I often tell people to choose a reasonable asset allocation (written investing plan) and stick with it. In this regard, the investor matters far more than the investments. Of course, that requires that the investing plan first be REASONABLE. Those of us who have been doing this for a long time can tell at a glance whether a plan is reasonable or not. Sure, we'll bicker about whether you have too much in one asset class, too little in another, or perhaps whether you just have too many asset classes altogether. But there is plenty of room for disagreement among reasonable people.
However, there are LOTS of portfolios out there that simply are not reasonable. That was the point behind my famous 150 Portfolios Better Than Yours post. Anybody who thinks there is only one way to invest successfully is simply ignorant. If you pick something reasonable and fund it adequately, it is highly likely to reach your goals.
Despite the fact that a veteran can recognize “reasonable” vs “unreasonable” (a bit like “sick” vs “not sick” in medicine) at a glance, there are plenty of newbies who really don't know the difference. So today I'm going to try to teach them. And what better way than a top ten list?
10 Ways to Know if Your Investment Plan is Reasonable
If you're wondering if your investment plan is reasonable, ask yourself these ten questions.
# 1 Can You Stick With It?
An asset allocation can be a pretty personal thing, and that's mostly because of one factor–we all have different tolerances of the various risks in investing. An asset allocation might be reasonable, but that doesn't mean it is reasonable for you. For example, a portfolio that is highly tilted toward investing “factors” like small and value is a bad idea if you can't handle significant tracking error away from the S&P 500. Likewise, if you'll bail out of your long-term bond portfolio after a rapid rise in interest rates.
# 2 Are You Taking Enough Risk?
Here's an example of an unreasonable portfolio:
- 25% Gold
- 25% Whole Life Insurance
- 25% Bonds
- 25% CDs
Why is it unreasonable? Mostly because you aren't willing to save 50% of your gross income for an entire career. The expected returns on this sort of a low-risk portfolio are so low that it is unlikely to provide for the financial goals of most people. I'd expect this portfolio to keep up with inflation over the long run, but that's about it.
# 3 Are You Taking On Too Much Risk?
Here's another unreasonable portfolio:
- 25% Apple Stock
- 25% in a single muni bond
- 25% in Ethereum
- 25% in your brother in law's small business
Believe it or not, a lot of people own portfolios like this. If it isn't patently obvious why this portfolio is unreasonable, you should not be managing your own money.
Apple might be a great company (don't ask me) but putting 25% of your portfolio into ANY single company that you are not the CEO of (and even then if you can avoid it) is dumb. It's just a dumb investment. You're taking on uncompensated risk.
Same thing with a single bond. No, muni bonds don't default very often, but close to zero is not the same as zero.
I'm not a big fan of cryptocurrencies as I think they're speculative instruments, but if you are going to speculate in them it seems foolish to me to bet on a single one. Better yet, keep any speculative bets to a much smaller percentage of your portfolio.
And if you thought a single stock was risky, you might want to take a look at the failure rate for small businesses: 20% go out of business in year one and by year ten 70% are out of business. It's just not an appropriate place for such a big bet. Diversification is a key principle of investing. Always has been. Always will be.
If your real estate portfolio is highly leveraged, you have the same issue. Leverage works, but it works both ways. If your portfolio can't handle all expected events and most unexpected events, you probably need to make a change. How much is too much leverage? Well, consider that the pros generally put down 25-35%. There's probably a good reason for that.
Benjamin Graham, the mentor of Warren Buffett, classically taught that you should keep your stock to bond ratio between 25/75 and 75/25. There is a lot of wisdom there in the idea that you never want to take too much or too little risk.
# 4 Is It Overly Complex?
Consider this portfolio:
- 3% Bitcoin
- 2% Ethereum
- 5% Gold
- 6% Large growth stocks
- 8% Mid cap value stocks
- 5% Small cap value stocks
- 4% Small cap growth stocks
- 9% Tech stocks
- 4% Chinese stocks
- 4% Spanish stocks
- 3% Frontier Market Stocks
- 11% European Stocks
- 9% Japanese Stocks
- 4% short term corporates
- 6% long term treasuries
- 3.5% cash
- 1.5% Hard money loan funds
- 4% in a crowdfunded apartment building in Houston
- 2% IBonds
- 2% TIPS
- 5% International Mortgage REITs
21 different asset classes and at least that many holdings. This is the definition of rebalancing hell. I think there is great benefit in going out to three asset classes and significant additional benefit in going up to 7. Perhaps a case can be made for up to 10 asset classes. Beyond that, you're just playing with your money. You're wasting too much time and generating too much in commissions, fees, expense ratios, and other costs.
Remember there are very sophisticated investors using a “3 Fund” portfolio or even a single target retirement or life strategy fund for their entire portfolio. You don't need this kind of complexity to be successful.
# 5 Is It Overly Concentrated?
Consider this portfolio:
- 20% TIPS
- 20% Total Bond Market
- 10% Total Stock Market
- 10% Total International Stock Market
- 40% Small Value Stocks
There is some data out there that small value stocks are likely to outperform the overall market in the long run. But the data is retrospective (and thus highly subject to data mining) and quite limited. Plus, this is investing, not physics. The actions of an incredibly complex system are not easily explained and change over time, especially in response to their own measurement. Betting 2/3rds of your stock portfolio on just 2% of the market/economy is not the most brilliant of moves. Even if the bet works out, will you be able to stick with it long enough to see that day?
# 6 Are You Going To Get Killed on Taxes?
Let's say you are in the highest tax bracket and your portfolio is 90% taxable and only 10% tax-protected. This portfolio might not be wise:
- 20% Large Value Stocks
- 20% Mid Cap Value Stocks
- 20% Hard Money Loans
- 10% TIPS
- 20% REITs
- 10% Junk Bonds
This is an incredibly tax-inefficient portfolio. It just isn't right for a mostly taxable investor. Sure, you don't want the tax tail to wag the investing dog, but this person would come out so much further ahead if their portfolio were primarily made up of tax-efficient investments like broadly diversified total market index funds, equity real estate owned directly or via funds/syndications (where income is sheltered by depreciation unlike in publicly traded REITS), muni bond funds, and I Bonds. Yes, you could have one or two tax-inefficient small asset classes placed into your tax-protected accounts, but that's about it.
# 7 Are You Leaving Free or Nearly Free Money On The Table?
Imagine you love real estate and alternative investments. Maybe you want to avoid mutual fund investing all together but that's all that your 401(k) offers. By not investing there, you not only may leave part of your salary on the table in the form of the 401(k) match, but you are likely leaving a ton of tax and asset protection benefits there too.
Another way that free money gets left on the table is when you have two uncorrelated asset classes with similar expected returns. By only investing in one, you are leaving the “rebalancing bonus” on the table. Perhaps the classic example of this is someone who does not wish to invest in international stocks at all. I suppose if you truly believe that international stocks will significantly underperform US stocks over your investing time horizon this isn't a crazy thing to do, but given the evidence to the contrary, you're likely leaving money on the table by doing so.
# 8 Can You Get Similar Performance at Lower Expense?
Imagine two mutual funds that invest in large cap stocks. In fact, let's imagine two separate 500 index funds. There is the Vanguard fund, with an expense ratio of 0.03% and there is the Rydex fund, with an expense ratio of 2.41%. What would you expect if you plotted out long term performance of these two investments?
Well, over the last 10 years (as of 12/16/2019) the first has annualized performance of 13.40% versus 10.71%. I'm not one to tell you to choose investments purely based on past performance, but when there is a really good reason for that lower performance, you probably ought to pay attention.
It turns out the best predictor of future long-term mutual fund performance among funds that invest in the same asset class is….wait for it…..drumroll please…..expense ratio. That's right. Cost matters, and it matters a lot.
# 9 Does It Pass The EyeBall Test
Ask yourself three questions:
- Would you put your parent's money into this asset allocation?
- Would any reasonable person argue vehemently against it?
- If your best friend came to you with this portfolio, would you try to talk him out of it?
Often we can justify some investment risks to ourselves because we find the investments interesting or feel we can tolerate them better than the average bear. But when you're talking about your parents', friends', or clients' money, you probably think differently. Imagine you have a fiduciary duty to yourself, and act accordingly.
# 10 If You Fund it Adequately, Will It Be Successful?
Imagine you put $100K per year into this portfolio? Will you have a very high likelihood of successfully reaching your goals? At the end of the day, the purpose of investing is to reach YOUR goals, while taking as little risk as possible. Match the investments to the goals, rather than vice versa, and you'll likely be a lot happier with the results.
What do you think? How do you define a “reasonable” portfolio? What are some examples of portfolios you think are unreasonable? What does your portfolio look like? Comment below!
I am interested to see how hedgefundie does with 55%URPO/45%TMF. Not reasonable for my money. But fun to watch.
Lots of people become”experts” in food economic times. We will see who is swimming naked when the tide goes out.
An awesome article.
I love these kind of articles, which help understand the fundamentals.
This article is on par with the “uncompensated risk” article.
These are the core guidelines.
Thank you for sharing this.
How do you conceptualize the WCI business in your portfolio? For example, each year it comprises more and more of your net worth. Do you mitigate that risk? Bill Gates has been selling his stock systematically in Microsoft year after year to solve his first world problem. Can you imagine a day when your stock allocation is not 60 percent, because your economic interest WCI is 80 percent of your net worth? Or, does it simply not matter because you are FI?
I don’t include it in my portfolio. I also removed my other small businesses (mostly WCI Network sites) from my portfolio this month too.
I don’t need to imagine it. It’s tough to valuate, but at my best guess it’s 2/3 of our net worth. Our stock market risk pales in comparison. But we are FI without it.
When is the point at which someone can remove an asset from one’s portfolio? Is it when you are FI? In the “intention to treat” dogma, all data should be included. Of course, it is reasonable to cherry pick when FI, but at what point do you simply not count an asset because it is too valuable? Using your examples above, if you listed a portfolio of (1) 0.66 lucrative small business, (2) 0.20 stock, (3) 0.06 real estate, (4) 0.08 bond/cash—what would the WCI say if he saw this article in 2011? Why remove it this month versus 6 months ago? Why not wait another 6 months before removing it? Granted, just philosophical interest at this point.
I’m not running a study. I’m managing my own money so I get to do it however I like. I removed it this month because it made for convenient spreadsheet updating. But when you let me know how to rebalance Passive Income MD, I’ll think about including it again. At any rate, it just didn’t make sense to have an equity real estate category where >50% of it was websites/small businesses.
The 2011 WCI would say “Congratulations to you on your success! Diversify against your greatest risk as best you can without killing the golden goose.” Same as the 2020 WCI.
I don’t include every asset I own in my retirement portfolio. I bet you don’t either. But if I did, what would you propose I do when an illiquid company I own increases in value by 80% and the rest of the portfolio only increases by 28%? Sell it? Can’t do that. Stop buying it? Can’t do that. Take out a loan against it to invest in the market? That sounds stupid. All you can do is take the income from it and invest it elsewhere.
LOL. Exactly. It is an esoteric issue that is probably not worth thinking too hard about. I had one client in a similar situation and we created an “other/alternatives” category—but that was only 25 percent and it would have been very reasonable to just ignore that one too.
John Burr Williams has the answer. It is simply the amount of money that can be taken out of PIMD over the life of the business, with a discount rate applied. Most would use the 30 treasury bond rate (2.18 percent today). You would have to apply a growth factor to PIMD. More realistically though, you are probably better equipped to know the valuation of PIMD (today) better than anyone. Just ask what someone would pay if you put it up for sale today? If it is valued—just to make up a number—at 1 million dollars, and you owned 25 percent of it, your asset value is $250,000. The $250,000 would go into the new website category. David Swenson, the manager of the Yale endowment portfolio, might think about alternatives in this fashion.
I know the valuation just fine, at least as well as anyone else. The question is how to rebalance it and is it worth even bothering. What do I do when it is worth more than the category I put it in? Try to sell my shares back? It just didn’t make sense to do any of that so I pulled it out of my retirement portfolio all together, along with my other illiquid small business holdings.
I know you all will hate me for saying this, but that poor tarantula. They are nearly harmless and get such a bad rap.
Love item #4 on complexity. Reminds me of at least half of the portfolios in the recent post “150 Portfolios Better Than Yours”. 😉
I like to keep it simple with my 3 fund portfolio. Well actually one 4 fund portfolio, 2 two fund portfolios, and one that’s specifically for fun/speculation with a basket of water and CRSPR stocks. And I agree with previous commenter, great review of investing fundamentals. Thanks.
I haven’t even read the article yet….but please do not hold tarantula’s that close to your face. They have a defense mechanism where they rub their hind legs together and shoot their leg hairs at you. It makes not difference for human skin. However, for the human cornea it is horribly toxic. I have seen 2 full corneal transplants (performed one of them) from tarantula hairs.
I realize that given the positioning there is no way the tarantula could shoot them at his face. But thought it at least warranted the PSA.
Thanks,
So do the dead ones still shoot hairs? Because that one has been dead a long, long time already.
Ok…I read the article now. Good article. I’ll hold by my tarantula statement though. Also, make sure you wash your hands if you are going to handle a tarantula. The hairs can be transferred from fingers to eyes.
Thanks!
Wash them in what, sand? Tarantulas don’t live in my bathroom.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3220910/#!po=3.33333
Two other interesting follow ups:
1) keratitis from handling and accidental transfer to eye https://europepmc.org/article/med/10810943
2) retinal injury from migration of hairs
https://www.hindawi.com/journals/crim/2009/159097/
As an EM Doc I can say I’ve never even considered this in my red eye differential. Learn something new every day
They are less harmful than a bee sting. Much ado about nothing!
On the cornea even a beesting seems like a very big deal to me.
The best lesson about asset allocation that I learned in the past year is to include Social Security income and most annuity income in figuring overall allocation…and to count that income as bonds. The result for me is that, EXCLUSIVE of Soc Sec and annuities, my portfolio of 70% stocks and 30% bonds would be risky to the point of ridiculous (being as I’m two months from 71). But my other two nearly guaranteed income streams, I believe, make my allocations reasonable and defensible. Or do you disagree?
I disagree with your “best lesson.” I don’t do that and I don’t think most people should. Just subtract it from the amount you need your portfolio to produce.
I also disagree that a 70/30 portfolio is “ridiculous”. If you have the ability, desire, and/or need to take that kind of risk, there is a lot of good evidence suggesting it isn’t a bad idea. My parents are about your age though, live almost entirely off SS and a pension, and have a 50/50 portfolio. They’re happy with their performance and volatility so we’ve left it at 50/50 now for almost 15 years.
Thanks, WCI! All I’ve ever read in the financial/investing press is how little (to my way of thinking) one should have in stocks as age advances. (Prime example: subtract your age from 100 and that’s your allocation to equity.) I had an 85 equity/15 debt split pre-retirement, and I gradually slid to the present 70/30 post- retirement. I’m glad that’s not viewed as ridiculous.
I think aggressive is a better description for a 70/30 portfolio at age 70 than “ridiculous.” 150% equity is probably ridiculous.
It makes sense to look closely at many alternative assets and then to allocate them in such a way that you can properly diversify. But I especially like #9 “Does It Pass The EyeBall Test”. There are too many people that just get too excited about a financial product or idea and just jump in without proper research.
Thanks for the interesting article. A simple plan with which you won’t be tempted to tinker has a high chance of succeeding. Something like:
A 7 year CD ladder with the cash you will need in addition to social security and pension (if any) income.
Once a year, extend the CD ladder for a year by selling some of your simple portfolio. If the market has tanked, skip the ladder extension, but then extend back to 7 years when the market recovers.
Put the rest in a simple broad based, low cost fund (something like VT – you get the whole world and don’t have to do anything to rebalance).
Relax and enjoy your retirement.
Does a 7 year cd ladder beat inflation at this point?
2018 inflation 2.49%
7 year cd rate 1.8-2.15%
Seems like a losing strategy to me
Buying disability insurance is a losing strategy too, until the thing you’re insuring against happens.
Beating inflation isn’t the goal of every piece of your money is it? It isn’t with mine. With money needed soon the return of your money matters more than the return on your money.
No – certainly not. That said when it comes to money I need soon enough that I’m not trying to beat inflation, I would generally lean towards something where I have ready access to withdraw whatever I might need…
I think that’s what was being suggested with the CDs. It was just 7 years worth of withdrawals.
#4 hit home for me. 2020 goal simplify. When your 401-k administrator assists you in making a mutual fund selection and you present them with a two page 50+ fund current holdings…his response—are you kidding me you need to simplify!! Thanks for the article, lots to think about and good takeaway.
As a fairly new reader and relatively recent FIRE retiree (at 48yo) thanks for the great article. My wife and I have taken the approach of doing what we can to minimize the likelihood of needing to return to work. In doing so, we’ve essentially “bucketed” our funds into three categories:
Bucket 1 – Three years of expenses in a combination of cash and CD ladders. It’s a lot (about 18% of total portfolio) and very conservative but gives us the peace of mind to weather anything. To the extent necessary, we top this bucket off at the beginning of each year from dividends or capital gains from Bucket 2.
Bucket 2 – Non-retirement brokerage account at Vanguard which is split 80/20 between VBIAX (Balanced Index) and VGSLX (REIT Index). The gross value of this account equals about 6-7 years of expenses (on top of Bucket 1). As mentioned above, to the extent necessary, we top off Bucket 1 from this account. But, if there’s a major market decline we can wait it out if necessary before doing our top off.
Bucket 3 – Retirement accounts at Vanguard split 80/10/10 between VTSAX (Total Stock Market Index), VTIAX (Total International Index) and VVIAX (Value Index). This is a pretty aggressive allocation for the time being but we don’t plan on touching it for at least another 10 years. There’s essentially a lifetime of expenses in here for us. We do plan to scale back the aggressiveness of this bucket as we get closer to 59 and1/2.
Keep up the good work.
I kind of like bucket approaches, but in the end, it’s usually the same thing as a less aggressive asset allocation.
You’re definitely right in it being less aggressive overall. We’ve only in the last 6 mo’s or so (when I retired) gone less aggressive. That’s fine by us as until recently we were close to 100% stock + a small percentage of REIT’s. The only cash we had on hand was 3-6 mo’s of an emergency fund.
When it’s all combined we’re roughly:
US Stocks – 61%
Cash – 19%
Bonds – 9%
REIT’s – 6%
International Stock – 5%
Can a 70yr old retiree afford a 50% loss in equity and outlive his money? Most will never recover. SEQUENCE OF RISK!!!
From 2000-2019 a million dollars in sp500 with a 4% SWR would up with a 70% loss; 300k in 2019 and then what
Think about that when you retire!
LISTEN to BOGLE-who better to take advice from AGE IN BONDS!
Last I checked, 2000 and 2008 retirees were still doing just fine.