We did something in 2016 that we had never done before — we bought a brand new car from a dealership.
The Demise of Our Beater
I left for a week-long Lake Powell canyoneering trip on a Sunday evening. I drove our nice car (the 2005 Toyota Sequoia with 181,000 miles that we always fight over who gets to drive) because I was towing the boat. That left my wife with the crappy car (the 2002 Dodge Durango with 180,000 miles on it that neither of us ever liked all that much, but that only cost us $4K in 2010.) The car had developed a bit of a noise from the engine in the previous couple of days, but seemed to be running fine when I left.
Monday morning, I put the boat in the water and we headed off into the boondocks to do a canyon. Meanwhile, Katie ran her first errand in the Durango. That noise got much louder and the car was barely running. She limped it into the mechanic, who pronounced it. “Time of Death- 9:47.” The engine was shot. She went home, got the title, and sold it to a scrapyard for $225.
By the time I spoke to her that evening, she was driving my sister's spare car (which makes the Durango look really nice) and making plans to get a new car. Secretly, I was super excited. I mean, sure it sucks to have to buy a new car, but you also get a new car out of the experience. I would have preferred that someone backed into it in the parking lot (which also would have totaled it but would have gotten me a lot more money from the insurance company) but the engine blowing up is a close second. On Monday morning, after waking up from my night shift, we headed on down to the local dealers.
New Car Shopping
You see, the Durango was our last beater. As I wrote about earlier this year, I think poor people ought to drive cheap cars but I'm okay with rich people driving whatever they want.
In this case, a rich person is someone who is on track to meet their savings goals and has the cash to pay for the car. As discussed previously, my goal isn't to die with the biggest possible stash. Thanks to investing, I fully intend to spend more money than I ever earn during my life. I deferred spending as a resident and young attending so that I could spend MORE MONEY later, so long as it was spent on something that increased happiness.
So our plan when one of our cars died was to go buy another Sequoia. However, I didn't like the windshield in the newer Sequoias as much as I liked the more vertical one in the older ones, and although it has more power, the gas mileage isn't as good as you can get with a Suburban. So we decided we'd better go check out a suburban too. Those of you who are tall enough to have to lean forward to see if the traffic light is green know what I'm talking about.
Although the Suburban had a lot more headroom, it was a little long for my taste, looked and drove like a bus, and despite the headroom didn't improve my ability to see the traffic lights. So we decided to get another Sequoia. The Sequoia comes in three trim levels — SR5, Limited, and Platinum. For better or for worse, that's pretty much the only decision you have to make aside from desired color, which actually makes negotiation a lot more straightforward.
The first dealership we went to didn't have a Limited, which is what our old one was and what we thought we wanted, so we went to a second dealership to look at one. We had a few questions on options so we went inside with the salesman and got all of our questions answered. Then, and this is key, we stood up and walked out. Not because we didn't know what we want, because we then did. But simply to improve our negotiating position.
How to Negotiate
You see, in negotiating there are a few principles to be aware of:
- Information is power
- Negotiate on your own turf
- Negotiate on your time table
- Never buy stuff when you're hungry
- Never be more desperate to buy something than the guy is to sell it
I was hungry. So we went to In-n-Out Burger, had fries, a double-double (mine was animal style, hers protein style), and a strawberry shake. Mostly because that's pretty much all they serve there. Then we went home and I sat down on the computer.
The stalking was done, now all we had to do was pull the trigger. I was no longer hungry, I was no longer on their turf, and I was no longer on their time table. All I had to do was acquire sufficient information so that I was no longer at an information disadvantage.
Google showed me there were six Toyota dealerships that I was willing to drive to in order to buy a new car. I thought, “Sweet! This is going to be way easier than negotiating the boat,” where there was only one dealership in the state and they had a monopoly (other dealerships wouldn't even sell to me if I drove out of state.) So I emailed all of the dealerships this email:
I'm interested in buying a 2016 4×4 Sequoia Limited with Pyrite exterior and Graphite interior as soon as possible at the lowest possible price and am contacting several local dealers. Please quote me your very best out the door (including tax, title, and licensing) price and let me know when it can be available for purchase.
What does that email do? Several things. It tells the guy on the other end that I'm
- Very serious about buying,
- That I already know exactly what I want,
- That I know what the car is worth,
- That he has competition,
-
That I'm not going to fall for silly pricing tricks,
- That he better not drag his feet getting me a quote.
Reviewing the Offers
Then I went to work. By the time I got out of bed the next afternoon, I had two offers, several “here's what we have” and a couple of “please come on down and we'll talk” emails. The two offers for an out the door price were $61,300 and $60,100. Were those a good price? Well, let's take a look.
First, I went to Truecar, which gives you this nice graph you see above with all kinds of useful information including the MSRP, the average paid, and the factory invoice. It does not, however, give you a true “out the door” price. But it isn't that hard to figure out.
For example, the sales tax around here is 6.85%, and 6.85% of $60K is $4,110. So subtracting $4,110 from the first offer, $60,100, leaves me with $56K. I'm already below the factory invoice, well into the “great price” category, and knocking on the door to the “exceptional price” category.
I confirmed this by going to a couple more similar websites such as Kelley Blue Book, which listed the “fair price” as $57,205. We checked with USAA and Costco which have car buying programs. Costco was the better one, which was $300 above factory invoice. That told me that these offers were serious offers and also that I probably wouldn't get a dramatically lower price.
The Final Price
My goal with this negotiation wasn't to get the lowest possible price. I primarily wanted to avoid being ripped off, but secondarily I wanted to minimize the time spent and I wanted to buy the car from the dealership closest to my house, since the car comes with 2 years of maintenance and a 3-5 year warranty. I wasn't going to drive another 30-45 minutes to buy it much less to get it serviced for an extra $50 discount. But the dealers didn't know that. They didn't even know where I lived.
I was also able to check the online inventory for all six dealers. It turns out there were only two of these vehicles between the six dealers, and neither of them were at either of the dealerships I had already visited, including my preferred one.
I went back and forth by email and phone a couple of times between the lowest cost dealer and my preferred dealer. That knocked a couple hundred more off the price and eventually, the preferred dealer agreed to get the car from the other dealer that had it and sell it to me while matching the price, out the door for $59,900. That corresponded to a purchase price of $55,536.15. Not quite “exceptional” but good enough for my purposes, especially when I was able to get it from the dealer closest to my house.
I gave them a $3K credit card deposit (couldn't talk them into letting me make a larger one) and we arranged a time to come in, sign papers, and pick it up. Not too bad. 24 hours of effort, no pressured sales, a good price, and a good experience. (Much better than buying the boat .) I actually had more trouble getting Ally Bank to send a wire for the cash than anything else.
So, now we have two Sequoias sitting in our garage (yes, we're trying to ruin the planet singlehandedly) and while I'm not driving the new one, I do get to drive my preferred car which will hopefully last another 5+ years now that we'll be putting less miles on it each year. And the kids think the third-row power seats and Bluetooth are pretty cool. Spoiled brats.
What do you think? Have you ever bought a new car? How did you negotiate the price? Any tips for readers? Comment below!
The one other tip that has made car buying much more enjoyable is to insist on home delivery of your vehicle.
This opens up your shopping network to across the entire country (not everyone will deliver your car to you for free. But even if you have to pay for shipping/transport, it can sometimes still be cheaper than the local dealership pricing. You’ll find exotic cars and high horsepower cars tend to be excluded from delivery as well)
Best of all, it’s now the dealership employee who wants to complete the deal and leave your home (or place of work) as quickly as possible (instead of the customer itching to get out of the dealership).
I had the car delivered to me and the paperwork completed in under 15 minutes the last time I went car shopping and took home delivery. The salesman didn’t even bother going into the extended warranty / weatherproofing / leather treatment spiel.
Also worthwhile to fly one-way and pickup. You put some miles on the car doing it but it can be exciting.
Without hijacking the topic too much, what would you guys recommend if someone were interested in swapping out luxury cars every 2-3 years?
Leasing seems to make the most sense but I’m beginning to tire of the mileage restrictions and the worry about every little ding and scratch.
I deduct the lease payments as a business expense but since I’m a W2, that 2% floor is getting harder and harder to surpass every year.
I wonder if it would make more sense to just purchase the car in cash and claim the large depreciation deduction on the years where I trade in the vehicle?
(I know, I know. The financially savvy thing to do would be to purchase the car and just drive it into the ground.)
If you really want to swap out cars every 2-3 years, and realize that this is just how you wish to consume (this all assumes you’ve paid off all your debt and are saving 20%+ of your gross for retirement and can otherwise afford to do this) then sure, lease or buy, whatever floats your boat. It’s all a huge waste of money so I wouldn’t make the decision based on finances. If you’re annoyed by mileage restrictions, then buy new and trade it in to the dealer every 2 years. They’ll love you and after doing that a couple of times you should get GREAT service there! They’ll probably bring the car over to your office with the paperwork ready to go!
This post should help: https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/deducting-mileage-vs-actual-expenses/
Consumer Reports ranks Tesla near bottom for reliability
https://finance.yahoo.com/news/consumer-reports-ranks-tesla-near-170036044.html
Your post was very well timed, and I decided to follow your advice. I’m guessing I saved about $2,000 over what I would have otherwise done! I spent more time than you did, but I felt it really paid off.
I went with a dealer an hour away, but I don’t think I’ll have a problem servicing the car at the nearby dealer.
Congrats! IMO a few weeks of emails to a bunch of dealers is much preferred to wasting hours and hours in a showroom.
Service should be no big deal.
I think you probably did as well as this guy would have:
http://www.npr.org/sections/money/2012/12/21/167802325/episode-425-an-fbi-hostage-negotiator-buys-a-car
And also didn’t have to role play. Enjoy!
I bought a new car last year during my last year of residency. I know, I know, but hear me out. I moonlit my butt off and my wife was working. I paid off all of my student loans and had an emergency fund plus some money in a Roth. So I know it wasn’t super wise, but it also wasn’t super dumb either.
Anyway, I used USAA’s car buying service and it was amazing. I have no conflicts of interest, just really love USAA. Anyways, it’s very similar to what you did except they do the work for you. You put in your zip code, exact make, model, trim, color, etc. It gives you the three best pre-negotiated deals they can find, then they tell you where to pick it up.
I essentially played with the service, putting in the zip code of all of the dealerships in the state, then I took the lowest price to my local dealership and told them to match it. They did.
Either way, congrats on the new car and thanks for the blog.
Nice job getting your loans paid off. Did you feel all that moonlighting affected the quality of your training?
I feel it significantly supplemented my growth as a doctor. I worked at a double coverage community shop with moderate volume and acuity seeing adults and kids, either didn’t have a trauma designation or was level 3, but there were only 2 hospitals in the city and the nearest true trauma center was quite far. I also did tubes and codes on the floor. I was seeing 2-2.4pph most days, some only 1.5, but others 3. Midlevels took most of the low acuity and peds, but I didn’t have to supervise them (that was the non-locum docs job). It was stressful but great.
I received exceptional training at my program with crazy acuity and volume and was always a very hard worker and studier. My program was very front-loaded. By third year, it was a little easier to coast at my home institution, so this forced me to push myself and keep reading. The money was a nice bonus. It was also nice to lift my spirits. I’m sure you remember being at the end of residency and being fairly cynical. This reminded me why I did EM in the first place. Plus the cash was nice.
Thanks for the write-up! We are going through this process now for a new BMW 3-series wagon and I was wondering how to frame the email. Sadly, our 2011 Audi diesel is part of the VW diesel scandal. We have 2 years to return it and I thought we’d ride it out but we keep having to put money in the car (new battery, brake pads, blah, blah) which would have been fine if we were going to keep it another 5-10 years as planned, but now it just feels like money down the drain so we’ve decided to ditch it now.
Not sure why but True Car’s MSRP was $3k more than the BMW website and so the prices were also off. The MSRP via Kelley BB and Costco matched exactly to the BMW website so I think their invoice prices are in the ballpark. For those looking to buy a new BMW, bimmerfest forum has a calculation on how to estimate invoice, which is exactly $500 less than the Costco estimate. Presumably this is Costco’s ‘finders fee’? So, good to do some digging before you dive. It’s great to have this kind of information at hand. The last time we bought a new car >5 years ago, we didn’t have any invoice price information and had no way to assess whether we got a reasonable deal. Both dealers we’ve been to ask how we are going to pay for the car. Not sure if telling them cash is a good idea or not but it is what it is.
I might be the only one, but I never realized Audi was made by VW before your comment!
I agree that you don’t have to tell them how you’re paying up front, but I don’t think it’s a major deal either. I’d worry more about the trade-in than a huge difference between cash price and financed price.
Christy – tell them you’ll decide whether to pay cash or finance (and also decide about a trade-in) only after you have agreed on a price for the car. Keeping the 3 transactions separate prevents the dealer from making up for a good deal on the price with a bad deal on financing or trade.
(At the risk of overstepping my bounds – I am a reformed BMW owner. During my 6th year of ownership, with about 120,000 miles on a 2007 5 series wagon, the car cost me over $8,000 in maintenance and repairs, and stranded my partner on the road twice. I strongly recommend a nice, reliable Lexus. 🙂
No worries re: overstepping. My dad has a Lexus and it know it’s cushy and reliable, but it feels like a boat. It’s just no fun to drive. I’m a reformed Audi owner…maybe I’ll become a reformed BMW owner and end up with a Honda Civic but I think it’s a lesson I’ll have to learn the hard way!
Will do re: payment method. Thanks for the input.
I think you need a new boat if “it feels like a boat” is an insult.
Ha! Perhaps that’s our problem…..we don’t have a boat. Admittedly, not the best analogy, esp. with a moderator that’s a boat owner. Maybe the correction is that a Lexus drives, well….., like a Lexus, which isn’t that all much fun.
When I’m ready for a new car, I just tell my dealer what I’m interested in and he does all the work finding it in the colors, options I want, getting it to his lot and giving me first dibs. He gives me free oil changes, use of the dealer car wash, and will even bump me to the head of the line when getting recalls done or if I’m in a hurry. He is also a big donor to the school of which I’m on the school board and always the first to give us raffle prizes, etc. He does all this because I am a loyal customer of his. I’m not one of the masses that send them one of the thousand or so emails a day that look exactly like what you posted above. I walk in and talk to them face to face and negotiate a fair deal verbally. I get the same out of the door quote that everyone emailing does but I get all the perks I listed on top of that. Why has the American public become so gutless in negotiating for vehicles?
Mostly because we dislike being in car dealerships negotiating face to face against someone that does it every day and we’ve found that not only does it raise our blood pressure and waste our time, but we usually lose the negotiation. I’m glad that it all works out great for you, but I suspect you’re in a pretty small minority with your experience.
Judging from comments here and other places, I know I’m in the minority and thus my struggle to understand the “email way”. I guess because I know my local dealer and several of his employees by name and in some cases as good friends, I understand they are people too just trying to make a living and aren’t there to take every person for a ride. But like every profession, there are less than honest people in the car selling business too that give the entire profession as a whole, an undeserved bad rap.
P.S. As the spouse of a physician, I love your blog.
This is an interesting perspective. I once read a book about car buying written by a former car salesman. He had a chapter about “friends”, and was pretty clear that they did not give “friends or family” deals that were better than “off the street” customers. In fact, they would often give less optimal deals to them.
I’m not the most cynical person in the world, but I would wonder how good of a deal you really do get. I was once negotiating with a dealership, and the salesman asked me “how much I wanted to pay for the car”. I told him that frankly, I didnt want to pay for the car, but since just taking it was generally frowned upon in our society, I was forced to. I’vre also had salesmen tell me “I’m trying to make a living”. Frankly, their income is not my problem. The car buying experience is among my least favorite activities, because it is nearly impossible to understand the real value of the car. “Invoice” price is meaningless when there are factory to dealer incentives. But, to think that you are getting a good price because you are friends and a repeat customer is not reasonable in my experience. You get good service because either yu are a repeat customer from whom they make a good profit, or because this dealership is one of the exceptions based on the fact that it is located in a smaller community where these personal relationships are still possible. I can tell you that in the NY/NJ/CT tri-state area, this does not exist, as you never see a salesman twice because working conditions suck, and the turnover is so high.
I tend to buy new but mostly because I value a warranty a like cars. I have 6 year old BMW (paid off) that I intend to drive for probably 4 more years but maybe longer. I work only 3 miles from home so even at 6 years its only got 35,000 miles.
I recently got my wife a brand new 2016 GMC Acadia SLT2. We traded in our old car…… A 2013 GMC Acadia SLT2. I Owed about $19,000 on it and its warranty was about to run out. It unfortunately was involved in a pretty good hail storm. USAA gave us $5500 to fix it and while I was waiting to get it in for repairs (3 weeks) I took it in for an oil change. While there I asked how much they would give me for a trade in “if I had it repaired”. There answer $23.5K. So on a whim I asked “what about as is?”. Their offer… 21K.
I negotiated down the new car (43K) to 37.5K. Then applied the 5.5K from USAA for the hail damage giving me a cost of $32K for the car. I used most of the the extra 2K from the trade-in to purchase an extended warranty (6 years 90K).
So in essence I traded in a 3 year old car out of warranty for a brand new near identical car with a 6 year warranty. My monthly car payment went up about $4. I don’t think i would have done it without having the hail repair check in hand. But with the check I basically got $26,500 trade in on a car with a blue book value of 20-22K in good condition (which it wasn’t given the hail damage).
For those of us who are incorporated, and use their car to a great extent for commuting to work, does it make tax sense to have the corporation purchase the car? Is it possible and/or advisable to deduct the car purchase cost as a business expense to the corporation?
Thanks!
First, nothing unique here about a corporation. Any business (sole proprietorship, LLC corporation) can write off a capital asset to the extent it is used for business purposes. Of course, commuting isn’t a business purpose.
Second, I think you’re looking for a deduction that for the most part doesn’t exist. Now, if you are running a landscaping company, sure the business should own the truck, the trailer, and the mowers. Since the commute is going downstairs to the driveway, all mileage is basically business mileage. But having your physician corporation buy the car you’re going to commute in doesn’t make any sense at all, since commuting mileage/costs aren’t deductible anyway. But if you drive a lot of business mileage (i.e. between two hospitals you round at or between your clinic and the hospital) then it could make some sense. But again, the business doesn’t have to own the car to do this.
More details here:
https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/business-mileage-the-holy-grail-of-tax-deductions/
just another point about depreciation on a largely dead comment thread…
just got a nice used car, 2013 Lexus rx450h w/ 17k miles. i know i know, not perfect WCI activity but given where we are financially i decided to do it. our prior car would not fit a car seat and was starting to need major expensive repairs. and we wanted a hybrid for hippie reasons.
sticker price on the thing new was $58,500.
3 years, <20k miles later, walk away cost include taxes and title was $35,000
don't buy new cars!
I’m not sure any thread ever dies. I still get comments on 2011 posts.
SUV to replace my 10+ year old truck. So, I’m looking forward to hearing the story of your new wheels.
Wanted to thank you for your awesome post. I had negotiated a low mileage 2016 outback down to what seemed like a competitive range. On a whim, I thought to scope out some new 2018 outbacks for comparison and used your script, nearly verbatim. Interestingly enough, due to some quirks in regional inventory and dealer volume performance incentives, I was able to secure a new car for 2K less than the 2016 used car and 7% under invoice. As I am a terrible negotiator and can’t stand dealerships, it was crazy to see how effective this was. I basically said as little as possible except as noted above and didn’t pick up the phone when it rang.
Awesome! Fun to hear about getting a great deal!
Excellent article. I’ve always bought cars the same way. It’s the least hassle for the best deal.
Nice post! This is the type of posts I like, useful information. I can attest to same strategy about buying a new car emailing different dealerships. What I did different was to send my quote close to the exceptional value listed in Truecar well below invoice and one matched it. But I can see how not giving your own quote and letting them to show you their cards is better.
Honestly. Rather than spend 24 hours negotiating a lower price on a brand new car I probably would have worked an extra day rather than haggle for the dealership to pay them less. But I just see things differently. I would rather give the dealership a little more money and be extra nice to the staff because when I walk in they are happy to see me and EVERYONE there will go the extra mile to save me time and make things happen. Including the folks there all now want to do business with me. Which is worth $20,000 over what I would have saved.
Given how infrequently I buy new cars, I’d rather have the $20K than people who are happy to see me in the dealership. None of them will still be working there in 10 years when I buy another one!