
Countless ink has been spilled and numerous research papers have been published on the subject of retirement spending, specifically how to spend down a nest egg in retirement. There is this widely believed perception out there that the decumulation years are dramatically more complicated than the accumulation years.
I'm not sure that's actually true. For example, I manage my parents' portfolio. I kid you not when I tell you that it takes me less than an hour a year, and most of that is updating the spreadsheet and writing them a letter at the end of the year telling them how their portfolio did. I only log into the accounts twice during the year—once to rebalance and once to take RMDs. Frankly, if we just did both of those chores at the same time, it would cut that effort in half. Meanwhile, I'm having to invest money into our own accounts every month, track investments, evaluate new investments, and read up on new retirement account options and contribution limits.
Retirement investors should also be experienced investors. No need to relearn about market history or fight to control their investing behavior or take on a new job or cut spending to boost their savings rate or any of those other things that young investors do to be successful. The hardest part for most retirees is just learning how to spend more money on things and experiences they care about, so they don't die the richest folks in the graveyard. Cry me a river.
Retirement Withdrawal Plans
Engineers and financial nerds love to geek out on comparing and coming up with new methods of decumulating. The varieties of possible plans are endless. I think that most people have concluded by now that the simplified method used in the Trinity Study (4% of the original portfolio value, adjusted up with inflation each year) is probably not the best withdrawal method. So, they've come up with dozens of variable and fixed methods.
We've talked about a bunch of them in the past year or so in what basically became a blog series on decumulation:
- The Silliness of the Safe Withdrawal Rate Movement
- Fear of the Decumulation Phase in Retirement
- A Framework for Thinking About Retirement Income
- Comparing Portfolio Withdrawal Strategies in Retirement
- How Flexible Might You Have to Be in Retirement?
- What Does It Mean to ‘Adjust as You Go’ in Retirement?
But let's be honest, most people want a simpler solution. And that's probably a good thing. Rather than go over a dozen or more complicated methods of spending down your money, I'm going to cover four very simple methods. All four are simple. All four are VERY commonly used. I'll explain the upsides and downsides of each one, but the main upside of each of them is its simplicity. Even a half-senile 88-year-old can handle each of these methods with little assistance, unlike most of the stuff put out by academia.
#1 Spend Whatever You Want
The first method is what I call the “spend whatever you want” method. This is actually a really commonly used method and is the withdrawal plan that Katie and I will be using. The main upside is that you don't have to track anything or put any sort of limits on your spending, and that's obviously very attractive. The downside is that it requires you to be very wealthy relative to what you wish to spend. But for many people who work long after they're financially independent, this is a fantastic method. Maybe the best. When you see people on forums talking about only spending 1%-2% of their nest egg a year, this is basically their withdrawal plan.
More information here:
Beyond Financial Independence: Money Irrelevancy
Life After Financial Independence: Two Perspectives
#2 Spend the Income (Never Touch Your Principal)
This is a silly method in a lot of ways, but it's actually a very frequently used method. It typically produces an annual spending amount that is not all that different from the “spend whatever you want” method. The upside is that it isn't hard at all to tell how much you're supposed to spend in a given year. You spend your interest, your dividends, your rents, and your bond coupons. If there's any Social Security or pensions, you spend that, too. But you never touch your principal.
The main downside is that since you're not immortal, you're going to leave A LOT of money to your heirs that you could have spent on yourself. You're likely to die with a large multiple of what you retired with. There is a minor downside, that you might be tempted to preferentially invest in investments that provide a high income despite not having a very good risk-adjusted total return. This can result in bad investments and inefficient taxation.
#3 Adjust as You Go
The first two methods are for those who are pretty wealthy. If you're not all that wealthy, you're much more likely to select this method. Taylor Larimore, co-author of The Bogleheads Guide to Investing, selected this method back in 1980 when he retired with $1 million. Forty-five years later, he is 101 years old and doing just fine with his money. He simply adjusted his spending as he went, keeping an eye on the size of the nest egg and his life expectancy.
Before retiring, we all made adjustments in our lifestyles and spending for many decades; why couldn't we do the same after retiring? Nobody in their right mind who retires with a halfway decent nest egg is going to just keep on spending as its value approaches zero. The upside of this approach is that it usually allows for a much higher spending amount than the 4% prescribed by the Trinity Study. It also allows the flexibility to spend more during the “Go-Go” early retirement years and less during the “Slow-Go” and early part of the “No-Go” years before healthcare expenses go through the roof. The only real downside of this method is that you actually do have to pay at least a little bit of attention to your nest egg size, investment performance, and ongoing spending. Your heirs are also likely to get a smaller inheritance as you optimize your own spending.
How can you tell if this is a method you should consider? It's really a measure of your wealth. Not absolute wealth but relative wealth; how much you have compared to how much you want to spend each year. If you've only got a nest egg that is 15-30 times your annual spending, you should definitely use this method instead of the “spend whatever you want” or “never touch your principal” method. If you have less than 15X your annual spending, you should give serious consideration to the purchase of guaranteed income streams such as Single Premium Immediate Annuities (SPIAs) with some of your nest egg.
More information here:
How to Spend Your Nest Egg — Probability vs. Safety First
#4 Spend the RMDs
A surprising number of investors worry about having an “RMD problem.” After saving gobs of taxes throughout their accumulation years, they're bummed that the government wants their cut of those tax-deferred accounts, especially if those withdrawals also increase their IRMAA or ACA payments. These folks are taking the money out of their tax-deferred accounts, paying the taxes on it, griping and moaning about it, and then reinvesting that money in their taxable account for their heirs. This might be the most desired financial problem in the world. However, it leads to the last of our four investment methods: spending the RMDs.
Here's a novel concept. Required Minimum Distributions (RMDs) are actuarially determined. For most of us, they'll start at age 75 at about 4% of the prior year's balance and gradually climb into double digits in our 90s. Why not just spend the RMD? The upsides of this method are that it is actuarially sound and completely reasonable, and your IRA custodian will even tell you how much to spend at the beginning of every year. You'll never go broke following this method either, although it is possible with terrible investment returns that your “income” could get very small eventually. The downside of this method is that it doesn't really work for two of the three types of investing accounts. There are no RMDs for taxable or Roth accounts. You could simulate them, though, by applying the same RMD percentage used with your tax-deferred account to your other accounts.
Combining the Methods
There is also no reason why you can't use more than one method. For example, you could combine the “spend the income” method in your taxable account with the RMD method from your tax-deferred accounts. So, you might spend your Social Security and pension income, plus the interest and dividends from your taxable account, plus your RMD. You could then use principal withdrawals from the taxable account and Roth withdrawals for large one-time expenditures, effectively adjusting as you go.
The decumulation phase does not have to be complicated. Very simple and commonly used withdrawal methods are actually very robust and completely reasonable. Millions of high-income earners have retired before you and have done just fine. There's no reason you can't do the same.
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What do you think? If you're retired, what method are you using to draw down your assets? If you're not yet retired, what is your planned withdrawal method?
At what multiple of spending would you be typically comfortable with spend whatever you want? How would that answer change based on retiring at normal retirement age versus retiring in early 40s? Thanks!
Whatever you want certainly needs to be in the 4% neighborhood. Not sure exactly what you’re asking there. Retiring earlier does argue for a slightly lower withdrawal rate but keep in mind most of the time historically using 4% meant you had 2.7X what you started with after 30 years. So adjust as you go.
To clarify, I was referring to option #1 “spend what you want.”
So at what multiple of yearly expenses would you need to have with your nest egg to where you can feel comfortable to just do whatever and not even worry about any withdrawal rules etc? I know this number varies (based on personal money pschology etc), but I was seeking what multiple makes you personally say … we can “spend what we want” and not track or worry about anything.
I’d say if you’re spending under 3% and “what you want” remains under 3% of the original nest egg indexed to inflation you’re in that category. It would be a heck of a sequence of returns risk scenario where 3% wouldn’t work for many decades .
I’m a couple years from retiring and as a DIY investor, the myriad of withdrawal strategies to consider is stressful. I appreciate these simple options. I focused on optimizing during accumulation, but I’ve evolved to value simplicity. I realize there’s a trade off, but the price is worth it to me at this phase of my life. In fact, my first draw down actions will be to liquidate smaller accounts just to eliminate them (ie i-Bonds). I will likely use Taylor’s adjust as you go method. Thank you for this content.
part of retirement is facing death in the face. Same issue as getting life and disability insurance earlier in life but more complicated. Spouse’s experience helping his mom navigate his dad’s estate woke him up to why my financial updates are crucial. He has asked and I’m trying that I simplify what he’ll have to manage if I’m gone or unable. Work in progress but our mothers’ deaths were more easily managed, and less and less do I feel our kids would need to help dad even if he’s under 70.
And if you’re already solo! My brother is still managing the affairs of our cousin who died 2 years ago. For several months he was loaning her estate money when he wanted to pay the mortgages on her rental properties without access yet to her bank accounts! And the will?!? Found in the pantry a week after her death. Yes she was under 80, but when telling him he was her executor long ago it would’ve helped to note where she keeps important documents, and I think he was her medical proxy because they made her fill that out at her last colonoscopy or something. That she ended up in the same hospital with that paperwork was just luck.
As an early retiree with ACA insurance, we’re going to have to be aware of the cliff in 2026 and beyond, where +$1 in income could mean +$15,000 in annual premiums. By my calculations, we should be able to avoid the cliff for the next couple years before we have to bite the bullet and pay full premium in order to pull enough money. And at that point, I may pull enough for multiple years so we can go back to being under 400% FPL.
Oddly enough, it creates a perverse incentive for a market drop, because then we could pull more money from our taxable account and have lower capital gains. I am certainly not hoping for that, but was interesting when I thought through it.
There are some weird places in the tax code, and that’s one of them. Hopefully not an issue for many WCIers who simply have way more income than that necessary to get ACA subsidies.
First, a very hearty thanks for all of the great material on this site on this subject. I retired in 2022 and have a couple of years to go before RMDs start. Withdrawal method will be RMD. A couple of overriding considerations are creating a nice additional paycheck for our go-go years coupled with QCDs, and use of traditional IRA balances to fund LTC and big health care if needed. Besides QCDs our only withdrawals were to extend Social Security to 70 after work ended. We regard Roth conversions as an estate planning matter for the survivor of us. If called home before that can get done and the kids want to complain about the tax bump, well then cry me a river.
Thank you for this – it certainly simplifies things. Why make it complicated when there’s no need? I’m going to use “Spend a little more than I’ve been spending”, and if there’s any trouble I’m sure I’ll know about it well in advance!
I think my withdrawal strategy is:
1. Have at least 60-70% equities with mix of small cap value and large cap
2. Use a withdrawal rate of 4.5% and if some years goes to 5% not worry about it as long as not in a bad bear market
3 . When market down over 20%, decrease spending on discretionary expenses to about the 3.5-4% point
4. If market way up one year, not be shy about taking out 6-7% if I really wanted to for some reason
There are sites/calculators where you can test this against historic returns and in Monte Carlo simulations. It’s also similar to guiderails approach that Christine Benz at Morningstar has written about. Your success is going to be a function of starting withdraw rate, age and whether the market is at all time highs/CAPE ratio (because returns are not a random walk, but path dependent. For more in this, I’d recommend reading Karsten Jeske). Based on my reading, you’re numbers work reasonably if you’re not too young, but are high if you’re looking at a 40+ year period and/or retire in today’s market (very high CAPE) without shifting much more into bonds and planning a reverse glide path back into equities.
Sounds reasonable although I always get at least a little nervous when people start talking about taking out more than 4%. For example, at a 50/50 allocation in the Trinity Study 7% adjusted to inflation failed 16% of the time in 15 years, 37% of the time in 20 years, 58% of the time in 25 years, and 78% of the time in 30 years.
But I applaud your aggressiveness and agree that most of the time a plan like yours works out fine. I think a much bigger issue these days is not that people are too aggressive with these plans, but that they’re too conservative and leave a lot of money on the table they could have spent.
How can one have both ACA and RMD problem? I guess one way is having a much younger trophy spouse! But I don’t think you had that in mind
I’m not sure I wrote that a person could have both at the same time and if I did that was a mistake. Typically they would not as most people are not on an ACA plan after 65 and most people aren’t taking RMDs until their mid 70s.
Your #4 RMD paragraph mentioned IRMAA and ACA. I found that little odd but can still apply with a younger spouse who might need ACA even though other would had RMD
ACA until 65, IRMAA after 65 in general. Similar issues with both though. And yes, I’m sure we can come up with a convoluted scenario where one couple was dealing with ACA issues, IRMAA issues, and RMD issues all at once.
I appreciate the insights on retirement withdrawal strategies! It’s crucial to have a solid plan during the decumulation phase. Looking forward to applying these tips!
This is a great introduction but such a topic needs a deep dive.
Are your resources concentrated in taxable or deferred texts accounts?
What are the specific investment classes?
Are you keeping 1 to 3 years of your resources in liquid investments so you can ride out a down market without selling? AKA as bucket plan.
The only way I was able to get a handle on the decumulation phase was through Monte Carlo modeling. This is to help reduce recency bias or other bias in planning. Of course it is not possible to guarantee anything, but at least it gives you a range of likelihoods for different outcomes at different spending levels, investment terms, and inflation.
But to get a somewhat accurate Monte Carlo analysis, one must be very clear in what your anticipated expenses are over time, including living expenses, gifting and sequence of return risks.
Yes, you can spend a lot of time talking about this subject and diving deep into it. And yes, asset location and asset allocation are important as well as liquidity. Spending some time doing a deep dive can be worthwhile.
The point of this article was that most people aren’t doing a deep dive and guess what? They’re doing okay just doing one of the above methods. But those inclined to do a deep dive, and I would probably be among them if I wasn’t as wealthy as I am relative to our spending, aren’t going to be satisfied with these methods.
Exactly! Almost every single person either here or on BH does not need to agonize. We have seen BH with infinite x are worried about running out of money! They are never going to be eating cat food. The key concept that Dr JD hammered about problem being in accumulation vs deccumulation needs to be grasped. If you screw up former no tweaks you do in later stage will be sufficient. If you do the former right then no tweaking in later stages is necessary. The worst outcome is you pay more in taxes. Cry me a river!
This has become a great series, and this is the best piece yet. So much overthinking out there. Your RMD point alone is gold.
Glad you enjoyed it.
I think not spending enough is the actual first world problem for many retirees. A simple rule, such as spending a minimum of 2% of your portfolio balance each year (actual spending or giving net of taxes) is useful to consider.