By Dr. Jim Dahle, WCI Founder
There are more than 400,000 insurance agents in this country, and almost all of them would love to sell you a whole life insurance policy. If you buy a policy with premiums of $40,000 per year, the commission would typically be somewhere between $20,000 and $44,000 for that agent. As you might imagine, that commission can be highly motivating, especially given the median insurance agent income of $49,840. To make matters worse, many of the worst policies offer the highest commissions. Unfortunately, the vast majority of policies sold are sold inappropriately and the vast majority of those selling it are salesmen masquerading as financial advisors.
As a result of this ridiculous conflict of interest, agents can often throw out some serious myths in an effort to persuade you to buy their product, which might explain the damning statistic that 80%+ of those who buy this product get rid of it prior to death and polls of actual real life doctors on this site and our Facebook group show that the vast majority of those who have purchased whole life policies regret their purchase. If this is all news to you, then go read Everything You Need to Know About Whole Life Insurance before continuing on with this post.

While most WCI FB group members have never purchased whole life insurance, of those who have, 76% regret it.

The numbers are similar but slightly lower in the ongoing poll on this site (which unlike the FB group permits voting to be done by those who sell these policies.)
Lots of people think I hate whole life insurance. I actually don't. I hate the way it is sold and those who sell it inappropriately. If you really understand how it works and still want it, then feel free to buy as much as you like. It really doesn't affect me one way or the other. But I'm sick of running into readers and listeners who DID NOT understand how it worked when they bought it, and once they do understand it, DO NOT want it.
How Whole Life Insurance Works
Whole Life Insurance can be set up in many different ways, but in general, you pay a monthly or annual premium for either a defined period of time, or until you die. The longer the period of time over which you pay the premiums, the lower the premiums. Whenever you die, your beneficiary gets the proceeds of the policy. Since every whole life policy is guaranteed to pay out if you just hold on to it to your death, the premiums are much higher than a comparable term life insurance policy.
A whole life insurance policy, like other types of permanent life insurance, is really a hybrid of insurance and investment. The policy accumulates cash value as the years go by. That cash value grows in a tax-protected manner, and you can even borrow the money in there tax-free (but not interest-free). Upon your death, whatever you borrowed (plus the interest) is taken out of the death benefit, and the rest is paid to your beneficiary. (You get the cash value or the death benefit, not both.)
This investment aspect allows those who sell whole life insurance to find all kinds of creative reasons you should buy it and creative ways to structure it. The most extreme advocates may even argue that you don't need ANY other financial products during your entire life since whole life insurance can apparently take care of all your needs including mortgages, consumer loans, insurance, investments, college savings, and retirement.
The problem is that for every use of whole life insurance, there is usually a better way to deal with that financial issue. This post is the 38 frequent myths about whole life insurance propagated by its advocates.
Myth #1 – Whole Life Is Great for Pre-Retirement Income Protection
Whole life insurance is not the best way to protect your income, term life insurance is. Before you retire, you can purchase inexpensive term life insurance to take care of your loved ones in the event of your untimely death. A 30-year level-premium term life insurance policy with a $1 Million face value bought on a healthy 30 year old runs $680 per year. A similar whole life policy will cost more than 10 times as much, $8,000-$10,000 per year. That is money that cannot be spent on mortgage payments or vacations, nor invested for retirement.
Myth #2 – Whole Life Is the Best Way to Get a Permanent Death Benefit
Whole life isn't the best way to get a permanent death benefit—guaranteed no-lapse universal life is. There are a select few people who need or want an insurance policy that will pay out at their death, whenever that may be. This can be useful for some unusual estate planning issues. However, there is a better product that provides this and is much less expensive than whole life insurance. It is called Guaranteed No-Lapse Universal Life Insurance. It does NOT accumulate any cash value but simply provides a life-long death benefit. It only costs half as much as whole life insurance, so you won't be surprised to learn that the agent's commission on this sale will be far lower.
Call me cynical, but I suspect that might be one of the reasons you've never heard of guaranteed no-lapse universal life. Whole life insurance provides a guaranteed death benefit that is PROJECTED (but not guaranteed) to grow slowly so that if you die at your life expectancy or later you'll leave behind a little more than the original policy death benefit.
Death Benefits and Inflation
A whole life policy I looked at recently projected the death benefit of a $1 Million policy, bought at 30, would be $3.17 Million at death at age 83. That sounds great, almost like an inflation protection of the death benefit. Except historical inflation is something like 3.1%. At 3.1%, $1 Million now would be the equivalent of $5.04 Million in 53 years. A whole life policy would be devastated by unexpected inflation, since the dividends are backed primarily by nominal bonds, whose values would be murdered in a high inflation environment.
Therefore whole life insurance is neither the best way to provide a guaranteed life-long nominal death benefit nor a guaranteed life-long real death benefit. So what is it good for? How about a guaranteed death benefit that might increase if the insurance company feels like increasing it? Would you be willing to pay premiums that are twice as high for that? I didn't think so.
Myth #3 – Whole Life Insurance Provides a Great Investment Return
Whole life isn't the best way to invest—traditional investments are. When you pay your whole life premiums part of the money goes toward buying insurance, part of it goes toward overhead and profit for the insurance company, and part of it goes toward the commission for the salesman. The rest then goes into the cash value portion of the policy.
Each year, the insurance company declares a dividend, and if there is $10,000 in the cash value portion and the dividend is 6%, then $600 gets credited to your cash value. The dividend is only applied to the cash value, not the entire premium paid, so the average dividend rate is in no way, shape, or form related to your actual return on the policy as an investment. In fact, the return on investment is generally negative for at least a decade. I recently analyzed a policy for a healthy 30-year-old male with a 53-year life expectancy. The guaranteed return on the cash value was less than 2% per year AFTER 5 DECADES.
Even if you use the insurance company's optimistic “projected” values, you're still looking at a return of less than 5%. In reality, you'll probably end up with a return of 3%-4%. Considering you have to hold on to this “investment” for 5 decades, that doesn't seem like much compensation. If you have decades to invest, it is far wiser to take more risk with your investments and earn a higher return. An investment in stocks or real estate is likely to provide a return over decades in the 7%-12% range. $100,000 invested for 50 years at 3% per year will grow into $438,000. If it grows at 9% instead, you'll end up with $7.4 Million, or 17 times as much money. The rate at which you compound your long-term investments matters, especially over long periods of time.
Myth #4 – Insurance Companies Are Great Investors
Some agents believe that insurance companies can somehow get investment returns that you or I cannot find elsewhere and pass those great returns on to their policy owners. It can be illuminating to look under the hood and see what is really in the portfolio of an insurance company. In 2016, insurance company assets were invested 67% in bonds (almost all in run-of-the-mill corporate and treasury bonds), 1% in preferred stock, 12% in common stock, 8% in mortgages, 1% in real estate, 4% in cash, 2% in loans to their policy owners, and about 5% in “other.” Thanks to the index fund revolution, an individual investor can buy nearly all that stuff for less than 10 basis points per year in expenses. Active management doesn't work any better for insurance companies than for mutual funds.
As you might expect, the returns on a portfolio composed primarily of treasury bonds (currently yielding 1%-2%) and corporate bonds (currently yielding 3%-4%) aren't particularly high. So where do dividends come from? Part comes from the return on the investment portfolio, part comes from the fees of those who surrendered their policies, and part comes from “mortality credits,” which is basically money they didn't have to pay out to beneficiaries because fewer people died than they planned for (i.e., you paid too much for the insurance portion of the policy in the first place due to state regulations). There are no magic investments that insurance companies can invest in that you cannot without the company. Every additional layer between you and the investment just increases expenses and lowers returns.
Myth #5 – Whole Life Is a Great Asset Class
There are lots of asset classes worth including in a diversified portfolio, but whole life isn't one of them. Insurance salesmen generally resort to this argument once they've realized they can't convince you that whole life is a great investment in and of itself. They say that if you mix it into a portfolio of stocks, bonds, and real estate that it will improve the overall portfolio. However, you can call anything you want an asset class. Horse manure can be an asset class, but that doesn't mean you should invest in it. Think of it this way. If I told you I had an asset class with the following characteristics:
- 50% front load the first year
- Surrender penalties that last for years
- Requires ongoing contributions for decades
- Difficult to rebalance with other asset classes
- Backed by the guarantees of a single company (and whatever you can get from a state guaranty association)
- Requires you to pay interest to get to your money
- Guaranteed negative returns for the first decade
- Low returns even if you hold it for decades
- Must be held for life to provide even a low investment return
- Excluded from the investment for poor health or dangerous hobbies
would you buy it? Of course not.
Myth #6 – Whole Life Is a Great Way to Save on Taxes
Whole life isn't the best way to lower your investment tax bill, retirement accounts are. Many agents like to tout the tax benefits of whole life insurance, often comparing it to a 401(k) or a Roth IRA. The cash value does grow in a tax-protected manner, the cash value can be borrowed tax-free, and proceeds from the policy at your death are income (although not estate) tax-free. So some whole life advocates suggest you use whole life insurance instead of a retirement account like a 401(k) or a Roth IRA. However, a 401(k) or Roth IRA not only provides MORE tax savings and allows you to invest in riskier investments that are likely to provide you a higher return, but you also don't have to borrow your own money, nor pay interest for the privilege of doing so.
I've posted previously about the 3 Ways a 401(k) Saves You on Taxes and on how Whole Life Insurance Is Not Like a Roth IRA. I've also posted about how tax-efficient investments in a Taxable Investing Account don't carry nearly the tax burden agents like to tell you they do. Are there tax benefits of investing in life insurance? Yes, but they are dramatically oversold.
Myth #7 – Whole Life Insurance Protects Your Money from Creditors
Insurance agents love to use this one on doctors, who can be paranoid about asset protection issues. However, they often don't mention (or perhaps even know) that asset protection laws are very state-specific. For example [2022], in Alabama, only $500 of whole life insurance cash value is protected from creditors, but 100% of the money in your 401(k) or IRA is protected. West Virginia only provides an $8,000 protection. South Carolina protects $4,000. New Hampshire doesn't provide any protection. Many states do provide 100% protection for whole life insurance cash value, but you probably ought to look up your state's specific laws before falling for this myth.
Myth #8 – You Need Whole Life for Estate Planning
Cash value life insurance has some great estate planning features that can be very useful. However, the vast majority of people, including doctors, don't need those features. The primary benefit of life insurance is that you get a bunch of income-tax free cash at your death. This can help with a lot of liquidity issues, such as ownership of expensive property or a private business. If you have two children that you want to share in your estate equally, and most of your estate is the family farm, they would either have to sell the farm, cut it in half, or have one buy out the other in order to share equally. However, if you also had a life insurance policy with the same value as the farm, one kid could get the farm and the other could get the insurance proceeds. Likewise, in the fortunate event that you have a very large estate (more than $5 Million for single folks in the federal tax code, but can be much less in some states), the life insurance proceeds can be used to pay the estate taxes. This would be useful even with a single heir to prevent him from selling a valuable property or business at fire sale prices in order to pay the tax bill.
Some folks also like to put life insurance inside an irrevocable trust to decrease the size of their estate and avoid estate taxes. While you can put simple taxable investments into the trust instead (and would likely come out ahead due to higher returns), trust tax rates can be quite high, putting serious drag on returns for tax-inefficient investments, not to mention the hassle factor. It's important to point out that it isn't the life insurance saving money on estate taxes, it's the fact that you're giving away your assets before you die by putting them into the trust.
However, the fact is that the vast majority of Americans, even physicians, and even including physicians with an “estate tax problem,” don't need whole life insurance to do effective estate planning. Most people will die without any estate tax burden. Of those whose estates will owe some estate taxes, the vast majority have liquid assets that can be used to pay the taxes. Even if you want to reduce the size of your estate to prevent estate taxes, you can easily do so without purchasing life insurance. You and your spouse can give $16,000 each [2022] to any heir in any given year without any estate/gift tax implications. As an example, if you had 4 kids and they each had 4 kids and all 20 heirs were married, that's 40 people. 40 x $16K x 2 = $1.28 Million per year that can be taken out of your estate without paying any estate/gift taxes. It won't take long to get underneath the estate tax limit at that rate, no insurance needed.
Myth #9 – Whole Life Is a Great Way to Pay for College
Some agents even go so far as to suggest you use a whole life policy to pay for your children's college. Can you do this? Of course. You simply take out policy loans and send that money to the university to pay tuition. But you're better off saving up for college using a good 529 for multiple reasons. First, you often get a state tax break by using a 529 that isn't available for whole life insurance. Second, you don't have to borrow money from your 529, you just withdraw it. No interest payments required. Last, but certainly not least, consider the time frame of college savings. Parents generally save for college over a period of 5-20 years. By investing that money aggressively, they can expect a return of 7%-10%. Whole life insurance has very poor returns for time periods of less than 20 years. In fact, many times the cash value return on your “investment” in whole life is negative for at least a decade. It's important to make sure your money works as hard as you do, and your money is on vacation for the first decade in a whole life policy. Whole life advocates will point out that if you died, the death benefit could still pay for Junior's college, but it is far cheaper to cover that risk with term life insurance.
Myth #10 – Whole Life Is a Luxury You Want
Insurance agents will occasionally fall back onto this argument when it has been pointed out that a client doesn't really have any kind of a need for a permanent death benefit. They admit that the client doesn't actually need whole life insurance. Then they try to sell it based on having it as a status symbol or luxury. “Sure, you don't need it, it's a luxury.” A luxury is by definition something you don't need. I prefer my luxuries to be something that I really enjoy. So before buying whole life insurance as a luxury, ask yourself, “What do I really enjoy?” If it is owning whole life insurance, fine, buy some. But I bet most of us would prefer a luxury such as a nice car, a cruise with the grandkids, or perhaps a donation to a favorite charity.
Myth #11 – Whole Life Lets You Spend Down Your Other Assets, Providing Valuable Flexibility in Retirement
Whole life isn't the best way to ensure you don't run out of money, annuitizing some of your assets is. Whole life isn't the best way to deal with the second to die issue, properly structuring pensions and annuities is. Whole life agents like to come up with retirement scenarios that make you feel like you have to own or at least want to own permanent life insurance, especially for a married couple. For example, they'll talk about a pension that only pays out until the working spouse died. Or they'll talk about annuitizing some portion of your assets based on the life of only one member of the couple. Then they'll suggest that the proceeds of the whole life policy be used for living expenses by the second to die spouse. There is no reason to use a whole life policy in this way. If you want your pension to last until you both die, then select that option. If you want your annuity to last until you both die, then choose that option. Yes, it will pay out at a slightly lower percentage, but the difference between payouts is less than the cost of a whole life insurance policy that would cover the loss of that pension. It simply isn't the right solution to the problem. Does whole life insurance provide some flexibility in retirement? Sure, but the cost for that flexibility is too high.
Myth #12 – Whole Life Is a Great Way to Buy Expensive Stuff
Whole life isn't the best way to buy expensive stuff, saving up for it is. There are some really creative insurance salesmen out there advocating for systems such as Bank on Yourself or Infinite Banking. The basic scheme is this: by structuring your policy appropriately with paid up additions, you get a lot of cash value into your policy in the early years, such that you break even in 3-4 years rather than 8-15 years. You also buy a policy that is “non-direct recognition.” This means that when you borrow from the policy, the insurance company continues to pay dividends on the amount that was in there before you borrowed it out, so the policy dividends essentially cancel out the interest payments due on the loan. Now, rather than going to your savings account or to a bank to borrow money when you need a car, a refrigerator, or an investment property, you borrow from your whole life policy at essentially no cost. Further, the cash value in the policy that you don't borrow will grow faster than the money in a savings bank.
So what's the problem? The problem is that you have to buy a whole life policy you don't need. You might break even sooner than you would with a traditional policy, but there are still several years of negative returns and in the long-term, the same low returns. Is it better to earn 4%-5% a year after 5 years or earn 1% a year starting in year 1? Well, for the first 6 or 7 years you're better off with the 1% a year savings account. Also, if interest rates go up from their historic lows, you're still locked in to this system for the rest of your life. It wasn't very long ago that I could get over 5% from a money market fund. It also seems to be very easy to finance a car at a dealership at extremely low interest rates. 0% or 1% are not uncommon. You're better off borrowing from them at 1% than from your policy at 5%. It's a similar issue with appliances and mortgages. You go through all this effort so you can borrow from yourself, then realize it's cheaper to borrow from someone else. Finally, if you don't need to make a purchase for 5 or 10 years, you've got time to invest in something likely to have a much higher return than a whole life policy. Are those who bank on themselves being scammed? Not necessarily, but they're generally oversold on the benefits of their scheme. Its advocates are primarily insurance agents looking to increase sales through creative marketing. Saving up is simply a better way to make big purchases than buying a whole life policy.
Myth #13 – Really Rich People or Businesses Buy Whole Life Insurance So You Should Too
Whole life advocates, particularly those who advocate using your policy as a bank, like to point out that lots of very wealthy people and lots of businesses (including banks) actually buy whole life insurance. While true, it is irrelevant for the typical person. Big businesses don't have access to the tax-saving retirement account options that a middle class individual does. Ultra-wealthy individuals have already maxed these out. When you have far more money than you can ever need, the return on your money doesn't matter as much. Bill Gates can afford to invest in something that provides returns of 2%-5% because he doesn't need his money to work very hard. That's simply not true for the vast majority of middle to upper class people, including doctors. As discussed above, ultra-wealthy people also have more use for the limited estate planning benefits and asset protection benefits of permanent life insurance. In short, the low returns inherent in whole life are much less of an issue for them than they are for you.
Myth #14 – You Should Buy Whole Life When You're Young
Whole life salesmen like to point out that whole life is a lot cheaper if you buy it when you're young. While it is true that the premiums are lower if you buy a policy at 25 than if you buy it at 55, once you take into account the time value of money and the fact that you'll pay the premiums for 3 extra decades, it isn't any better of an investment at a young age than at an older age. Actuaries are very intelligent people, and for a risk that is relatively easy to model, like death, they can price insurance quite efficiently.
Aside from the lower premiums, there are two other reasons why it seems better to buy it when you're young. First, that commission is spread out over more years, so it has less impact on your overall returns. But the alternative of not paying the commission at all is far more attractive. Second, it's possible that you will either become less healthy or take up some dangerous sport later in life. This is one of the serious downsides of using life insurance as an investment—not everyone can use it. Either they don't qualify for it at all, or the price of insurance is so high that the returns on the investment are even lower than they would otherwise be. I don't see that as a reason to buy it when you're young, I see it as a reason not to buy it at all. Can you imagine if Vanguard sent a paramedic out to your house to draw blood prior to letting you buy their S&P 500 fund?
Myth #15 – Waiver of Premium Riders Are a Good Way to Protect Your Retirement from Your Disability
Whole life insurance isn't the best way to protect your retirement income from your disability, disability insurance is. Recognizing that whole life insurance premiums are really expensive and would be difficult to make in the event of disability, the insurance companies began offering a rider that waived the premiums in the event of your disability. Sometimes you don't even appear to have to pay extra for this benefit. Those who fall for this tactic are missing a couple of points. First, guarantees are not free. Every guarantee costs you money in the form of a lower return, whether the insurance company charges extra for the guarantee or “bakes it into the policy” so it is hidden.
Second, disability insurance is complicated and the definition of disability is all important. Most doctors who want disability coverage spend a lot of money getting a really nice policy with a broad definition of disability including “own-occupation” coverage because they want to make sure the company is going to have to pay in the event of their disability. The riders sold on whole life policies aren't nearly as comprehensive and are far less likely to be paid in the many gray areas that disabilities often fall into. You will almost certainly be better off buying a bigger disability policy rather than a whole life waiver of premium rider. Your disability insurance may also offer a retirement protection rider. While these have issues as well (primarily in the way the benefit is paid out), they're better than trying to get your disability insurance from a whole life policy.
If you're planning an early retirement like I am, you may realize you don't need your disability coverage to protect your retirement contributions anyway, at least after a few years of heavy savings. Consider having a $750K portfolio at age 40. You figure you need $2 Million in today's dollars for retirement. You plan to save heavily so you can achieve that at age 50 and retire. What is the back-up plan if you get disabled and can't save all that money? Your disability insurance doesn't just pay to age 50. It pays to age 65. So you don't need your portfolio to cover those 15 years. You can also start getting Social Security payments by the time the disability payments run out. Since you don't have to touch your portfolio, it can continue to grow. If it grows at 5% after-inflation, by the time you hit age 65 it will be worth over $2.5 Million in today's dollars. Don't buy insurance that you don't need. But even before you have any kind of portfolio, the best way to protect your retirement savings is to buy MORE disability insurance, not to try to get it from a whole life policy. Even if you could use the extra coverage to provide your retirement portfolio, you need to be able to put it into an investment with a high return, which whole life is unlikely to provide. An aggressively invested taxable account is just fine since your main income if disabled, your disability insurance benefits, are tax-free.
Myth #16 – You Should Exchange Your Lousy Old Whole Life Policy for a Shiny New One
Since an agent gets a new commission every time he sells a new policy, even if he replaces an old one from the same company, he has a serious conflict of interest in making recommendations to you. I interact with lots of insurance agents on this blog, and none of them agree with the others about what a “properly-structured” whole life policy is. That means if you go to a second agent, he will almost surely tell you that there is a better way to do it. However, for it to be worthwhile to exchange one policy for another the original policy has to be absolutely horrible, especially after a couple of decades. The reason for this is that the poor returns on whole life insurance are concentrated into the early years. I took a look at a policy recently. This was set up as an investment with paid up additions for the first 25 years. It was the agent's best attempt at maximizing the returns of a policy. Here is how the annualized returns looked:
Guaranteed | Projected | |
First 10 years | -1.84% | 0.98% |
Next 15 years | 2.55% | 5.47% |
Next 25 years | 1.99% | 5.13% |
This demonstrates that the poor returns are highly concentrated in the early years. With this particular policy, the returns actually decrease after 25 years because that is when you stop making paid up additions. With a more traditional policy the third row would be slightly higher than the second row. But the moral of the story is that you should buy the “right policy” first, and even a crappy policy that is more than 10 years old is going to be better than a brand new better policy. This is also the reason that it can be a good idea to keep an older whole life policy, even if buying it in the first place was a mistake. It's also noteworthy to see how little risk the insurance company is actually taking, since it isn't even guaranteeing that your cash value will keep up with inflation.
Myth #17 – Whole Life Is the Only Way to Pass Money to Heirs Income Tax Free
Whole life isn't the only way to pass money to heirs income-tax free at your death. In fact, it isn't even the best way, a Roth IRA is. When you die, your heirs get an insurance death benefit that is free of income tax. What agents often fail to mention, is that just about everything your heirs get from you when you die is income tax free. Thanks to the step-up in basis at death, anything outside of a retirement account, including furniture, automobiles, stocks, cash, mutual funds, and real estate is all revalued on the day of your death. Since the basis is now the same as the value, there are no capital gains taxes due. Inheriting a retirement account can be even better, especially a Roth account where the taxes have already been paid. You can take all the money out the same year you inherit it and not pay any taxes at all. Or, you can “stretch it”, taking withdrawals gradually over decades until you die. Meanwhile, it continues to grow tax-free. You can stretch an inherited tax-deferred account too, but you do have to pay taxes on any money withdrawn from the account.
Myth #18 – With Whole Life, There Is No Way I Can Lose Money
People invest in whole life insurance because they like guarantees. The insurance company guarantees that you'll get a certain rate of growth on your investment and it guarantees a death benefit. The guarantees, however, aren't worth nearly as much as people often assume. For instance, the guaranteed scale of any whole life insurance policy guarantees that your money will grow slower than the historical rate of inflation, despite sticking with it for half a century. Before deciding to trust a single company with your life savings, you might want to consider what happens if it goes out of business. There are state insurance guarantee associations that will cover the cash value and death benefit of your policy, but how much will they really cover? You might be surprised how little it is. In my state, only $500K in death benefit and $200K in cash value is covered, NO MATTER HOW MANY POLICIES YOU OWN. Your state is probably similar. No wonder agents are always talking about the long-term viability of their insurance company. It really does matter! Now I don't think the risk of any given insurance company going out of business in any given year is very high, nor do I think a typical purchaser is likely to end up with exactly the guaranteed growth rate. But before buying, you should realize that investing in whole life insurance isn't the risk free proposition agents like to present it as.
Myth #19 – Life Insurance Should Not Be “Rented”
This one is pretty easy to see through, but you still see agents using it frequently. Since everyone “knows” that it is better to own a home than rent one, the agent says something like “You wouldn't rent your home for the rest of your life would you? So why would you rent your life insurance?” Basically, the agent is referring to the fact that if you use term insurance after age 60 or so, it becomes more and more expensive each year, just like renting a home. But unlike a home, you don't need life insurance after you become financially independent. When you only need a home for a year or two or three, it is a better idea to rent than to buy. When you only need life insurance for a decade or two or three, it is also a better idea to “rent” than to buy. The opportunity cost of “ownership” is simply too high.
Myth #20 – Banks Own Life Insurance So You Should Too
This is a frequent one heard from the Bank on Yourself/Infinite Banking crowd. An underpinning of this school of thought is that the greedy banks are taking over the world so you should only do your financial work through the trustworthy insurance companies. To be honest, I don't have massive distrust for either one of these industries. Both industries have mutually-owned options (mutual life insurance companies and credit unions) where, like Vanguard, the customers own the company. The agents like to point out that banks actually own whole life insurance as part of their “Tier One Capital,” the money used to determine if the bank is adequately capitalized or not. This is somehow to make you fear that the banks know something you don't, like the financial world is about to implode and any of those using banks instead of insurance companies for their financial needs are going to go broke. Tier One Capital is a measure of a bank's financial strength. Banks use less than 25% of their Tier One Capital to buy single premium whole or universal life insurance on a group of employees. The bank owns the policy and is the beneficiary. When the employee keels over, the bank gets the cash. The bank is buying the policy primarily for the death benefit, not because the return is particularly high.
Tier One Capital is highly regulated and it is difficult for a bank to include riskier assets such as common stock(aside from that of the bank, which makes up most of Tier One Capital) and REITs in its Tier One Capital. When you are stuck choosing between low-risk/low-return investments, then you can understand why a bank might consider something like cash value life insurance with part of that money. However, individual physician investors investing for retirement have fewer restrictions on their investment options for their retirement. Most of them have significant need for their retirement money to grow. The returns available with cash value life insurance generally are not high enough for them to reach their goals. Even so, consider what a bank does with most of its Tier One Capital—it buys the only stock it can, it's own. If whole life insurance was so awesome, you'd think the bank would use all of its Tier One reserves to buy it. In short, doctors aren't banks, so doing what banks do isn't necessarily smart. Tier One Capital is highly regulated and it is difficult for a bank to include riskier assets such as common stock.
Myth #21 – Corporate CEOs Own Whole Life Insurance So You Should Too
Agents, particularly of the Bank on Yourself type, love to point out that the golden parachutes for many highly-paid CEOs include cash value life insurance policies. However, just as the financial situation of a bank is dissimilar from that of a physician, so is the financial situation of a CEO making $10 Million a year different from that of a physician. When you're making a gazillion dollars a year, rate of return on your money becomes much less important and thus the benefits of whole life (asset protection, tax, estate planning, etc.) become relatively more important. It isn't that returns on whole life magically get better. Again, if you are in a position that you only need your long-term money to grow at 3%-5% nominal per year, then feel free to invest in whole life insurance. Most of us, however, need higher growth. Remember that a doctor making $200,000 per year and a CEO making $10 Million per year are in very different financial circumstances and what works fine for one will not necessarily work well for the other.
Myth #22 – Banks Failed During The Great Depression, but Insurance Companies Didn't
This myth again preys on the fears of a global economic meltdown. In 1933 there were two holidays. The first was a “Banking Holiday” in which the banks were closed for 10 days as sweeping regulatory changes took place. The second was an “Insurance Holiday” in which for a period of nearly six months you could neither surrender your cash value life insurance policies for cash, nor borrow against them. Aside from this holiday, 14% (63 companies) of life insurance companies actually DID fail during The Great Depression. In fact, if they would have actually marked to market the bonds and mortgages they held, they would have ALL been insolvent. Reforms were put in place during The Great Depression that fixed many of the problems leading to bank failures and the banking holiday. However, these reforms were never put in place for insurance companies.
Myth #23 – After-Tax, Whole Life Returns Are Better Than Bond Returns
This one usually goes like this. “If you can buy a bond yielding 5% and are in a 45% marginal tax bracket, the after-tax yield on that is just 2.75%. A whole life policy with a “tax-free” internal rate of return of 5% is better.” This is an apples to oranges comparison. What is the 1 year return on that whole life policy? 2.75% sounds a whole lot better to me than a -50%. Even at 10-20 years, the bond is still way ahead.
I wrote about a physician who was pleased with his 7% return on his whole life policy bought in 1983 (don't expect to see that again any time soon). Except that he could have bought a 30-year treasury that year yielding 10.5%. 10 years later, as his whole life policy is breaking even and interest rates have dropped, the bond purchaser has not only already more than doubled his money just from the coupon payments, but the capital gains on that bond added another 50% to his return. That investor would have done even better purchasing equities in 1983, the start of an 18 year bull market. A bond, which can be sold any day the market is open, simply cannot be compared in any fair manner to an insurance policy which must be held for life to have any decent kind of return. Besides, most physician investors can hold taxable bonds inside retirement accounts instead of a taxable account anyway. That retirement account not only provides for tax-protected growth like a whole life policy, but also a tax-rate arbitrage between your marginal rate at contribution and your effective rate at withdrawal, further boosting returns.
Even if your only choice is between buying bonds in a taxable account and buying whole life insurance, keep in mind that even at today's low interest rates you can still buy Vanguard's Long-Term Tax Exempt Muni Fund yielding 3.17% [2014]. The guaranteed return on whole life insurance cash value, held until your life expectancy, is about 2% and the projected return is only ~5%. Realistically, you should probably expect a return of 3%-4% over the long term on that policy. Of course, if you actually wish to cash out of that policy instead of borrowing from it (and paying interest for the right to borrow your own money), the earnings are just as taxable as any taxable bond fund. And if you want your money in a mere 10-20 years, you're going to come out way behind with the life insurance.
Now, if you really understand how whole life insurance works and you think its unique features outweigh its significant downsides, then feel free to run out and purchase as much as you like. It truly does not bother me. I do not make any money if you buy whole life, nor if you decide to buy something else. However, if you are like most, once you understand it, you won't buy it and in fact, if you already have, you'll probably be looking for the best way to get out of whole life insurance. Don't feel bad. 80% of those who purchase these policies surrender them prior to death, 36% within just five years. You've got to ask yourself why so many people who were apparently intending to hold this product for the next 40 or 50 years suddenly changed their mind. I'm sure it has nothing to do with it being inappropriately sold to the financially unsophisticated by insurance agents facing a terrible financial conflict of interest with their clients. Whole life insurance is a product made to be sold, not bought. It is a solution looking for a problem that exists for very few, if it exists at all.
Myth #24 – Whole Life Insurance Keeps Assets Off the FAFSA
This is one is merely misleading. The statement as it stands is true. The Free Application for Federal Student Aid (FAFSA) does NOT consider whole life insurance cash value as an asset of the student or the parents. The problem is, for the typical reader of this blog, that it doesn't matter. Your income alone will keep your child from qualifying for any need-based college financial aid. So if you buy a whole life policy for this reason, you're likely to be disappointed.
Myth #25 – Term Life Expires Without Paying Anything
Another misleading argument. I'm always surprised to see people fall for this line, but they do. Do you complain when you don't get to use your car insurance for any given six month period? How about when your house doesn't burn down? Or you don't get cancer and get to use your health insurance? Then why in the world would you complain that your term life insurance expires and you're still alive. Term life insurance is pure insurance. If you die, it pays. If you live, it doesn't. As a general rule, since on average insurance must cost more than it pays out (since insurance companies have both expenses and profits), you should insure against financial catastrophes. When it comes to death, the financial catastrophe is dying during your earning years, before you become financially independent. So that's the only time period you need to insure against. Some people only fall halfway for this argument, and buy return of premium term life insurance. The same principle applies, of course. You don't walk away empty-handed when your term life policy expires. You had insurance for the entire term, which is exactly what you needed.
Myth #26 – Whole Life Insurance Is the Perfect Investment
This outright lie comes from the true believers. They argue that whole life insurance is safe, liquid, tax-advantaged, creditor-proof, and offers a competitive return. These half-truths all add up to one big lie. Let's take them one at a time:
#1 Safe
Safe from the cash value going down, perhaps, but not safe from losing money. A huge percentage of whole life insurance purchasers lose money because they cancel the policy at some point in the first 5-15 years before they break even on their “investment.”
#2 Liquid
I guess it's more liquid than owning a website or a rental property, but it pales in comparison to the liquidity available in a savings account or a mutual fund that can be liquidated any day the market is open. Even inside retirement accounts, there is absolute liquidity after age 59 1/2, and fair liquidity even prior to that date. Most of the time with whole life insurance you don't even get your money, you just have the right to borrow against it at pre-set terms. You can get that with a HELOC.
#3 Tax-Advantaged
Few understand just how minor the tax advantages of whole life insurance are. There is no up-front deduction like a 401(k). Unlike a real investment, there are no capital gains rates if you surrender a policy with a gain and you cannot deduct the loss if you surrender it with a loss (the usual case). You don't get to use depreciation to reduce the tax burden of your income like with real estate. Instead of being able to withdraw the money tax-free like with a Roth IRA, you can only borrow against the policy, and that's tax-free but not interest-free, just like borrowing against your house, car, or mutual fund portfolio. Sure, you don't pay taxes on the “dividends,” but that's because they're actually a return of premium (i.e., you paid too much for the insurance). The only real tax break associated with life insurance is that the death benefit is tax-free. But that isn't any different from any other investment, where you get the step-up in basis at death. In addition, whole life can't be stretched like an IRA. The tax benefits, such as they are, are limited to a single generation.
#4 Creditor-Proof
Too few docs understand just how low the risk of needing this protection actually is. I calculate my risk of being successfully sued for an amount above policy limits at 1 in 10,000 per year. Maybe half that now that I'm practicing half-time. So should I be so unlucky as to be that one person, I would declare bankruptcy and be left only with protected assets. In my state, that's my retirement accounts, my spouse's assets, $40,000 in home equity, and whole life insurance cash value. Your state may or may not protect whole life insurance cash value. Please actually check if you are so paranoid to actually buy whole life insurance for this reason.
#5 Competitive Return
Are you kidding me? Competitive with what? Whole life insurance generally has a negative return for 5-15 years (sometimes more than 30 for really terrible policies). Even a good policy held for 5+ decades only guarantees a 2% return and projects a 5% return.
If I were going to draw up the perfect investment, it would definitely avoid the following characteristics of whole life insurance
- Guaranteed negative return for years
- Requirement to interact with and pay a commission to an insurance agent
- Requirement to give samples of body fluids and submit to a medical exam
- Requirement to answer pesky questions about my health
- Requirement to avoid risky activities
- Requirement to pay interest in order to use my own money
It only qualifies as an “okay” investment in certain very limited situations. It's not even close to a perfect one.
Myth #27 – Insurance Agents Are Just People
This is one of my favorites to see in any sort of discussion with an insurance agent about the merits of whole life insurance. It usually comes when I point out that my problem with whole life insurance isn't so much the product as the way in which it is sold. Obviously, many of them take that quite personally since they've dedicated their life and career to selling this product inappropriately. So they point out that there are bad doctors or that insurance agents are just people trying to make a living. I don't have a problem with the sales profession. I don't even have a problem with people earning commissions for selling stuff. Cindy gets paid on commission to sell ads right here at The White Coat Investor. But if you seek advice from Cindy about whether buying an ad at The White Coat Investor is a good idea for you, you're a fool. Insurance agents are just people and people respond to incentives. An insurance agent has a huge incentive to sell you a whole life policy. The commission on a policy is 50%-110% of the first year's premium. Now you know why he's trying so hard to sell you a big fat doctor policy.
Myth #28 – No 1099 Income with Whole Life
This was a new one to me. I thought I had heard every possible argument for buying a whole life policy until someone whipped this one out. How much trouble is it for you to deal with a 1099? It takes me about 30 seconds using Turbotax. Certainly not a reason to favor one investment over another. Remember not to let the tax tail wag the investment dog. Your goal isn't to minimize your taxes or maximize your tax-free income. It's to have the most money AFTER paying the taxes due.
Myth #29 – What Does The White Coat Investor Know? He's Just a Doctor, and Probably a Crappy One
Sometimes agents start with this argument, but frequently this is where they end, with ad hominem attacks. Sometimes it's phrased like one of these:
So, exactly how does being an ER doctor qualify you to give financial and insurance related advice?
Do everyone a favor and stick to studying medicine.
You’re young, a doctor and absolutely sure that you know everything.
Obviously, medicine has lots of problems and doctors don't know everything, but if the agent's best argument for whole life insurance is an ad hominem attack, that's a good sign that you should have stood up and walked out a long time ago.
Myth #30 – After Maxing Out a 401(k) and Roth IRA, Isn't Whole Life Insurance the Only Tax-Sheltered Option Left?
This is the wrong question to be asking, but the answer to it is still no. Just because it is the only option presented to you by an insurance agent, doesn't mean it is the only option. Other options for retirement savings include defined benefit/cash balance plans, an individual 401(k) for self-employment income, a spousal Roth IRA, your spouse's employer-provided accounts, and Health Savings Accounts (HSAs). In some ways doing Roth conversions and paying off debt is also tax-sheltered. But most importantly, there is no limit on investing in a non-qualified mutual fund account (where long-term gains and qualified dividends are somewhat sheltered from taxes) or in real estate (where income is sheltered by depreciation and capital gains can be deferred indefinitely by exchanging).
Obviously investing in whole life insurance compares better to investing in a taxable account than to a retirement account (where there is no comparison from a tax, investing, or in most states an asset protection standpoint). But the real problem with this argument is that it is focused entirely on the idea that any tax-advantaged investment is always better than any fully taxable investment. That simply isn't true. It also mixes up the idea of an investment and an account, two things that financially naïve doctors sometimes have a hard time telling apart. (Think of the accounts as different types of luggage and the investments as different types of clothing.) The real question to ask yourself when you hear this argument is “Where should I invest after maxing out my available retirement accounts?” The answer is a taxable, non-qualified account. Now you're left with the question of what long-term investment to invest in—tax-efficient mutual funds, real estate, or whole life insurance? It's pretty hard to really compare the merits of those three investments and end up choosing whole life insurance given its limitations and terrible returns previously discussed.
Myth #31 – The Estate Tax Exemption Could Go Down
The idea behind this argument is a rebuttal to the argument discussed in Myth #8. In summary, that argument is that you need whole life to avoid estate taxes, which is silly given the vast majority of doctors won't owe any federal estate taxes. The next step is for the agent to argue “Well, the estate tax exemption might be decreased.” Well, I suppose that's true. Congress can change any law they want any time they want. But buying insurance or investing based on what could happen seems foolhardy. I mean, it is probably just as likely that the estate tax is eliminated as the exemption reduced. It seems to me the best way to plan for the future is to project current law forward, since most laws aren't going to be significantly changed. If they are, you can make changes at that point. At any rate, it isn't like whole life insurance is some magic panacea to eliminate estate taxes. The only reason whole life insurance reduces your estate taxes is by making sure you have less money due to its low returns! The thing that reduces the size of your estate is the irrevocable trust you put the insurance into, and you don't even have to put insurance into it if you don't want to.
Myth #32 – Whole Life Insurance Protects from Nursing Home Creditors
This one was particularly fun to debunk. Apparently, the idea here is to not pay for your own nursing home care somehow by purchasing whole life insurance instead of mutual funds. I'm not sure exactly how those envisioning this process think it will go. Maybe they think the nursing home doesn't ask for money until after you die or something, which is, of course, completely silly. But I think what they're referring to is the ability to spend down your assets to Medicaid levels, get Medicaid to pay for the nursing home, and still be able to leave a huge inheritance to your heirs because Medicaid somehow doesn't look at the value of your whole life insurance.
The whole process of Medicaid planning is a little distasteful to me to be honest. The idea is to hide someone's assets from the state so that the heirs can have them, foisting the cost of caring for the owner of those assets on to the public. But even assuming that you have no ethical problem with doing this, it's unlikely to work very well. Medicaid is state law, so it varies by state, but in Utah, a person can have up to $2,000 in countable assets and still qualify for Medicaid. Above that level, no Medicaid until you spend down to that level. If there is a spouse, the spouse can keep 100% of assets up to $24,720 and 50% of assets up to $123,600. Above that, Medicaid won't pay for the nursing home. Non-countable assets in Utah include:
- Your home if your spouse lives in it
- The value of one vehicle (including a Tesla)
- Funds set aside for a funeral
- Household and personal items
- Cash value of your life insurance policies IF the total face value of all policies is < $1500
So I guess if you want to hide money from Medicaid in Utah, then you could go buy a $1,000 whole life policy. Most states have similar policies regarding cash value life insurance. Even if there were a state with a higher limit than Utah, this seems silly for someone who should spend her entire retirement as a multimillionaire to be making plans to spend down to Medicaid levels for nursing home care. A far better plan to stiff your fellow Utah taxpayer (assuming you have a spouse who doesn't need care) is to upgrade your house and your car.
Myth #33 – WCI Doesn't Understand the Opportunity Cost of Borrowing Against Whole Life Insurance and Investing Elsewhere
This statement has been made without explanation, but the idea isn't that complicated (nor misunderstood by WCI). You can borrow against the cash value in your whole life policy and use that money for whatever you want. You can spend it or you can invest it. Lots of whole life fans use fun phrases like “velocity of money” to describe buying a whole life policy, borrowing the money out, and investing it in something else. The really talented salesmen get you to invest it (along with any home equity they can get you to borrow out) in yet another insurance product.
Is there a cost to not maximally leveraging your life in this manner? Sure, anytime you can borrow at a lower rate and earn at a higher rate you'll come out ahead. But leverage works both ways, and the risk is not insignificant. What is not often mentioned by those advocating doing this is the opportunity cost of plunking money into a low return life insurance policy and buying unneeded death benefit instead of a higher returning investment. For instance, consider two options. You can invest $10K a year into an investment that returns 10% per year or you can buy a whole life policy that won't break even for 10 years. After 10 years, the first investment is worth $175K and the whole life policy only has a cash value of $100K. That's a $75K opportunity cost that apparently the “insurance agent doesn't understand.”
With a properly structured policy, you can break even in perhaps five years (maximizing the use of Paid-Up Additions), and using the combination of wash loans (interest rate to borrow against the policy = dividend rate of the policy) and a non-direct recognition policy, this idea becomes “not terrible.” You still have the opportunity cost of the first few years in the policy, but that is balanced out by a higher return on your cash in later years. I have discussed “Bank on Yourself” or “Infinite Banking” previously in detail if you are interested. It's not an insane use of whole life insurance, but it isn't for me. If you really understand how it works (it's going to take working through a lot of hype to do so) and want to do it, go for it.
Myth #34 – Buy Whole Life Insurance for the Long Term Care Rider
In recent years, insurance companies are adding on a Long Term Care rider to whole life insurance policies (and universal life policies and annuities) and agents are using the fear of expensive long term care to sell them. I find this appalling. Not only are you mixing insurance and investing, but you're now combining two different types of insurance policies with investing. Given the track record of insurance companies with long term care, I think most of my readers should strive to get a place where they can self-insure the risk of long term care, but even if they cannot, I'd prefer a simpler long term care policy on its own than mixing it with an otherwise unnecessary and expensive insurance policy.
The benefit of buying this as a rider of a whole life policy is that the premiums of the policy are guaranteed—you don't have the risk of the insurer upping the premiums like you do with a long term care policy or upping the cost of the underlying insurance like you do with a universal life policy. Those guarantees are worth something.
Remember we're not talking about just an accelerated death benefit. This is just another way of self-insuring long-term care, but with a lower return on the investments used to pay for it. You're really buying two policies combined into one. But there's no free lunch here. You're either paying more for the combined policy, or you're getting less of something, usually death benefit. Most likely, you're also paying for a life insurance policy you don't need or wouldn't otherwise buy. That death benefit isn't free. The reason life insurance companies stopped selling long term care insurance and started selling these hybrid policies is that their actuaries were convinced they are more likely to make money that way. That profit has to come from you, there is no other possible source.
If you do decide you wish to purchase some sort of long term care insurance policy, it is entirely possible that a hybrid product is right for you, but just like health and disability insurance, the devil is in the details. Read the fine print and be sure you know what guarantees the insurance company is actually providing. Know about what is covered, what isn't covered, and whether benefits are indexed to inflation or capped. Or better yet, live like a resident for 2-5 years out of residency so you'll be rich enough to self-insure this risk and never have to make this decision.
Myth #35 – We Don't Say Put All Your Money into Whole Life Insurance
This argument is simply bizarre, but used by agents once the prospective buyer has refused to buy the massive policy they were offered at first. A small commission is better than no commission, I guess. Of course, you shouldn't put all your money into whole life insurance, that's a straw man argument. Also, if buying a policy is a bad idea, you're going to be better off if you buy a small one than a big one. But that's hardly a reason to buy a policy in the first place. Like any asset class, if it isn't a good idea to put a significant chunk of your portfolio into it, it probably isn't a good idea to put any of your money into it.
Myth #36 – Yes, We Have a Few Bad Eggs but Most of Us Are Ethical
This argument is used when I point out that literally hundreds or even thousands of my readers have been sold clearly inappropriate insurance policies. The problem is there are two options to explain this phenomenon. The first is that these agents are unethical. The second is that they're incompetent. Given the statistic that 80% of policies are surrendered prior to death and 76% of the docs I've surveyed regret their purchase, this is hardly just a “Few Bad Eggs” doing this. It's an industry-wide problem.
Myth #37 – You Should Buy Insurance to Preserve Insurability
This one is used to sell insurance to people that don't even have a need for insurance. The idea is to prey upon their fear of the combined risk of needing insurance AND not being able to purchase it. One example would be a 25-year-old single doc with no kids. No life insurance need here. “But what if you get diabetes before you get married and have kids? You should buy the policy now.” Uhhhh . . .no.
First, you may never have dependents.
Second, if you do need it, you'll probably be able to buy it at that time at a reasonable price.
Third, if you do become less insurable, you will still likely have options for some insurance through an employer or other groups.
Fourth, even if you become uninsurable through anyone, the risks must be multiplied. For example, let's say there's a 5% risk of you becoming uninsurable before you have a real insurance need. And the risk of you dying before reaching financial independence is 5%. To get your true risk of a financial catastrophe, you must multiple those risks. 5% x 5% = 0.25%. That is a 1 in 400 chance. Life is risky. You can't eliminate every possibility of something bad happening to you and even if you could, that wouldn't be a wise use of your money. Wait to buy insurance until you have a need for that insurance.
This argument is often even extended to children. If you're buying life insurance from the same company that sells you baby food, you're probably doing something wrong. Now, if you could buy a lot of future insurability for that kid very, very cheaply, that might be something to consider. Unfortunately, you can't really do that for several reasons:
First, you have to actually buy unneeded insurance. That newborn likely won't have any need at all for life insurance for 25-30 years.
Second, you're not pre-buying the policy that kid will need. You can't buy the right to buy a 30-year level term policy at age 30. You have to buy a whole life insurance policy. Which means you're also paying for insurance that will be unnecessary on the far end of life too, after the kid has become financially independent.
Third, you generally can't buy enough insurance, or even enough future insurability, to actually meet any sort of realistic life insurance need. Most of these infant policies are only $10K or so. That's basically a burial policy, and as sad as it would be to bury your kid, it's not a financial risk my readers should need to insure against. (I've even heard the argument that you should buy the policy so you can take a few months off work because you'll be too distraught to work, but that's what an emergency fund is for.) Even if you find a policy that allows you to purchase future insurability for a larger policy, let's say $500K, that's not going to mean much in 30 years when the life insurance need actually shows up for the first time, much less in 50 years when the kid is actually reasonably likely to die. At 3% inflation, $500K today will only be worth $200K in 30 years and $109K in 50 years. Better than nothing, but you went to all this effort and expense to preserve insurability and your kid still ended up with inadequate life insurance coverage.
Myth #38 – Whole Life Insurance Is a Great Investment to Put in Your Defined Benefit/Cash Balance Plan
I had this one pitched to me by a doc turned financial advisor of all people. The argument was that you could buy whole life with pre-tax dollars and then if you wanted to pull the policy out of the defined benefit plan you could do so. He felt this was an “advanced technique” for “high net worth folks.” I was flabbergasted. It was such a stupid idea I couldn't believe it. A defined benefit/cash balance plan already provides tax protected growth and asset protection, two reasons frequently cited to buy whole life insurance. You're now paying twice for those benefits. To make matters worse, should you die while this policy is in the defined benefit plan, part of the death benefit becomes taxable, negating another usual advantage of life insurance—a completely tax-free death benefit. But the main reason why this is such a stupid idea is when it comes time to close the defined benefit plan, which is usually done every 5-10 years or so in order to roll it into an IRA. At that point, you have to do one of two things.
First, you can surrender the policy and move the cash surrender value into the IRA. But what is the investment return on the first 5-10 years of a whole life policy? You break even if you're lucky. Not exactly a great investment for that time period, especially compared to a typical conservative mix of stocks and bonds.
Second, you can purchase the policy from the plan. Of course, you have to do that with AFTER-TAX dollars. So while you initially bought it with the pre-tax dollars in the plan, eventually you're going to have to cough up after-tax dollars for the policy. And then what are you left with? A whole life policy you probably neither want nor need and perhaps even with associated premiums you have to make each year. Some deal!
Myth #39 – More Money Is Passed Through Life Insurance
This myth showed up in a comment on a post on this blog. I thought it was particularly creative, especially with the way it was combined with Myth #8 (You Need Whole Life to Help For Estate Planning) and Myth #25 (Term Life Expires Without Paying Anything):
More money is passed through life insurance than any other way. I’ve seen too many people out live term which is throwing money away and need life insurance and are at that time in life uninsurable. Life is really used well in estate and trust planning.
Surprisingly, this was the first time I had heard this argument. Being financially literate, of course I was able to immediately debunk it, but I suppose somebody might fall for it. There are two problems with this statement. First, it may not even be true. I looked and looked and looked for a study that showed what assets are actually inherited, without finding anything that actually quantified it. So if there is a study that actually says this, I suspect it is paid for by a life insurance company. Maybe it's true, maybe it's not, but I suspect it isn't given how few people have life insurance in force at their death. I suspect more money is left behind in houses than anything else. I mean, look at the net worth of people by age. Among retirees, the 50th percentile for net worth is $210K. That's got to be mostly house. The 80th percentile is $696K. That's about the average price of a house in my upper middle class neighborhood in a flyover state.
That jives with the average estate left behind at death:
- The average retired adult who dies in their 60s leaves behind $296K in net wealth,
- $313K in their 70s, $315K in their 80s
- $283K in their 90s
It seems very unlikely that the main inheritance most people receive is the proceeds of a life insurance policy given those numbers. How many retirees even carry life insurance? According to this, about 65% of those 65+. But 47% of those own less than $100K of life insurance. It is a well known statistic that fewer than 1% of term life insurance policies pay out. It isn't that the insurance companies aren't good for the money, it's just that people out live the term. A lesser known statistic is that 80%-90% of whole life insurance policies don't pay out either. They're surrendered prior to death, often at a loss since 1/3 of policies are surrendered in the first 5 years and over half in the first 10 years.
I did manage to find some UK data, however, which suggests my hunch (that people inherit more in real estate than life insurance proceeds) is correct.
As you can see, more than half of inherited assets are housing assets, so clearly more assets cannot be passed as life insurance than anything else.
Perhaps the agent wasn't referring to the median inheritance though. Perhaps he was referring to the total amount of dollars passed to heirs. I could find no data to support nor refute that notion.
Second, even if the statement is true, it is irrelevant. Given that THE PURPOSE of life insurance is to pass assets on to heirs, that's hardly an argument to buy life insurance for some reason besides the death benefit. As I've always said, if you want a life long death benefit that gradually increases throughout your life, then a whole life insurance policy is a great way to get that (although a guaranteed universal life policy can provide a level life long death benefit at about half the price and is probably a better solution for those who really need a permanent death benefit.) Bear in mind that you are likely to leave a larger inheritance by investing in stocks and real estate than buying life insurance due to the higher returns, and those assets, just like life insurance, provide a tax-free inheritance to your heirs. Life insurance only provides a larger inheritance if you die well before your life expectancy.
Myth #40 – You Get an Investment and Life Insurance
This one confuses a lot of people and they get really mad when they realize how whole life insurance works. They mistakenly believe that they get a death benefit for their heirs AND a separate “cash value” investment type account that they can use themselves or leave for their heirs. What they do not realize is these two pots of money are one and the same. That which you use for yourself does not get passed on to your heirs. When they discover this fact, they feel like the insurance company is stealing a bunch of money from them and their heirs.
In reality, when you borrow against your life insurance policy, you are borrowing against your death benefit. When you die, your heirs get the death benefit minus any outstanding loans. The amount of the outstanding loans, of course, can never be more than the cash surrender value of the policy, which gradually grows to an amount very close to the death benefit at your life expectancy. So really the cash value just tells you how much of the death benefit you can borrow at any time. You can either borrow this pot of money (death benefit/cash value/surrender value) and spend it yourself, surrender the policy and spend the money, die and leave the money to your heirs, or some combination of the above. But there isn't two pots of money. There isn't a $400K cash value and a $1M death benefit. There is just a $1M death benefit. If you spend $400K of it, your heirs only get $600K of it. So you don't get an investment AND life insurance, you get an investment OR life insurance.
Summing It Up
There you go. Forty reasons for buying whole life insurance debunked. Don't worry; the agents who sell this stuff will come up with more. Just hang out in the comments section over the next year or two and you can watch. Whole life insurance is a product designed to be sold, not bought and the only way to win an argument with an agent trying to sell it to you is to stand up and walk away. As Upton Sinclair famously said, “It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends on his not understanding it.” Maybe it should be called Whole LIE Insurance.
Whole life insurance is a terrible investment if you don't hold on to it to your death. Since the vast majority of people surrender their policies prior to death, it is a terrible investment for the vast majority of those who purchase it. If you want to invest in it, then you need to place a very high value on its unique aspects and not mind it's serious downsides.
The ideal purchaser of whole life insurance should:
- Need or desire a guaranteed, but possibly slowly increasing, life-long death benefit,
- Understand that the guarantee/contract essentially relies on the insurance company staying in business for as long as he lives for any policy of reasonable size,
- Live in a state that protects 100% of the cash value from creditors,
- Have some estate planning liquidity issues,
- Be in excellent health,
- Pursue no dangerous hobbies,
- Not mind having low returns on his investment despite holding it for decades,
- Have serious philosophical aversion to using traditional financing resources such as banks and credit unions (or simply just saving up for what you want to buy),
- Have already maxed out all available retirement accounts including backdoor Roth IRAs and HSAs, and
- Be willing to hold on to the policy until death no matter what changes in his financial life in the future.
The fact is that only a tiny percentage of the population, far smaller than the number of people who have been sold these policies historically, meets all or even most of these criteria. Whole life insurance remains a product designed to be sold, not bought.
Agree? Disagree? Comment below! Please reference which “myth” you're referring to in your comment and keep comments civil and on topic. Ad hominem attacks will be deleted.
[This updated post was originally published as a series from 2013-2019.]
Your articles are very persuasive. I have invested two years into my whole-life policy ($10,000 in total premiums). Can you comment on how one should effectively surrender their policy? Is there a time to do it for maximum cash value (end of year, shortly before the next premium renewal?) or perhaps there is a tax-efficient way to collect the surrender value? Thanks for all your wonderful insight.
Taxes on this won’t be an issue, since you still have less in cash value than you paid in premiums. The best time to cancel would be as soon as possible, since that would minimize your opportunity cost. Make sure you have adequate term insurance in place prior to doing so.
Becky- There will be no tax issues because your surrender value with be lower than your cost basis. If you are currently in year 3, then you are at a point where the contract cash value increase could equal new premium. If you pay annual premiums, you will get “un earned” premium back, so it doesn’t really matter when you cancel.
There are only two ways you can loose money now.
1. Cancel policy now for a loss
2. You can loose money in future from the perspective that you could have done better with your 5K in premium minus term premiums and the TVOM on those term premiums. It is impossible to know if this is true or false until 30 years from now when you look back. Anything else will just be an assumption presented as fact…the people that recommend WL or recommend Investments are both guilty of these assumptions.
It might be impossible to know, but it is highly unlikely she will come out behind over decades buying term and investing the difference. Opportunity cost is a very real loss. The premiums paid are water under the bridge. She’ll get part of them back and pay the rest as “stupid tax” for making a poor financial decision. I’ve been there.
Great website. Great discussion as well. Thank you!!!
how about viewing whole life as a bank. compared to stock portfolio, it definitely is a worst deal. expense, commissions etc.
i have seen the typical internal rate is 3-5% (heard 4.2% to be exact over the past century!) and its tax free. So if I put cash lying around into life insurance (instead of bond), it seems like a good idea. The money becomes my fixed asset allocation. In addition if I really need cash I can withdraw from this “bank” and put money back in to grow tax free.
Please guide me since I want to decide on this soon.
I discuss this use of whole life insurance here:
https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/a-twist-on-whole-life-insurance/
and also as myth # 12 here:
https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/debunking-the-myths-of-whole-life-insurance-part-3/
While 4% sounds lots better than the 1% you are getting on your savings right now, it also involves a lot more downsides that in my view make it an inferior way to save money. For example, it doesn’t take me a decade to break even on my bank account. Nor do I have to be healthy and not have any dangerous hobbies. Nor do I need to pay interest to borrow my own money. Nor does my bank account collapse in a tax mess if I borrow out too much money. There are lots of people out there convinced that banking on yourself and infinite banking is the way to go who basically don’t use any other financial products. WL is their savings plan, their investing plan, their insurance plan, their estate plan, their asset protection plan etc. However, I see it as inferior for all of those uses compared to readily available alternatives. For example, while comparing the 4% long-term return on a whole life policy to a 1% bank account makes it look pretty good, if you compare it to another tax free alternative such as long-term municipal bond funds available from Vanguard, you’ll see that you can get a 3-4% tax-free yield right now, without waiting a decade to break even. And that’s in a time of historically low interest rates.
So, in short, I recommend against using whole life as part of your asset allocation or as your savings plan. But if done correctly, that certainly isn’t the worst financial error I see people make.
Thanks for your explanation.
a) Can you pls give an example – what you mean Break-even. Is that when the cash value becomes equal to all the money you put in, ie when the interest of money compensates for all commissions etc.
b) pay interest to borrow your own money. Its a good point. but don’t u put the money back in (whatever hole you were in). then this goes back to growing tax-free. if i borrow from bank then i have to pay interest on it and never recover it.
b) I agree with you that WL for everything (saving, investing, insurance, estate etc) is not a good option. In my personal situation I have exhausted all options to the hilt – backdoor roth ira, 401k, 529. nothing else is left. hence i am attracted towards WL. is there any place where WL works for high income/high asset families.
I’m not sure why people feel they have “exhausted all options” and then reach for cash value life insurance as though it is somehow on par with a 401K, Roth IRA, 529 etc. The tax benefits aren’t even close. If you’d rather fund a 529 than whole life, keep in mind you and your spouse can fund up to 5 years per child. So with 4 kids, that’s $14K*2*5*4= $560K. But at any rate, what the heck is wrong with investing in a taxable account? You can buy real estate. You can buy index funds with a 2% yield, nearly zero turnover, and the entire yield is qualified dividends/LTCG. They’re very tax efficient. Don’t even want to pay that much in taxes? Fill the 401K/IRA etc with your stock funds and put muni bond funds in taxable. I just don’t find WL to be a particularly attractive investment. You ask “does it work?” Well, yes, it works. You put your money in, you leave it there, and 5 decades later you’ve had a return of 2-5% on that money. That just seems like a terrible return for money I tied up for two thirds of my life. I guess if that kind of a return is attractive to you, then sure, buy yourself some whole life. Do what you can to improve returns (paid up additions, pay annually etc) and go for it. But realize you can’t change your mind about this in 5, 10, or even 20 years and expect any kind of a decent return out of it.
My two issues with borrowing from a life insurance policy is that you first have to buy a life insurance policy you wouldn’t otherwise buy and second that you’re borrowing for stuff a physician ought to just pay cash for. I mean, let’s say you want a new car. What’s that run? $20K, $30K, perhaps $50K if you want something really nice. How long does it take a physician earning $30K a month to just save that $20K up in his checking account to pay cash? A couple of months? What’s the point of buying whole life insurance to somehow facilitate that process? Whole life is like a solution looking for a problem. I see a solution, but I don’t actually have a problem that solution will fix.
When I think of break even, I think “How long until the cash value equals the premiums paid?” In my bank account, that occurs on day 1. In a typical whole life policy, that occurs at some point in years 10-15, longer if you consider any kind of reasonable opportunity cost. Even in a policy designed for “banking on yourself”, you’re still looking at a period of 4-5 years at best.
Anyway, here’s the deal. You apparently have a very high income. You’re apparently maximizing out all available tax-protected accounts. The truth is it doesn’t matter what you do with this money you’re talking about putting into a whole life policy. You could invest it in the market. You could buy some real estate. You could buy a whole life policy. You could buy a boat. You’re going to be fine no matter what you do with that money, so do whatever you want with it. If you want to “bank on yourself”, then go for it. The more you believe in it, the bigger the policy you can buy. Like I said, there are far dumber things people do with money. But if you decide to do this, realize you have committed to do it for the rest of your life. Backing out of permanent life insurance policies almost always makes them a terrible “deal.” You’ve got to hold it til death for it to work for mediocre returns.
On the other hand, if you’re struggling to put 20% of your income toward retirement, your kids’ college funds aren’t quite up to snuff, or you actually need your money to grow at a reasonable rate of 5% real or more in order to retire someday, then buying whole life insurance isn’t the solution to your problems. If you’ve got money coming out of your ears and can’t figure out anything to do with it and value the features of whole life more than a decent return on your investment, then go ahead and toss a small fraction of your money into insurance you don’t actually need. But people in that financial situation don’t seem to have a need for a whole life policy they can borrow from in my book.
Thank you so much for your detailed response. fyi, I don’t have money coming out of my ears but I do manage to build assets by not investing in bad places. So please don’t mind if I probe a little further
a) You are absolutely right about bond index fund. I saw the Vang bond muni long term had return ~6% since inception (1977). I would guess the life ins companies put money into non-muni long term and get more return but then they have more expenses etc. they gain some more because of some expired terms and ppl cancelling their WL. maybe a wash. or maybe they get a return of 4.2% and make sure they are never negative to give people the allusion that they are ultra safe and better than bank.
b) the WL being sold to me asked me to put in ~12.5K for 11years and DB of 300K. So assuming DB grows at the 4.2% rate I reach some 435K after 30years.(I get the same value if I assume 5% rate in muni bonds and invest the difference between WL and term).The guy was saying that when my wife gets this money (after I die), there is a spousal paid up insurance option. Do you know what that is…it seemed you get much more output then pure 435K. It does become attractive then.
Remember when looking at illustrations that there are usually two columns. One is the guaranteed column. The long term returns on those these days seem to be ~ 2%. The other is the projected column, which basically takes the most recent dividend paid by the insurance company and assumes it will be that rate forever. Your return is likely to be somewhere between those numbers. So when you throw out “4.2%” I assume you’re using projected numbers.
Comparisons look better for whole life when the agent assumes you actually need/want some life insurance. If you’re purely looking at it as an investment, that life insurance is less valuable. So I run my comparisons without including any value at all on the death benefit or subtracting the cost of comparable term insurance. Especially at older ages when term gets more expensive that can make a huge difference.
At any rate, when you compare whole life insurance as an investment to expected returns for any portfolio of stocks and bonds reasonable for that period of time, your return is going to be lower. That’s just the way math works. So don’t buy it as an investment. You need to want/desire some other feature of it that you consider valuable.
I think a 4.2% rate of growth on the death benefit is very optimistic. I wouldn’t plan on that. Maybe 2%, and remember that the guarantee is 0%.
I’m not sure what a “spousal paid up insurance option” entails. Sounds like a good question for the guy selling it to you. Google says this about it:
Spouse’s Paid-Up Insurance Purchase Option (SPPO)4: Should you die, this rider gives your spouse, provided he/she is the beneficiary of your policy (or family member in New York), the right to purchase a new paid-up life insurance policy on his or her life, without providing evidence of insurability. The benefits? The SPPO rider may serve to insure someone who is otherwise uninsurable and can be an effective estate planning tool by helping to protect beneficiaries and providing funds to help pay estate taxes after both individuals die. This rider is included in most New York Life policies at no additional cost.
Hope that helps. Good luck with your decision. Remember the guy selling you this policy is highly incentivized to do so and is likely to minimize the downsides and maximize the upsides when discussing it with you.
When looking at the guaranteed column of a life insurance policy, you must also consider the guarantees of a mutual fund.
Mutual fund advertisements that include performance numbers must also include a legend that contains the maximum sales charge. So when considering a mutual fund ask yourself, “What are the guaranteed returns along with the max sales charges?” The ask yourself, “Could I lose all my principal and still have to pay max charges? The answer is, “Yes, you can!”
I’m not a fan of whole life, more index universal life, but at least these products do come with guarantees, and will illustrate a worse case scenario.
As a requirement of FINRA rules, Mutual Fund companies must disclose the maximum sales charge imposed on purchases or the maximum deferred sales charge, as stated in the company’s prospectus. In addition, they must disclose the total annual fund operating expense ratio, gross of any fee waivers or expense reimbursements, as stated in the fee table of the company’s prospectus. This rule applies to any communication with and to the public.
Most life insurance illustrations provide this when a premium is established and the guaranteed column shows a “Doomsday scenario,” which is not impossible, but rather highly improbable. When buying a mutual fund ask for the projected guaranteed growth along with the max fees and admin expense of the amount you are considering placing into a mutual fund.
That’s a poor argument. If a mutual fund raises its fees, you can go to another one, essentially at no cost if in a tax-protected account. If a whole life policy raises its fees, you’re stuck either paying them or paying another commission for an exchange.
I see the option of SPPO being useful if you die old and your beneficiary doesn’t need all of the proceeds of the life insurance. They can buy insurance regardless of their health based on their original age. Example: You buy a policy at age 35 and your spouse is also 35. If you die at 90, the contract says your wife can take some or all of the death benefit and buy a policy on herself at her age 35 and her health when policy was originally issued. This will create a MEC. To disclose the downsides, there could be a premium cost. Generally the companies that offer as a free rider will only allow the new policy to be issued at attained age.
It sounds to me like you are considering Guardian’s DuoGuard Rider – correct?
Hi Jim. We engaged in some friendly discussion related to the merits of whole life insurance on a different post, and you directed me to this one. So I thought I would share my thoughts here. The first thing I should mention is that my company represents more than just life insurance. We represent what you call “traditional investments” that also involve stocks, bonds, etc. My objective in this post is to complete the picture of whole life insurance in any areas that I feel may only be considering a portion of it. I should also mention that I appreciate the fact that you’re willing to entertain other perspectives on your site. Here we go…
Myth #1 – I presume what you’re talking about is protecting pre-retirement income in the event of an unexpected death. Term insurance works great for this, but only if the death occurs during the term. It is not uncommon for individuals to let their policies lapse when the term expires because the premium increases substantially. Should the death occur thereafter, there is no protection at all. In fairness, I don’t have statistics to support how often this happens, but I do know a little something about business. Pay attention to radio, TV and magazines and you’ll see that the most commonly advertised type of life insurance is term insurance. The question you have to ask yourself is why this is the case. Are the insurers advertising it because it’s what’s best for you or because it’s what’s most profitable to them? My experience tells me that companies advertise their most profitable products, which would suggest then that the vast majority of term policies never pay a benefit and the premiums for those policies have a cool 100% profit margin. Also, simply comparing term and whole life on the basis of cost is a bit narrow if you ask me, since there are other features associated with whole life that don’t exist on term. Making this comparison on the basis of cost alone would be like comparing a BMW to a bicycle. Both are modes of transportation, but have substantially different costs. Since the bike is cheaper, I should just buy that.
Myth #2 – I think it’s a stretch to say that few people need or want a permanent death benefit. I would think the majority of people would want to leave as much wealth as possible to their heirs. The question simply becomes how to do it. On to Guaranteed No-Lapse Universal Life (GNUL), and let’s use the example from Myth #1. If the premium on a $1 million whole life policy is $8,000 – $10,000 and GNUL has a premium equal to ½ of that, then we can safely assume a $4,000 – $5,000 annual premium. Who is going to commit this type of cash flow to an asset that they can never use because it has no value until they die? Furthermore, these policies rely heavily on an actuarial practice known as “lapse-supported pricing.” What this means is that profitability for the insurer and protection for the policyholder are gambled on an expected lapse rate, meaning the insurer actuarially calculates a percentage policies they expect will be discontinued during the policyholders lifetime. Profits from those policies are re-distributed so that retained policyholders guarantees can be honored and the insurer can maintain a profit.
Myth #3 – Traditional investments are not void of cost. Internal expenses go to pay for overhead and profit for the investment company, as well as commission when applicable. I should add that traditional investments are also not required to disclose all of their internal expenses, which creates an enormous misconception in the marketplace. One example of this is that expenses related to the buying and selling of securities within a mutual fund or index fund do not get reported and are not netted out of the rate of return calculation. You are correct when you explain dividends, but not correct about the negative return for at least a decade. While it does take time for the cash value to recoup the cost of the insurance that exists above and beyond the cash value, it much more often occurs well before the 10th year. The “guaranteed” values on a life insurance illustration are exactly that, the minimum guarantee. These assume that a dividend is never paid at any point in the life of the policy. Many companies exist that have consistently paid dividends of at least 6% (yes, of the cash value, not the total premium) every year dating back well into the early 20th century. This has persisted even through The Great Depression, The Tech Bubble and The Financial Crisis of 2008. And in times of higher interest rates, dividend rates are typically higher as well, and have exceeded 10% in those environments. In total, a whole life insurance policy, illustrated today (at historically low interest rates I might add), for a healthy 30 year old has an internal rate of return over 5% using current dividends (which are historically low) and of 2.5% using the minimum guarantee. Furthermore, these internal rates of return are stated net of all fees and expenses, which traditional investment rates of return simply do not do.
Myth #4 – I don’t have much to say here as I don’t believe insurance companies have access to securities that individuals don’t. Simply put, I view the managers of insurance company general accounts as highly educated and skilled bond fund managers. That’s about it. Yes, there is more in the account than just bonds, but I don’t consider that particularly relevant. However, what I believe to be relevant is that there is more to investing in bonds than just the yield on those bonds. Bond values fluctuate with changes in the current interest rate environment and can also generate a rate of return. To characterize a bond investments as only having value in terms of the yield would be to create an incomplete picture. The last thing that I want to mention is that many people operate under a misconception of how rates of return work in the market. If you understand the difference between an arithmetic and a geometric average, then this will come easy to you. Simply put, there is a mathematical difference between an average return and a compound equivalent rate of return. A compound equivalent rate of return is what most people think they’re being given when they hear about an average rate. That rate is essentially equal to the rate I would have had to earn every single year with my investment in order to start with the amount of money I started with and have what I have now. An average is much different. For example, if I earn 40% in one year and lose 30% the next, what’s my average return? It’s 5% (40% – 30% / 2 years). However when we apply this to money, the results are substantially different. If I have $1,000, and I earn 40% in year 1, I end up with $1,400. If I then lose 30% in year 2, I’m left with $980. So, while my average return was positive, I actually lost money. Calculating returns in this way underweights the impact of the negative years a traditional investment may experience, and therefore a compound equivalent rate of return on the market is always lower than the average return. The reason I bring this up is that most people lean on the average return of the market when making a comparison between a traditional investment and whole life insurance. To do this would be comparing apples to oranges, since insurance reports internal rate of return as a compound equivalent and traditional investments do not.
1) I agree you should just buy the bike. It’s a money printing fountain of youth according to Mr. Money Mustache. Perhaps companies advertise term because that’s actually a good product that people really need. I agree it is bad to not have insurance when you need insurance, thus the reason I recommend a term policy that covers you until you become financially independent. I suppose it is possible for the term to end before you become financially independent if you can’t make or follow a financial plan. I suppose it is also possible that some people may not become financially independent ever and always have someone depending on their income. Those people should buy guaranteed no lapse universal, not whole life.
2) I don’t know why you think that’s a stretch. You don’t need whole life insurance to leave money behind to your heirs. In fact, you’re likely to leave more money by investing in something with a better return.
3) Are you seriously suggesting that expenses on investments like Vanguard’s Total Stock Market Index Fund (expense ratio 5 basis points) are comparable to those in any whole life insurance policy? I suppose you can say you’ll recoup your costs at any point you like. It’s a free world. However, my personal experience owning a whole life policy is that I was still well underwater 7 years into the policy. Most of the illustrations I look at are pretty similar. But so what if it is 8 years instead of 10? It still sucks. If you think whole life insurance is an awesome investment, go invest in it. It’s a free world. But you might want to be aware that very few people who don’t sell whole life insurance for a living share your opinion. And they’re going to be pissed when they realize you’ve sold them a pig in a poke.
4) It turns out it is much smarter to just buy all the bonds than to try to manage a bond portfolio actively. The literature is pretty clear on this. I agree you need to use geometric returns and that volatility of returns is in general a bad thing. But I’d still rather have a volatile investment that has a geometric return of 8% than a non-volatile investment that has a geometric return of 4%.
I know this is a fun, “friendly” discussion for you. But realize if I seem a little impatient that I’ve already had this discussion with whole life insurance salesmen about 30 times in the comments sections of various posts on this site about whole life insurance over the last 3 years. You’re not saying anything that the other agents haven’t already said 10 times. If you’ve got something new, great, submit a guest post. But I think this topic has already been looked at from just about every possible angle already on this site. If someone wants a very low-return investment they must hold until death that has some interesting tax, estate planning, death benefit, and asset protection features, then they can buy whole life insurance. But it turns out that very few people, once they understand how whole life works, actually want it.
SGC is so dishonest when he mentions mutual funds with hidden fees when it pretty much violates SEC rules. Everything you need to know is in the prospectus. How hard is it to read it online?
Wasn’t this what Bogle argued in his book? That things like turnover aren’t included in the expense ratio? You could go digging for them but how do you accurately calculate them?
Turnover is low enough in a total market fund that it can be ignored. At any rate, performance is given after all expenses, including turnover related ones.
I bought a $50k conversion policy after losing benefits on a premium waiver policy when I retired on disability. Premium is about $500 per quarter, I am 3 quarters in and have been studying my policy and determined that it doesn’t provide an increasing benefit, just the $50k and is not considered paid up until 45 years(age 99) of premiums which is almost $90k paid for 50k talk about being underwater. There is provision for cash value about 50% of premium paid after about year 5,or reduced paid up policy. After year 6 until about year 15 I could have paid up policy at about $2k less then paid, after that point the reduced amount gets smaller compared to premium paid, eg year 20 $40k in premiums, $32,500 reduced benefit $7,500 less than premiums.
Is this typical, most of the above comments seem to point out growing face amount? I have health issues that make it unlikely to buy decent term, and lowered mortality rate. Would it make sense to pay until I build up some RPU protection, and have the face benefit if I die early, then convert to paid up before the difference gets out of balance? It seems that would give some face value coverage for a time and some reduced coverage later.
White Coat, I wish you would quit bashing insurance agents for getting a 50%, one time, commission on a W/L policy, that is a one time payment(plus a meager renewal for service work) versus a life time of fees paid to a broker on an investment(and not everyone pays only .005% some pay 2.5%!), or a new first year commission on a term policy every three to five years for those who write only term insurance (do an LOC on that.) A.L. Williams became a Billionaire selling term insurance(replacing stable W/L policies with cash value with high priced term insurance and investments that lost money. Another issue I have is that you continuously lump W/L insurance into a comparison with equities investing, any investment person or life insurance agent knows that W/L should not be sold as a replacement for investing (there has to be a long term need for the insurance,and make no mistake with the current and future financial condition of our country most doctors will have estate tax issues),life insurance is a long term savings vehicle with stable long term growth in the 5/6% range period tax free. Most doctors I have worked with can invest and still find money to add life insurance to their portfolio and any investment person should agree that a portfolio should not be “all in” the casino looking to get a linear 8% annual return, there should be some balance of guaranteed vehicles included in the portfolio. Do you think every doctor should be 100% invested in the market? Really? I am sure you can understand that you can get an average rate of return of 8% or even 20% or more over a period of time and lose all your money. If you don’t know how that works I will show you how that happens. It really seems that there is a lot of venom in your typing concerning,W/L insurance and I think that would go away if you understood that investing and W/L can and should co-exist in the same portfolio. I have shown many doctors over the past 32 years how to use their W/L policy to their benefit during some of the down turns in the stock market (W/L is a wonderful leveraging tool)….and there have been several downturns just look back at history on that. One other thing and I will let you tear me a new one, as they say. If insurance agents are the ones that make all the money in the financial business and the stock brokers don’t make very much at all, like is portrayed in investing circles, why is it that is seems the investing guys are the ones that go to prison the most, when is the last time that you saw a W/L insurance agent (who isn’t equities licensed)go to jail for bilking billions from unsuspecting clients/investors? Thanks, White Coat, for letting me have my say.
1) I’m not going to quit bashing insurance agents for selling ridiculously high commissioned insurance products inappropriately. You may start your own website and argue how those are “fair payments for a great product.” I’m also not going to quit bashing stock brokers and mutual fund salesmen for selling ridiculously high commissioned investment products inappropriately (as if there is an appropriate use). Those guys can start their own website too. It might be a one-time $50K payment, but that’s a heckuva lotta money for what is usually an inappropriate product. Every day (including today) I hear from a doc who bought this stuff for the wrong reason. I don’t think I’m winning this battle to talk docs out of giving agents thousands of dollars for a crappy investment.
2) Just because somebody sells crappy investment products and crappy term life policies doesn’t make it okay to sell crappy whole life policies (or even “good” whole life policies.) I advocate people buy inexpensive term, inexpensive investments, and avoid whole life entirely. This approach works great for the vast majority.
3) If you’re going to tie your money up for 50 years (which is what you are doing when you buy a cash value life insurance policy since everyone agrees it is a terrible product when surrendered prior to death), then it is appropriate to take significant market risk with that money. That means equities, real estate etc. So yes, for money you don’t need for 50 years, 100% equities is a fine approach. Certainly 100% bonds (which would provide similar returns to a whole life policy held for the long term) would be completely inappropriate.
4) I disagree that most doctors will have estate tax issues. How about the 58 year old who emailed me the other day who has a net worth of $200K? Do you suppose he and his wife will die with $10K+ indexed to inflation. I hardly think so. But you know what? They each own a whole life policy. The truth is that almost no docs will have a Federal estate tax issue, and few will have a State estate tax issue. I dealt with this one already in this series in Myth # 8.
5) Life insurance is NOT “a long term savings vehicle with stable long term growth in the 5/6% range period tax free.” You could call it a long term savings vehicle with long term growth guaranteed at 2% (less than inflation) and perhaps getting as high as 5%, but probably in the 3-4% range given current interest rates, that can be borrowed tax, but not interest free that also happens to be coupled with an expensive insurance policy you almost surely don’t need. That would be much more accurate. Myth # 3 covers this.
6) If you can’t see the difference between investing in stocks and going to a casino, I can see why you think investing in insurance policies is a good idea. That’s Myth # 3.
7) I disagree that whole life and “investing” SHOULD co-exist in the same portfolio. Whole life is not an attractive asset class. I just posted on this today. That’s Myth # 5. It’s not venom. It’s just facts. Since you and your fellow agents apparently won’t give them given how many docs own these policies inappropriately, I will. Then people can make an informed decision. It just so happens that when people are informed, they don’t actually want whole life insurance.
8) It doesn’t surprise me to learn that you have “shown many doctors over the past 32 years how to use their W/L policy to their benefit.” I’ll bet you spend hours every day doing this to doctors. That’s why I put so much effort into this website, to protect doctors from your misguided efforts. Don’t expect that change anytime soon.
I hope that wasn’t too big of a new one, but your arguments are exactly the reason this post was written. Most doctors don’t have the financial sophistication to see through your sales techniques. Your lengthy post is a great example of the typical sales approach used.
White Coat quote from above “Perhaps companies advertise term because that’s actually a good product that people really need.” Actually insurance companies sell term insurance because it is the most profitable insurance for the company and the most expensive policy the consumer can buy. In a study done by Penn State many years ago the found that there was less than a one percent chance that a term policy would ever pay a death benefit for the consumer who purchased it. This is due to the ever increasing cost and that most people out live most term policies even 20 and 30 year term policies. If you add lost opportunity cost to the premiums paid into a term policy that lapses prior to death the cost is staggering and the money could have been better spent on a permanent policy. You virtually never hear ads for W/L life insurance but you constantly hear ads for term….that is because term is sold like a commodity and makes the company a lot of money while W/L carries the lowest margin of any product in the financial industry. So do YOU want to own what the insurance company makes the most on or the least on? I understand the need for term, it has it’s place, it is for a specific term (it is right in the name)but using is as an insurance plan for your entire life is ill advised, that is not a specific term, unless you know exactly when you are going to die. If you don’t then you have a permanent insurance issue because as a doctor you are probably going to be very financial successful (at least the doctors I work with are and that leads to needing a life insurance product to be able to pass on your estate and not allow it to go to the government. I don’t know if you have noticed but we don’t create generational wealth anymore like we used to, the reason is that we transfer our wealth unknowingly and unnecessarily during our life times buy making financial mistakes like paying more tax than we should and making purchases that cost us money like term insurance and we never recapture these costs like they do in the banking industry (no White Coat I am not a member of Bank on Yourself although I think you should take their $100,000 challenge and publish the results if you are up to the challenge)we are only taught to do things that take wealth away from us, we are never taught how to get the wealth back and spend it again. The financial institutions and the government confiscate our wealth before we can pass it on the next generation. That is where the leveraging ability and the guaranteed death benefit of a W/L policy helps the doctor and the doctors children or charities more than any financial product ever developed. But you have yo know how it works, and know how to use it….unfortunately the education on this is very lacking in this country.
While I’d rather spend my time doing something other than arguing with whole life insurance salesmen one after another on the internet, you have posted some misinformation that needs to be corrected.
1) Term is the cheapest policy you can buy, especially when considering opportunity cost. A 30 year old can expect to pay something like $550 a year for a 30 year $1 Million level premium policy. A $1 Million whole life policy will be about $10K a year. If that extra $9500 per year is invested in something like stocks or real estate that makes 8% a year instead of the 4% a year you can expect from WL, then the opportunity cost after 30 years is about $608K. Buy term/invest the difference is without doubt the approach that is likely to lead to the greatest amount of money. Anyone who argues otherwise probably sells whole life insurance for a living.
2) I think it is very unlikely that WL carries the lowest profit margin of all policies given that 80%+ of those who buy it surrender it prior to death. In general, commoditized products (like term life) carry the lowest profit margins. If you have data to the contrary, I’d be interested in seeing it.
3) The goal with insurance is to NOT need it. Of course no one wants their term policy to pay out. Just like they don’t want their health insurance, fire insurance, auto insurance, or disability insurance to pay out. I’m perfectly fine paying insurance premiums for 10 or 15 more years until I become financially independent. That’ll be a total of about $10K, and it’s $10K well spent. I’d spend $20-30K or more in whole life insurance in a single year to get the same amount of coverage. This issue is addressed in Myth # 1.
4) I agree that using term life insurance for your entire life is a bad idea. I think you should insure only until you become financially independent. You don’t need to know when you’re going to die. You just need a general idea of when you’re going to be financially independent.
5) You may not be aware but you can pay estate taxes using traditional investments. You don’t need life insurance proceeds to pay that bill. The current married estate tax limit is something like $10.3 Million this year, and it is indexed to inflation. If a physician makes 5% real on his investments for 25 years prior to retirement, then manages it so well that he dies with that entire nest egg intact and having grown with inflation throughout his retirement (rather than the much more likely scenario of spending down or giving away at least some of it), how much money would he have to invest each year to end up with more than $10.3 Million? The answer is $132,000 per year. Now, your clients may fit into that scenario, but after speaking with hundreds of doctors about their finances both online and in person over the last decade, I can assure you that the vast majority are not putting that much money toward retirement each year, and if they are, they don’t plan to do so for 25 years. They simply don’t need $10 Million to retire on. Besides, it is so easy to avoid estate taxes by giving money away prior to death using trusts and gift exclusions, or at death to charity, that it is really simply a result of poor planning that any physician’s estate ends up paying estate taxes. How do life insurance proceeds fit in? With liquidity issues. So if there is a farm or a small business that can’t be liquidated, and insufficient liquid assets to pay the estate taxes, then life insurance can be useful. But that’s an awfully rare situation for a doctor, especially given the average physician income of $200K.
And no, I won’t be spending any time talking with Pamela Yellen. I think Allan Roth spent enough time with her already. http://www.cbsnews.com/news/bestselling-books-financial-promises-dont-add-up/
I’ve written already about why Bank on Yourself isn’t such a hot idea. https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/a-twist-on-whole-life-insurance/ I also covered it in Myth # 12 here: https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/debunking-the-myths-of-whole-life-insurance-part-3/
“The financial institutions and the government confiscate our wealth before we can pass it on the next generation. That is where the leveraging ability and the guaranteed death benefit of a W/L policy helps the doctor and the doctors children or charities more than any financial product ever developed.” –You really have bought into this stuff hook, line, and sinker, haven’t you? You really believe that WL is the best financial product ever developed for doctors? Wow.
You again lump ALL W/L products together and call them crappy. Remember when you answer a question that has always or never in it it is usually wrong. You generalize way too much on issues you do not understand. If you knew how good W/L policies actually worked you would not make the statements you do. The more INFORMED people are the more they want W/L to work with their investments. I’m just saying. Interesting blog, you are a sharp tongued fast typist…but you need education on good insurance products.
Don’t worry, I get educated once or twice a week when whole life insurance salesmen stop by like you have. Thank you for demonstrating to any readers who get this far into the comments section how these discussions with agents usually go. I see from your website that you’re a “LEAP” practitioner. You probably aren’t interested in my opinion of that, but I suspect others reading these comments might be wondering why you are such a believer in whole life, so here is a link:
https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/lifetime-economic-acceleration-process-leap-a-review/
I suspect we’re not going to agree about much with regards to whole life insurance, but as long as you remain civil, you may continue to post all you like.
Disclosure, I specialize in medical professionals. However, I’m not interested in taking on new clients from this site.
Whitecoat, your disdain for financial professionals is loud and clear and I think warranted. However, I do feel that there is a bit of hubris as well in regards to some of your views. I’ve learned in my career that it is not about me, it is about the clients. They are all different and all have different needs and desires and it is my job to advise but ultimately work in their interest. If they want whole life, they want whole life.
I have old time doctors tell me that they have whole life policies in their Keogh plans and that their colleagues thought he was crazy. However, after 2008, he is as happy as can be and his colleagues think he was not that crazy (I did not sell this policy, was way before my time). Others are just comfortable with it because that is what their parents had. Nothing is perfect, it is what people are comfortable with or want. I don’t convince people of anything (though I have made that and other mistakes in my career and most likely make some more).
There are two assertions I would like to challenge, rewriting and using guaranteed values in an in-force illustration. I completely agree that rewriting just for the sake of commission is wrong, though I have had doctors rewrite with me just because they liked me as an advisor and wanted to give me business. I made sure that they at least had slightly better value.
There have been three Commissioners Standard and Ordinaries (CSOs). The last one was 2001. As people live longer, the cost of insurance goes down. Also, life insurance has price breaks with higher face amounts.
You rail against fees and costs so I’m sure you can appreciate the effects of lower cost on permanent life insurance products. Secondly, insurance companies are constantly drafting new products. Third, there are numerous companies as well and they all price different demographics and risk differently.
I always ask for an in force illustration for new and existing clients and compare them against what is available today. If they have numerous policies, I run an in force and aggregate cash value (1035) and face amount to see if they can perform better than how they are currently performing. I even run in forces on term as well as GUL policies.
At times it is amazing how well another option outperforms current options (I do not inflate numbers doing this). At times my clients are shocked that their policies will not hold up regardless of how much money they put in given federal guidelines. Other times I can assure my clients what they have is the best performing option giving current products available.
Using guaranteed values can be very dangerous and is a “trick” that some agents use to scare people into rewriting policies. Guaranteed values is the maximum an insurance company can charge with the minimum return or dividend. I am not aware of an insurance company that has done that as of yet and if anyone is aware of this scenario I would love to review it. The Guaranteed charges in a many cases will make it appear that a policy will lapse much sooner than it really will scaring people into rewriting a policy when it is really not needed. The reality is that the policy “may” be in jeopardy between guaranteed and current charges and most likely closer to current charges.
This reply is not specific to just whole life.
Please note doctors want cheap financial products & services and expensive BMWs and wonder why they are broke at the end of their career.
Disclosure, I specialize in medical professionals. However, I’m not interested in taking on new clients from this site.
Whitecoat, I don’t know if you are familiar with the Fantastic 51 from Morningstar. If not, it may be of interest to you. It supports your affinity toward Vanguard funds.
Please note doctors want cheap financial products & services and expensive BMWs and wonder why the are broke at the end of their career.
I can’t figure out why your comments keep getting held for moderation. Perhaps because they all start and end the same way?
You may be interested in this article about Morningstar ratings:
http://fiduciarynews.com/2013/01/morningstar-star-ratings-do-they-or-dont-they-predict/
I can’t imagine their “fantastic 51” is any better than their star system, and as near as I can tell, mostly just a marketing device used by American Funds.
I wish I would have found this website 5 years ago. I was sold whole life under the guise of it being a solid foundation for long term wealth accumulation, as well as providing asset protection in the form of a life insurance policy. Four years into it, I am going to cancel the policy and take the loss. I’m being offered a universal life policy for the same coverage, at a significantly lower premium. I am also looking at 20 year level term coverage. My concern with the level term is that when it ends, I will still have kids in college. I am thinking about getting some universal life to cover me after the age of 58. Your opinions on this.
In general, the best strategy is to buy term until the period of time when you become financially independent. If that time is less than age 65-70 or so, you’ll be better off. If you won’t be financially independent by then, it’s possible a permanent policy like a guaranteed no-lapse universal life or whole life will be right for you.
Disclosure, I specialize in medical professionals. However, I’m not interested in taking on new clients from this site.
Whitecoat, this is an interesting site but I must say I feel a sense of “jack of all trades master of none” with you and this site. This post is buried deep in this thread so I doubt it will get read by anyone but you for which it is intended. I do read this site to try and understand my target market of physicians and dentists and I will say that I think it has improved my abilities to service this community. But I have to wade through a lot of emotion baggage on this site as well as hubris and one size fits all thinking.
I think that for “some” of the “general” population of physicians you may be doing a disservice. your last post of “If you won’t be financially independent by then, it’s possible a permanent policy like a guaranteed no-lapse universal life or whole life will be right for you” in my opinion is really a half baked answer and is very irresponsible. Note, I don’t sell much whole life and this post is not about whole life.
That being said, my partner and I reviewed an in-force on a whole life policy of an Anesthesiologist yesterday. 4 years into a 1 million face 10 pay, $30K+ premium a year. Doc makes $450K a year. we asked why he purchased the policy, not married, no kids etc. He wanted insurance to secure underwriting and a simple place to park “some” base cash long term with similar rates to a CD in terms of returns. We pointed out that even though dividends were 7+% he was only get an IRR of 2-4% over the life of the product. He was fine with that. He knew exactly what he had purchased and we recommended base on that he keep it. We check rewriting to other types of policies just in case something jumped out. With surrenders, nothing really performed “much” better even with high assumptions.
You have no fiduciary responsibility to anyone on this site. You have no licenses to jeopardize. I have 450 docs just in my call back que, many immediate, many in a couple of years when they finish residency or fellowship. They are all different with different goals, desires, hopes, needs, appetite for risk and most importantly, human shortcomings (spend too much, save to little, procrastinate too long, think they know it all).
You have a very one size fits all approach, basically “your” size. That is not how this industry works when done properly. I get that you are intelligent but what most doctors fail to recognize and what is very apparent with you as well is that as smart as docs think they are, they are emotional beings. I feel that your emotions dangerously sway doctors to a way of thinking or being influenced that “could” be detrimental to some and negative to many due to the “one size fits all mentality” that is pervasive on this site.
At times I do sense objectivity and level headedness that give this site a sense of schizophrenia. The negative part is that it is very Susan Orman/Rush Limbaugh in nature.
I had a dentist say to me once. I am destined to do great things in dentistry. This statement blew me away. He told me he constantly read dental books and learned about new procedures after Work. I never heard a dentist speak this way. My wife had kidney failure and the first time we met the nephrologist he said “I looked at your chart & labs last night at 12 and again this morning at 6am. Regardless of what happened to my wife, I felt that we had the right doctor.
I can guarantee you that your “friend” that sold you front loaded funds and a whole life policy did a lot less damage than many doctors out there with their pill mills and other heinous deeds. I have yet to meet a broke doctor who was that way due to a whole life policy and front end mutual funds. This site is very sparse on the real reason many doctors are in such dire financial situations and it is not Obama care, brokers/advisors, student loans or many of the other excuses out there.
There are only 24 hours in a day. I suspect you will cash out with this site more handsomely than you will as an ER doc. However, would I really want to go to an ER doc that spends so much time on other pursuits? Reality is that most patients have no other choice and are left ignorant of who is working on them any way.
From the other end of the spectrum, do I really want to get my financial advice from someone who really has no fiduciary responsibility (of course we can debate who in my industry has fiduciary responsibility) or commitment to the financial industry? How objective can you be when you do not have individual clients and really have no true experience in individual case work and see things through your own perspective as opposed to taking an objective view through the perspective of each individual and family?
Hope you take this in the spirit in which it was intended. Again, I have gained insight and improved as an advisor through this site.
Please note doctors want cheap financial products & services and expensive BMWs and wonder why they are broke at the end of their career.
That was a lengthy comment. You seem very worried about my ability to maintain a website and practice medicine in a safe and competent manner. Maybe I should quit volunteering at church, with the Scouts, and with a youth climbing program and quit going on vacation so much (that’s where I am as I type this). How can I possibly pull all that off? Well, I start by not watching any TV, at all. You might try it.
While I suppose “cashing out with this site” is always a possibility (if someone offers me $2M+ I’m walking today dear readers) 95% of my income comes from clinical medicine, just like my readers. At usual valuation rates, this site is probably only worth $100K right now, and I’m certainly not going to sell it for that.
I do agree that docs are not broke due to buying whole life and loaded mutual funds. But they may be working 5 years longer than they otherwise would. I have an upcoming post on the 10 most important financial things for docs, and neither of those are on it.
I view this website as allowing other docs to focus more on medicine by getting their finances in order. This will benefit millions of patients, like your wife.
Last, I’m not sure most ER docs consider “jack of all trades” a derogatory comment.
Splendid response.
I had no idea where Jason was going with that one.
You must really face some ugly ad hominem attacks.
Opposition in all things…
Disclosure, I specialize in medical professionals. However, I’m not interested in taking on new clients from this site.
You missed my point, probably due to the length of my post. Suitable recommendations are based on understanding clients. You must agree that you wield some influence through this site. Some of your comments to specific doctors regarding products and strategies are very limited in understanding a clients profile, risk tolerance, etc. and may have long term impacts that you think are positive but may not be. With power/influence comes responsibility. Your advice is free, however I would suggest that fitting in advice during breaks in you busy schedule may not fully address someone’s needs who may take what you have to say seriously and run with it.
I do think you’ve done a great job in addressing a need with doctors. Based on your site, I’ve met with my boss and CIOs to try and address things in my community to better serve doctors. I’ve looked at and rethought a couple of aspects of my practice. As an anonymous observer and student, I’m putting out a word of caution that there is little place for ego in financial services and it is always about the end client.
With me it is a constant practice.
Thanks once again for the forum.
Please note doctors want cheap financial products & services and expensive BMWs and wonder why they are broke at the end of their career.
Perhaps you missed this at the bottom of all 500+ pages of this site:
Disclaimer
I am not a financial or investment advisor. I am not an accountant, an insurance agent, nor an attorney. I only have two licenses, one to drive and one to practice medicine, neither of which I do on this site. The information on this site is for informational and entertainment purposes only and does not constitute financial, accounting, or legal advice. By using this site you agree to hold me harmless from any ramifications, financial or otherwise, that occur to you as a result of acting on information found on this site.
I primarily provide information and “what I would do.” Readers are 100% responsible for the consequences of their choices, including their choice to follow the advice of one who calls himself a financial advisor and charges tens of thousands of dollars a year or their choice of taking advice from some yeahoo on the internet they aren’t paying. It’s nearly impossible to successfully sue a financial advisor for terrible advice, terrible recommendations, and excessive fees. It would be even harder to go after a website publisher.
Of course my advice, like that of anyone else on the internet or in the doctor’s lounge, doesn’t “fully take into account someone’s financial situation.” But I don’t have to know someone’s financial situation to be able to say that “as a general rule, buying cash value life insurance and loaded mutual funds is a bad idea.” Or “putting 20% of your income toward retirement is a good idea” or “you should probably buy a couple million worth of term insurance if someone is depending on your income and you’re not financially independent.” If someone wants advice from someone who will “fully take into account their financial situation”, they can pay $5000-30,000 a year and get it. Whether that’s worth it or not is up to them.
Thanks. Did not see the disclaimer. I appreciate your response. Helps me put this site into context. Site did help me to tighten up my practice.
WCI,
I know this is late but I just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate your insights and responses on this string, and tell you that your work here is making an actual difference. I am finishing up fellowship (after a 6 year surgical residency) and I recently attended a sleazy dinner seminar put on by a Financial Services agency that specializes in physicians. It was total crap and I am glad that I found your site before signing up for anything. I did not really know what to expect but it was a room full of residents/fellows who are about to graduate and make a lot more money than we are used to. The topics on the agenda were:
• How to Protect Your Greatest Asset
• Financial Organization & Financial Balance
• Wealth Creation
• Investment Strategies
• Retirement Planning
Sounds good, right? and I certainly am open to learning about these things… but it seemed like a sale pitch from the beginning and some things just did not sound right. A large proportion of the presentation centered on why it is so important that we all have Whole Life insurance and they basically implied that term is for poor people or those who don’t want to pass anything on to their kids. They actually gave an example of a hypothetical rich dude with a $20M estate when he died. They said that $10M (half of the value) would be consumed by taxes and then to cover the tax bill, the kids would have to sell the real estate etc at a loss of 50% (“because that’s the way that estate sales work”), so the heirs receive nothing. And of course, this would have all been prevented if the rich dude would have signed up for whole life insurance. He asked us to raise our hand if you have children (I do)—you don’t want to screw over your children do you?? I have to admit that parts of it seemed very convincing but I decided to do more research. I came across your site and, along with the bogleheads forum and the MMM blog, was lucky to see that this Whole-Life stuff is total bullshit designed to enrich the guy selling the policy. Thanks for spending the time writing responses to these guys when they keep making the same ridiculous arguments; the back-and-forth has been helpful for me.
You’re welcome. Thank you for dedicating your life to helping others.
Was this in Pittsburgh?
Perform a random act of kindness today and tell those residents/fellows about this site and steer them away from whole life insurance.
NE Doc…could you share with us what you bought for a policy? I’m curious to compare a policy that Tyler sold you with quotes that I’ve received.
Also, are you a male? Female? Which companies did you review? Did you buy life insurance?
Much appreciated. This should be interesting (for you and all of us)!
WCI, I don’t understand why you keep mentioning the “break even” point of WL/CWL in rebuttals to people who have made it clear that they have maxed out retirement accounts and clearly are of high net worth. I think it is safe to assume that a 10-15 year waiting period of a minuscule portion of their retirement portfolio is far from a concern for them at this point. I agree with most of your points up until shunning WL as an option AFTER all other retirement savings vehicles are maxed. Why do you continue to disregard contribution limits? Why do you assume the risk/headache associated with stock market/real estate is worth it to everybody? Some people would rather take a guaranteed 3% than a non guaranteed 7% (WL returns have actually been much higher than that, between 4-5 percent over the last 30 years). In comparison to a cd or bank rates it’s not even debatable. WL blows it away. Maybe that’s why your response to Roy came off as so lackluster (the “nor does it” bit was almost entirely inaccurate in terms of how the product works, no pun intended).
The second huge problem I have with your article/responses is the cost comparison between term and whole life. You ran a 30 year level premium, million dollars in Insurance for a healthy 30 year old at 680 dollars a year. Fine. What you failed to address is the possibility of future uninsurability, and the fact that if this person wants insurance past the what does the person do when they are 60 and have no insurance? Assuming a client wants to have insurance in your their later years (which many do), If you’re going to only buy term so you can invest the rest you’re going to have to buy at least 2 30 year terms in your lifetime, the second one being closer to the age of 50 so that the second 30 year term can take you to age 80. This is a risk in itself. Your comfortably assuming that the person will not have any medical issues between the ages of 30-50 that will cause them either A. a decline, or B. An extremely low rating which drives premium up exponentially.
As far as no lapse UL goes, you clearly don’t understand the product so let me educate you on a few things.
1. You said there is no cash value no lapse UL. That’s completely false. There actually is some cash buildup just not as much as WL or CWL. (May want to re-edit the article)
2. No Lapse UL has premiums much higher than i think you’re understanding. In order to exercise a “no lapse” you need to meet the “target premium” every month, which tends to be at least double the original UL premium, so the insurance company just basically forces that premium on you rather than suggesting what you could pay into it to keep the policy in force.
Ken.. SPWL seems to fit your situation nicely. With the single premium you will pretty much rid away completely with any sort of waiting period so the product can begin to work for you right away. Not sure where WCI was going with the CD comparison, but it’s not even close. You’ll blow away cd returns in the custom whole life and that doesn’t even take a nice death benefit into account as part of a family legacy. Just be careful with estate tax laws as it seems your already aware of. Not sure who owns the policy in your case but definitely start looking into an ILIT (irrevocable life insurance trust) if you start approaching estate limits.
Someone who has a decent amount of product knowledge would never recommend anything other than a custom whole life to a client who is over 40 and in the position to reallocate some investment dollars via a single premium. Maximizing policy potential in year one actually “debunks” much of WCI’s debunking. The faster you can pay, the stronger the vehicle becomes. If a mec is an issue have them blend some term as a rider into the policy so you can pack it out as much as you’d like. And for the record, A custom pay whole life will pay out significantly less to the agent/advisor than a traditional one. Just wanted to mention that before WCI goes into his “high incentive” bit. I’m also not going to disclose my name or designations for that same reason.
Also, not every person in the industry is a bad apple. Two general rules of thumb is make sure the company has been writing business for 50 years, and if you are buying whole life make sure they are a mutual company (no shareholders typically means higher dividends for policy owners).
I look forward to your response. I’ll go back and forth with you all day long pal… Let’s play.
Welcome to the forum. I do not wish to “go back and forth with you all day long” nor “play.” If that is your goal, you are better served elsewhere on the internet. I have dozens of life insurance agents come by each month with that desire, but frankly, I just don’t have time to do that. If you don’t like what I have to say about whole life, leave a comment expressing your views as you have done, or start your own website all about life insurance. I’ll respond once to your concerns:
1) If an investor wants an investment that returns something like 3% over the long-run and has already maxed out his tax-protected accounts, then whole life insurance can be a great option, especially for a “miniscule” portion of his assets.
2) If someone wants insurance in their “later years” (i.e. after they’ve retired) then they should buy a permanent insurance policy to get that. Since you shouldn’t retire before becoming financially independent, that’s a pretty small percentage of people. I advocate buying the right term insurance the first time. So if planning to be financially independent by 60, and you’re 30, then buy a 30 year term. No risk of becoming “uninsurable” when you never need to buy more life insurance.
3) Guaranteed no-lapse universal life can be structured for a flat premium from purchase to death and with no cash value accumulation. That’s the product I’m talking about. I’m well aware that universal life has lots of dials that can be messed with. The premiums I’ve used when writing about it were taken from an illustration prepared for me by a licensed agent so I think I can have faith that they’re accurate. While much more expensive than term insurance, they are also much cheaper than whole life. About half the price as I recall. No escalating death benefit or cash value, of course.
4) Single premium (or even multi-premium) whole life inside an ILIT can be a useful estate planning tool for those with an estate tax problem.
Take a company like Northwestern Mutual. Over the last 15 years the rate of return for whole life has out performer the Dow and s&P.
[Ad hominem and rude comments deleted.]
Welcome to the website.
Your statement is incorrect. The typical rate of return for a whole life policy in the first 15 years is quite low, and occasionally, if the policy is particularly poorly designed, negative. Even using your cherry-picked time period to include both the 2000-2002 and the 2008-2009 bear shows that a stock portfolio purchased 15 years ago outperformed a typical whole life policy purchased 15 years ago.
You also demonstrate the classic insurance salesperson’s technique of saying something that an uninformed consumer will interpret in a different way. When comparing to an index, you get to leave out the dividends, a significant portion of the return of a stock investment. Should we exclude the dividends from your whole life returns as well?
At any rate, for the uninformed reader who might assume you know what you’re talking about, we’ll run this exercise using Vanguard’s 500 Index fund (what most people think of when you say “the S&P”)
From 1999-2013, the fund returned an arithmetic average of 6.57% per year, 3-6% more than a typical whole life policy would return in its first 15 years. If you use the more mathematically correct geometric average, you would get an annualized return of 4.7%, still well ahead of a whole life policy in its first 15 years.
While I appreciate your enthusiasm for your product, please be accurate in your comments on this website (and please avoid rude comments and ad hominem attacks.) While the internet might seem anonymous at times, I assure you there are real people out there, even if you may disagree with them, and they don’t appreciate the language you used in your first comment on the site.
if vanguard funds came with a death benefit, and you didn’t have to wait till you were 59.5 to take some money out and let investment continue to grow, would you buy?
If a MassMutual insurance agent came on your blog posing hypothetical questions, would you answer them? 🙂
The issue isn’t that there is a death benefit. The issue is the cost of said death benefit. If every mutual fund came with a free death benefit, that would be one thing. But they don’t. Because death benefits cost money. And the cost of that unnecessary insurance decreases returns of the investment.
You don’t have to wait until age 59.5 to take money out of a mutual fund either. But if you want to talk about a retirement account, well, you don’t have to wait until age 59.5 to take money out of there either: https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/how-to-get-to-your-money-before-age-59-12/
The real question is if you could buy an insurance policy that actually had good returns, didn’t pay a commission to an agent, and could be placed inside a retirement account which provided an up-front tax break, tax-protected growth, tax-free rebalancing between asset classes, and the ability to withdraw the money later at a lower effective tax rate would you buy it, even if it didn’t have a death benefit?
all insurance should do is replace what’s lost. you can look at everything else and call it whatever you like, at the end of the day, its about helping you sleep at night. no one has a crystal ball. you get hit by a bus the day after signing and your IRR would be pretty good right?
Yes, but not as good as if you spent that money on a 1 year term policy….
Thanks for posting this WCI, wish I’d read this 7 years ago.
The worst aspect of WL is the lack of disclosure during the sale, it’s a disgrace. The product is opaque.
I do feel ripped off and fell for several of the “myths”.
1) Scare tactics that tax policy might change for 401K’s by the time I retire. Whereas tax policy towards WL is immutable.
2) The implication that the Cash Value growth is unaffected by loans and it would be simple to take out loans for retirement. At the time I had no inkling about the difference between Direct and Non-Direct recognition. Now I do, and found out that Guardian Life are Direct and I borrow at 8%!
3) No explanation that the insurance company keeps the cash value at death. I know this is obvious now but it wasn’t spelled out at the time.
4) Of course the Non-Guaranteed Illustration was overly optimistic. And even then the Cash Value only caught up with Cumulative Outlay after 10 years.
5) The Illustrations are for single yearly payments rather than monthly payments. I suspect most people can’t afford a large yearly payment ($12K for me) and the Illustration should reflect your payment method. Again not spelled out the adviser.
6) That the cash value was untouchable by creditors.
7) Basically showing me a bunch of scary spreadsheets and completely downplaying the tax advantages of maxing out 401Ks.
Now the policy has entered it’s 8th year and as I’ve eaten most of the fees I’ll have to keep it. The forward projection (based on current illustration which I;m sure is optimistic) is 4.7% which I had analyzed by Jim Hunt: essentially it’s as if a side fund grew at 3.5% with the remaining 1.2% being the worth of the death protection.
My WL policy did OK in the deflationary crash in 2008 but what happens if inflation takes off…I suspect it does terribly being so bond rich.
Your story is amazingly typical for physicians who have bought these. Be sure to look at this post for other options for dumping your policy if you don’t want to keep it.
https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/how-to-dump-your-whole-life-policy/
Hi all,
Maybe you experts could provide us some feedback. We bought a Guardian whole life policy about 6 yrs ago with a million dollar death benefit. They monthly premium is around $1500, the current cash value is $74K. We have spent $102,000 in premiums so far, so we are about $28K “in the hole” on it right now. We have had many occasions where we thought about surrendering it, after we realized it was a poor investment decision, but have so far held on.
Now however, we find ourselves in need of cash for a house down payment. We had to sell our house after 6 years and move for various reasons, and our house unfortunately lost a lot of value, and we find ourselves with essentially NO EQUITY in the house, thus, little liquid cash on hand to buy another house. We do have plenty of other “nest egg” investments for retirement that are doing well and seem to be on track.
My question is, would you advise cashing in this account, taking the loss but being done with the whole life policy, and using that money toward buying a house, or leaving it in place until the cash value at least matches what we have put in a little closer, and using another, low-down-payment but probably higher interest rate method to buy a house?
Thanks!
Hi
There are many banks that will lend up to 90% of Cash value for 1-3%. You put your cash value up as collateral and it stays in place and grows as it would have. At this point in your policy, you have likely overcome all the acquisition costs and are breaking even on new money going in. Many people would love to parachute into a policy in year 6. Check out “valley national bank” [email protected] is the email of the person I use.
The Valley National Bank Cash Value Line of Credit can be a very useful tool.
However, keep in mind, their interest rate is Prime Rate with a floor (minimum) interest rate of 4% and a maximum interest rate of 15.9%.
The Prime Rate used by Valley will be the highest Prime Rate published in the Wall Street Journal on the last banking day preceding the first day of each billing period.
Guardian’s interest rate charged on policy loans is payable in advance and is
guaranteed at the effective annual rate of 8.00% for the later of 20 years or to age 65. Thereafter the rate is 5.00%.
Below is the official disclosure regarding Cash Value Line of Credit Programs:
Use of your policy as collateral for a bank loan is not endorsed or recommended by Guardian or Park Avenue Securities (PAS). Valley National Bank has no affiliation with Guardian or PAS. Other banks may have similar loan programs and may offer rates that are more favorable. Proceeds from any bank loan obtained may not be used for the purchase of any investment product through PAS.
When you’re 6 years into it, most of the poor investment returns are already water under the bridge. Get an inforce-illustration and look at what your guaranteed and projected IRR will be. It probably doesn’t look too bad GOING FORWARD from here. It would be even better if you could afford to pay annually (unless Guardian’s whole life is like their disability where there is no discount for paying annually.) So it isn’t necessarily a terrible thing to keep going forward, even though you have a cumulative loss of over 25% (minus the tiny value of the life insurance over the last 6 years).
But the question is where should you get the cash from to buy a house. There are a number of options:
1) Don’t get it. Use a physician loan for a mortgage.
2) Use saved money. 🙂 https://screen.yahoo.com/dont-buy-stuff-000000884.html
3) Use other cash you have laying around in your bank accounts, emergency fund etc.
4) Liquidate taxable investments, highest cost basis first.
5) Borrow from a 401(k)
6) Liquidate an IRA/Roth IRA- if the new house qualifies as a “first house” by IRS rules, you might not even have to pay the penalty
7) Borrow from the whole life policy
The pluses and minuses of using each of these sources of funding should be considered.
I don’t like whole life, so I’d give serious consideration to just cashing it out, even after 6 years, but that’s not necessarily the best thing to do for you (although it sounds like you don’t like it much either.) If the terms for borrowing it aren’t too bad, you might just do that and keep the policy. I also wouldn’t have a problem renting for a few months, putting retirement savings on hold, and saving up a new down payment. I also wouldn’t have a problem using a doctor loan. With the market at all time highs, it doesn’t seem like a terrible time to liquidate taxable investments as long as the tax hit isn’t too high. I’d lean away from borrowing from the 401(k) or cashing out an IRA.
Good luck with your decision.
Here is a little perspective about myth #2.
http://www.peterkatt.com/newsletters/ATI_v15n05.html
Katt’s argument is that WL may have a higher yield at life expectancy than GUL. The obvious rebuttal to that is that it isn’t guaranteed like GUL (it’s a projected return). It could be lower. Guarantees cost money. Besides, the point is that GUL has much lower premiums for someone who needs a definite permanent death benefit.
Here is the potential issue with no-lapse premium guarantees.
http://www.peterkatt.com/articles/AAII_jul2003.html
All the more reason not to buy permanent insurance at all, no?
I find it fascinating that among insurance agents, only their pet permanent life insurance product is good, and all the rest suck. If I were to take the majority opinion of those who sell all types of permanent life insurance about each individual type of it, there would be a negative opinion of each of them. I chalk it up to salesmanship vs lack of education vs bizarrely deeply held opinion. These are all far more similar than they are different. Part of the reason I avoid them all in my personal financial planning and investing.
Myth # 3 Whole Life Provides A Great Investment Return.
A little perspective about whole life insurance used as a form or option of conservative investment for a specific need. I know that someone will argue that bond index funds are superior.
http://www.cpa2biz.com/Content/media/PRODUCER_CONTENT/Newsletters/Articles_2011/Wealth/Asan_investment.jsp
Interesting that he only presents the projected numbers and ignores the guaranteed ones. Why would that be? Oh, because they look so terrible.
I was a little surprised at the lack of factual evidence in some of these articles. I’m sure my posts would be similar if I spent most of my time reading medical journals and WebMD versus going to school for finance or investment management. While I do not work in the financial services industry (military), my undergrad is in finance and I chose investment management as my MBA concentration. I think it is important to know the difference between an average rate of return and the compound annual growth rate. The growth rate is he more important number. Here is an example of average rate of return vs CAGR: You invest $100,000 in the market. Market drops 10% that year, which leaves you with $90,000. Fortunately, you’re overseas doing some volunteer work and haven’t heard about this drop and you leave your money in the market (which I’m sad to say is when most people make the mistake of pulling out). The market rebounds 10% the next year, bringing your $90,000 up o $99,000. For the two years, your average rate of return is 0. However, your CAGR is still negative. That’s the where the fallacy from which 7-12% expected return is coming from. Thanks to coming off the gold standard in the 70’s and the introduction of the 401K in 1980, 1980-1999 was the largest growth period in the history of the stock market, which was due to a unique effect on supply and demand of stocks. We are not likely to ever see that same type of growth again in the market. If you take out that period, the expected market return is less than 5% and that’s not including the hidden fees associated with 401K and IRA management. I’d love to see a portfolio with a growth rate (not average return) of 9% during the last 20 years, if you have one.
Thank you for your comment and thoughts. I am aware of the difference between an average annual return and an annualized return or CAGR. I discuss how to calculate it using Excel here:
https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/how-to-calculate-your-return-the-excel-xirr-function/
I’ve been investing for ten years, not twenty, but my annualized return or CAGR is 9.17% thus far. But it isn’t that hard to come up with a reasonable portfolio with a 9% return over 20 years. A quick and easy look shows Vanguard’s Small Cap Value index, started 16 years ago has an 8.7% annualized return (it would be significantly higher if you went back to 20 years), tax managed small cap is 11% over the last 15 years, same thing if you went back 20. Mid cap index is going back 10.33% at 14 years (to the start of the bear market in 2000). Even the total stock market index is 9.58% going back 22 years. I’m sure if you really cared, you could calculate it out at exactly 20 years and find there were lots of equity heavy portfolios that have returned 9%+ over the last 20 years. Even REIT index over the last 18 years has returned 11%.
Regarding evidence, is there a particular point you would like to see more evidence on?
I think the biggest factor is what has caused those returns. The recent policies on QE has created a false bull market that has recently been propped up by optimism in the economy finally showing life again after so many years of stagnation. The return to normal isn’t far off into the future and I’d expect your CAGR to then return back to normal. I think a deeper look at the cause for the numbers is more prudent than just looking at the numbers. Not everyone could stomach losing 20-30% of their portfolio during the upcoming correction. In an ideal scenario, everyone would have the time and intellect to manage their own portfolios through a discount broker dealer but that’s rarely the case. When you adjust for hidden fees inside of 401k plans and mutual funds, they would be better off just picking their own stocks and bonds but even I have two people that help me manage my insurance and stock portfolio. My primary point is that over funded life insurance while not sexy at 4% CAGR still does have a place, especially for those that have a cash flow that greatly exceeds the limits on 401k and IRA contributions.
If you believe that, you’re welcome to invest in something else. Isn’t a free country awesome? I agree that not everyone can stomach losing 20-30% of their portfolio in the upcoming correction (whenever that might be) but I’ve discovered that I can. (It was actually 33% overall, and as much as 78% in one asset class.) If you cannot stomach that sort of volatility, perhaps you’ll need to accept the lower returns available by investing through a life insurance policy, or simply invest in a less aggressive portfolio than mine. My parent’s 50/50 portfolio, for instance, only dropped by 18% in the downturn.
It doesn’t take much time or intellect to manage a portfolio composed of a handful of index funds. Even a busy doctor can do that. I disagree that most people are better off picking their own stocks and bonds rather than using 401(k)s, Roth IRAs, and mutual funds. It’s actually really easy to minimize the fees on these suckers (although you are correct that minimizing them is an important aspect of investing.)
I agree that the 4% long term returns offered by whole life insurance are not sexy. They are not attractive and are not high enough to help most people meet their financial goals. After you subtract 3% inflation, it will take you seven decades to double your money at that rate.
Does cash value life insurance compare more favorably against a taxable account than against a 401(k) or IRA? Sure. But I still view it as inferior to just investing tax-efficiently in a taxable account. Plus, many high income professionals have far higher limits on retirement plans than you might think. For instance, I’ve got a 401(k)/Profit-sharing plan ($52K), a defined benefit/cash balance plan ($30K), two backdoor Roth IRAs ($11K total), an HSA/Stealth IRA ($6450), an individual 401(k) for my side business (another $52K.) I’m up to over $150K. How much do I have to put away each year? I haven’t even started into a tax-efficient mutual funds in a taxable account (where I could both tax loss harvest and flush out any capital gains by using it for my annual charitable contributions) or real estate investing where I can shelter much of the income with depreciation.
But if you love investing in life insurance, and find an unguaranteed 4% return attractive (and that’s in the long run, the short run is much worse) then knock yourself out and invest that way. No skin off my nose. I don’t have a dog in the fight. I don’t make more or less if you choose to buy a permanent life insurance policy. But I’m not going to do it, and I don’t think most doctors ought to either.
Also, there are still hidden fees and taxes to adjust for in your 9.17% that arent significant if you can picture taxes decreasing in our lifetime…
I love that you seem to know more about my portfolio than I do. Those assets are almost entirely in tax-protected accounts, much of it in Roth accounts. There goes your tax argument. The numbers are also post expenses. There goes your hidden fee argument. Thanks for playing. You’re welcome to talk about your own portfolio, but if we’re going to talk about MY portfolio, I assure you I am the expert.
WCI, how did you adjust for the XIRR bug? When I recreated your excel spreadsheet, I got a much much lower IRR on savings and then verified it by running the numbers through a savings calc.
I can’t tell what you’re referring to in the 278th comment on this 3 year old article. You’re going to have to be more specific.
Just wanted to say thank you to WCI for all of the hard work. I’ve been reading the blog for about 3 weeks and have learned a lot. I read through all of the comments on this entry and am so glad I did. I’m 4 years out of fellowship and have a few friends who recently bought WL (all from the same agent) and keep pressuring me to go see this person for “free financial planning”. So glad I decided to do some research first. Now I’m worried about my friends who are handing over thousands of dollars every month.
You’re welcome.