBR/repaye/paye when I started working at VA 2 yrs ago, so I will qualify for PSLF in 8 yrs. Paid high interest private loans during residency.
I am receiving EDRP through the VA also. It’s up to 24k/yr for a total of 5 yrs.
EDRP does not affect PSLF, which is why I’ve dragged my feet to refinance. Also- now is the first time i’m getting a good rate for refinancing.
I’ve been reading for a while, which prompted me to fund a Roth IRA each year and keep up as much as possible with student loans during residency- thanks. Before graduating I had term life and own occ disability set up as well. Now that I’m a new attending with drastically different income, I’d like your thoughts on next steps.
Debt: $60,000 student loans currently ~7% on avg; $10,000 on a 0% interest credit card (this was for taking boards, travel prior to starting work, and then surviving until first paycheck after graduating), no car note, no mortgage
Income: $350,000 in high cost of living city, rent is about $2500
Emergency fund: $20,000 in a savings account
Retirement savings: $30,000 in a Roth IRA with Vanguard; no 401k/403b or anything as my residency did not provide a match
I am in the middle of refinancing student loans and have been quoted ~2% for 5 years. My new job offers an HSA which I’ll max out, and a 401k (with no match) that I will max out NEXT year once I’m eligible. I will try a backdoor Roth IRA for the first time too for now.
With a much higher income and limited tax advantaged spaces, and considering the very low interest on my debts, how would you prioritize the loans vs taxable investment accounts or anything else you suggest?
No right answer. Maybe split the difference. On $350K, I’d pay off $60K by the end of the year and that credit card too.
In a little bit of a different boat- I’m an acupuncturist 5 years into PAYE. Took a year after school for volunteering experience to put on my resume (also free CEU’s) and mental/physical health purposes (thru hike- got rid of stress and some weight :P. My income has been ~$10k AGI all of those years. Finally got into some better situations this year- paid off biz startup fees and since Oct saving >50% of income. Pay this year will be ~$30k, plus about $7k from music gigs and $~4k from bank bonuses. I also get ~$3k/yr in cash from cash gigs/tips.
Honestly not really looking to hustle a lot more- I get 3-4 days off a week and a lot of flexibility for music gigs, if I want to travel, etc, plus just a nice work environment. Little confused on investing now that I’ve got some resources.
I will have an HSA next year so I know that’s #1…after that- it seems like it makes more sense to do solo 401k, THEN roth? I don’t expect income to go up dramatically if at all. Seems like better thing is to go for max forgiveness right?
You’re saving 50% of $40K? I’m impressed with your frugality.
I think if I were you I’d go Roth IRA first, then Roth 401(k) if you are eligible. Be sure to get your saver’s credit on your taxes. You should get a huge PPACA credit on your health insurance, but I don’t know if an HDHP/HSA is right for you or not.
50% of $40k is not hard at all- until this year (age 38) I’ve lived on $10-20k a year the rest of my adult life (FT musician in my 20s, then just getting started in acu last couple yrs). Tiny studio in major east coast city = $650 incl utils- definitely took a while to find, but I had a $400 room year before that, and a $700 studio year before; no car; CSA for most of my groceries (trader joes/farmer’s market for rest). I think if you get housing, transport, and food low it’s a really strong base to save from. I’m a work smarter not harder kinda gal so always trying to get a good deal. Been travel hacking and “churning” for a few years.
Isn’t HSA always the priority? It’s triple tax-advantaged. I honestly rarely go to a western doctor 🤷♀️ and would use healthcare plan mostly for emergencies/yearly checkup. Or travel for medical tourism (just got $300 of dental work done in Colombia for which I’d been quoted $2k in the US- had a free flight and hotels with points and vouchers, plus an awesome vacation). I’m sure I’ll need the HSA $ more at some point when I get older tho. Rather save my receipts for now.
I also don’t understand why I wouldn’t do SEP/solo 401 first before Roth. The SEP/solo 401 k (or trad for that matter) would lower my loan payment, leading to more forgiven. Even tho the tax bomb will be large, the total amount owed would be less overall.
I didn’t know about the saver’s credit, that’s awesome! I will check this out and see how that affects things.
I’m certainly not an expert at the best financial path for those in your tax bracket. At that level things like maximizing your PPACA and saver’s credit and earned income credit are the big bang for your buck items. Although loan forgiveness would be big too.
Roth vs tax-deferred is always a bit of a debate, but you’re right that doing tax-deferred would lead to lower payments and thus more forgiveness.
HSAs are great at all tax brackets, but I haven’t spent a lot of time thinking about its downsides for someone at your income level.
I think most of my readers and probably most people would disagree that living on $10-20K is easy but more power to you.
Hi. This may be a silly question but I’d love to hear your thoughts. I have $20k set aside in stocks, and $70k in savings. I have paid off $62k in one loan (6.55% fixed rate), and have $12,064 left. (That’s approx $15k in interest I believe.)👎🏼
I have another loan (4.66% variable rate), -$6208 left and I’ve paid $5400 to date, ($2600 in interest)I believe.) 👎🏼
My question is: do I pay off these two loans ($18,000) now with my savings, OR, do I keep paying them off ($400-600 a month), and toss more of my savings into my stocks? My fiancé suggested this option…
Side-note:These loans are from my undergraduate and graduate years. I finished graduate school in December 2012 /January 2013 and I just turned 34.
Thanks. Would love to hear your thoughts and suggestions!
If I had a 4.66% variable and a 6.55% fixed loan I’d be eating ramen in order to put more toward them. There’s no way I would have those debts AND $70K in savings. If I were you, I’d wipe out those loans before noon tomorrow. Then decide how much is a large enough emergency fund, how much you’ll need for the wedding, and invest the rest in index funds, preferably in a retirement account if I were eligible to use one.
Thank you! So you wouldn’t take this 18k and apply it towards stocks tomorrow? How come? Guess I don’t understand why applying the money towards the loans is a better option if they’re both (now) really low.
I don’t consider 4.66-6.55% a low interest rate nor do I consider having relatively small loans a reason to keep the loans around (more like a reason to wipe them out and make my financial life simpler.) If you pay them off and don’t like it, you can always borrow more money to invest on leverage.
Not mentioned is the tax deductibility of the loans so the effective rates are a bit lower. My fiancé thinks I should absolutely have more in stocks than in savings but I’ve been a bit resistant to adding to the stock account. His Ideal scenario for me is to wipe out 1/2-of all of the 6.55% loan and to keep making payments on the lower interest one. And to move another 30k from savings into the stock account. What do you think?
The vast majority of my audience, at least after training, cannot deduct student loan interest because they make too much. So I generally ignore it.
It’s good you guys are talking about money. Best to get on the same page before you get married. But I already told you what I think. Now you have to make a decision you can live with.
Thanks for this great blog post and all the other content. We are a dual-career couple with a child. I have $180K in low interest rate (2.7% ) privately refinanced student loan debt. Due to some investments, I will receive $170K this month (taxable), which will push my family income into the 35% tax bracket (I cannot defer this income). I am considering my options between paying down a significant chunk of the student loan versus trying to reduce my tax burden. We have already maxed out our 401k, Roth IRA, and 529. I feel uneasy about a large investment into a taxable stock market account, when the market is at it’s peak. I am leaning towards partially investing in bonds and CDs and partially paying off student loan. Am I missing any options here?
How are you going to use the money to lower your tax burden? I certainly wouldn’t invest in bonds and CDs while toting that debt around. If you’re too nervous about the stock market to invest in it according to your written plan (you do have one, right?) then pay off the debt and revise the written plan so it allows you to time the market based on your gut feelings. Or if that sounds as silly to you as it sounds to me, get a written plan and follow it. If the plan says pay off your debt, then pay it off. If it says invest in stocks, then invest in stocks. The point of a plan is to not have to fret about this sort of thing every time you come into some money, no matter where the money comes from.
https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/investing/you-need-an-investing-plan/
But I’d pay off the debt tomorrow if I were you, then get to work on the plan.
Thanks so much! I am going to sit down and decide my priorities and come up with a plan.
This is such an evergreen article. Amazing you posted this >10 years ago and it is still something to consider.
I went the route of making some extra payments on my student loans (at one time about 300K worth). But with a net worth of almost 8 figures, I still haven’t paid off the last of my wife and my student loans. We still have about 60K remaining at about 1.8%. It has been a very good trade. I keep saying that one of these days I will just pay them off. But I always seem to find better things to do with the money and just keep paying the approx $700/month.
It obviously isn’t a good decision for everyone, but 17 years out from medical school it has been a good decision for me.
I think you’re an outlier. I don’t think most decamillionaires are still trying to arbitrage $60K. So let’s say you earn 3.5% after tax on that money you’re borrowing at 1.8%. So that’s 1.7%. That’s $1,000 a year. Yes, that’s important money to a resident. But not a decamillionaire. I bet you pay it off soon.
Wow 175 comments! I agree with 95% of what you say on debt as always.
Article started leaning toward it being ok to carry low interest debt long term instead of paying off at the beginning. Maybe more so than you have in the past. Like a 1.6% student loan for example I plan to carry into retirement because of the math despite being FI. But as you continued the article you started going back to “just pay stuff off in 2-5 or 7 years” no matter the math for the psychological benefit. It sounds like you are starting to agree that’s not ALWAYS the smart thing to do. So like the story of Winston Churchill and the prostitute now we are just haggling on the amounts. If you can get 6% on a CD you’d take that over paying off a 1% loan i think unless having any debt makes you sick. It’s not really debt though if you have the money to pay it locked up in a guaranteed investment. So really we are just saying how big does that difference have to be to make it worth it mathematically and psychologically. When we are talking guaranteed money like money market and CD it really is a math problem.
Besides the student loan payoff point that comes up a lot, a couple new small points. There is actually a very low risk investment available to some of us over 20%. ASCs. Not 100% guarantee but pretty darn close for long established ones. I’d say considerably lower risk than the market. I might put that at the top if that’s an option to always max that out in a good ASC. Even with paying off credit card debt maybe.
One other thing i took exception to is my dad retired this week and I advised him not to pay off his remaining mortgage. It’s at 2%. He has CDs currently for about 3X what’s left on his mortgage. But they’re at 5%+. You called that “stupid” in the article! I think it’s ok to disagree but that rate arbitrage at a minimum isn’t “stupid”.
Unlike Churchill’s prostitute, I think the amount does matter. I think it’s silly for a decamillionaire to get a $20K car loan because it’s only 1.6%. But a broke resident? Different story.
My opinion on this topic hasn’t really changed over the years. But my wealth level has, so now I’m debt free.
Thanks for this it was very educational!
Our pleasure.
Jim, based on your experience do you believe PSLF is being administered in accordance with law and applicable regs? I have no reason to think it isn’t, if so it appears compelling. Thanks for your great work.
Yes. It is compelling. If you work for a 501(c)3 full-time and have federal student loans it should be the mainstay of your student loan plan.
Thank you very much for sharing your professionalism and knowledge Dr. Jim. Time has passed since I had a student loan but if I had to go through the same thing again of choosing investing over a student loan I would not think twice and go with investing. I am not saying amounts but as time goes by and it does not come back to you the investing opportunities seem to appear when the energy is there. I would go with investing and use the time to learn and prepare for the future. Thank you again for your points and advice.