
I finally broke down and bought some I Bonds, aka Series I Savings Bonds. As inflation continued to rise throughout 2021 and into 2022, especially with its rise to 8.3% in April 2022, it seemed sillier and sillier to earn 0.55% at Ally Bank (or a negative real yield on TIPS) when I could be making more than 7% with I Bonds with about the same risk. While it's hard to get too excited about earning 0% real, it certainly beats losing 7% real.
So in December, I opened not one but two TreasuryDirect accounts—one for Katie and one for me. Our trust will probably open one soon, too. I then proceeded to buy the maximum $10,000 of I bonds in each account. In the early part of 2022, I'll do it again for a total of $40,000 in I Bonds.
It was hard to get excited about I Bonds when inflation was well-controlled. The main problem I had with them was not the low yields, though. My problem was the $10,000 limit. But when the difference between a money market fund and an I bond with similar risk becomes 7%, I figured it was worth it. Even in the first year where we just have $40,000 invested, 7% of that is $40,000 * 7% = $2,800. Considering I spent less than 30 minutes opening accounts and buying them, it seemed a good use of my time.
[If you bought I Bonds after May 1, 2022, the interest rate rose to 9.62%, up significantly from the 7.20% in the previous six months. That I Bond rate stayed at 9.62% until November 1, 2022, when the interest rate adjusted again and fell to 6.89%.I've always had inflation-adjusted bonds in my portfolio (10%), but I've just used TIPS in something like the Vanguard Inflation Protected Securities Fund or the Schwab TIPS ETF. Going forward, I'll use a combination of I Bonds and TIPS. As my ratio of taxable to tax-protected space in the portfolio continues to rise, I may eventually even have to move the TIPS to taxable and start buying individual TIPS at TreasuryDirect. Unlike corporate bonds, individual treasuries are no more risky than a fund full of them, at least for the same duration.
How to Open an Account at TreasuryDirect to Buy I Bonds
In this post, I'll walk you through step-by-step instructions to open a TreasuryDirect account and how to buy I Bonds within the account. Note that you cannot do this inside a tax-protected account like a 401(k) or Roth IRA. Another note: if you've waited until the last minute to buy I Bonds at that 9.62% rate, it might be tough to actually log in to TreasuryDirect because so many people are trying to buy them at that 9.62% peak.
TreasuryDirect is a government website that is used to buy and sell government debt directly without any middle man. There are no fees, commissions, or expense ratios. Your fellow taxpayer covers all the costs of your investment there. That's the good news. The bad news? Well, it's a government website run by bureaucrats who don't care all that much about your business. It seems plenty secure but not particularly user-friendly. It wasn't too bad though, as you will see.
The homepage is extremely busy and filled with all kinds of links. The one you want is in the upper right.
There are other accounts you can open there, but you just want the plain vanilla TreasuryDirect account. You can buy I Bonds, EE Bonds, TIPS, T-bills, etc. all from that account.
This is just another busy, useless page. Click through at the lower left.
On this page, you select the type of account you're opening. For most people, it will be individual. However, you may want a trust account, which is at the bottom.
From here, the process is pretty straightforward. You just provide your personal info, choose a password (I recommend you generate a strong password using something like LastPass), and confirm everything. I didn't shoot any more screenshots as it's really straightforward and it would be a pain to black out all that personal info. You should also link the account to your checking account (that's what I did) to make purchases simple. You can also link it to your savings account if that's an easier way to buy your bonds.
Note that it asks for your driver's license number. This is not required information, but I provided it anyway, just like I do for any bank or brokerage account I open. I think it's generally used to help the bank comply with money laundering and anti-terrorism laws. I have no idea what happens if you do not provide it to TreasuryDirect.
If you are also opening an account for your spouse, you will need to repeat the entire process. After you create the account, you will need to log back in before you can do anything. The link is on the upper right on the homepage, a little above where you set up the account. This is the sucky part. You can't just paste in that secure password from LastPass. You have to type it in using a little keyboard that sits on the web page. I'm sure it's very secure, but it's a pain.
How to Purchase I Bonds
Now that you have a TreasuryDirect account, you can buy some individual securities in it, such as I Bonds. This process is even less complicated than opening an account. Take a look. First, log back into your TreasuryDirect account. Once you are logged in, you'll see this page:
This page has lots of interesting info, like the circled interest rates being paid on savings bonds right now (in the case of I Bonds, that interest rate is tweaked every six months). It also tells you what you own in your account. Click on the link in the top menu that says “BuyDirect” to go on to the next step.
You can buy all kinds of treasury bills and notes and bonds on this page. Maybe I'll do a post on that later, but in this case, just click the radio button labeled “Series I” and hit submit.
On this page, you simply select how much you want to buy (the maximum $10,000 per account in this case), select your bank (blacked out above), choose a date (like next available), and hit submit. If you just wanted to just buy a little each month, you could set all that up to take place automatically.
This is the final confirmation page. Make sure the info is correct, hit submit, and you're done. Within a few days, you'll have I Bonds in your account.
For a few people, after they create their account when they go back into it they are asked to go to your bank and get a signature guarantee from the bank. I'm not sure exactly who will and who will not have to do this, but if the government cannot verify who you are electronically, it will likely ask for this. If you have moved recently or have your credit frozen, this may happen to you. While it is undoubtedly a pain to do this (and especially without knowing whether you will or not when you start), it will only cost you a few minutes and a little hassle. There is no additional cost.
I Bonds provide inflation-adjusted but still very safe investment returns. The main downside is that you can only buy $10,000 a year of them. While you can increase that amount by opening accounts for yourself, your spouse, your kids, your businesses, and your trusts, it's hard to have them as a major holding in a large account. Otherwise, they're a great alternative to TIPS, and at the end of 2021 and the beginning of 2022 at least, they yield dramatically more. You can learn more about I Bonds here.
What do you think? Have you used TreasuryDirect? Was it easy or did you run into any problems? Do you like the idea of buying I Bonds? Comment below!
Quick tip about the Treasury Direct website: when entering your password, the website does not allow you to type it in. Instead, you must use an on screen keyboard.
To get around this, you can (wait for it):
1) Right click on the password box
2) Choose Inspect
3) Delete the part that says: readonly = “readonly”
At this point, this allows to either:
1) manually type in your password OR
2) Use your password manager (recommended)
Cool tip! Thanks.
Can minors buy/hold i Bonds?
Thanks!
Yes, via a custodial/minor account.
Thanks for the blog Jim and all of the great responses. Sorry for what may seem like a basic question. I purchased an I-bond for my spouse in Jan. 2022 and I’m purchasing an I-bond for myself now in Feb. 2022. My question is, when does the six month “clock” end for each I bond? Is it 6 months from actual purchase month? or will both “reset” and acquire collectively the new interest rate on May 1st 2022 and Nov. 2022 moving forward?
Good question. I think it is the latter.
Actually, I think it’s the first scenario. The six month period begins retroactively to the first day of the month you buy the bond and then continues for 6 months. The rate reset then continues every 6 months. A bond owner will get a full 6 months of each rate change regardless of when they buy the bond.
That’s kind of odd, but you may very well be right. I admit I was not 100% sure.
Thank you Jim and Doug for your replies. Having done a little more “due-diligence” and researched this question further, I have found the following: Doug seems to have been spot on,
“Your December 2021 I bonds purchase will turn your $100 into $103.56 just 6 months later. This is a 7.12% annualized rate” & “After six months you’ll get a new six-month rate, and your money will grow by that new rate”
I’m satisfied with the conclusion that by purchasing the I-bond now, I’ll possess the 7.12% rate until six months passes and then on August of 2022, I’ll receive the “new” rate for the subsequent 6 months and so on.
Great blog Jim!
Hi Dr. Dahle,
If I buy $10,000 in I bonds for my child, will it be part of $ 16,000 gift exclusion/year per person? My husband and I are going to contribute $ 32,000 in 529 college savings account in 2022. Will we go over the limit with I bonds?
Thanks,
Anna
Yes and yes.
Remember 529 contributions can be front-loaded though, so you can technically do what you have described. The paperwork can be a bit of a hassle though, so I’ve never put more than the gift limit (x1 actually) into a 529 in a given year. I mean, if you take a baby and put in $16K a year for 18 years and it earns 8%, that adds up to $600K. How much did you want to pay toward their schooling?
Thanks for your replay. Not a baby anymore, a high schooler now.
I’m curious why invest now, if you didn’t in the past. On the treasury direct website it shows that the composite interest rate has been higher in the past…we’re kind of at the lowest level it’s been over the last 20 years….so why not use the I bonds earlier? It’s been at 7-8% range for a long time.
Period when you bought
your I bond Composite rate for your six-month earning period starting during November 2021 – April 2022
(See “When does my bond change rates?”)
From Through
Nov. 2021 Apr. 2022 7.12%
May 2021 Oct. 2021 7.12%
Nov. 2020 Apr. 2021 7.12%
May 2020 Oct. 2020 7.12%
Nov. 2019 Apr. 2020 7.33%
May 2019 Oct. 2019 7.64%
Nov. 2018 Apr. 2019 7.64%
May 2018 Oct. 2018 7.43%
Nov. 2017 Apr. 2018 7.22%
May 2017 Oct. 2017 7.12%
Nov. 2016 Apr. 2017 7.12%
May 2016 Oct. 2016 7.22%
Nov. 2015 Apr. 2016 7.22%
May 2015 Oct. 2015 7.12%
Nov. 2014 Apr. 2015 7.12%
May 2014 Oct. 2014 7.22%
Nov. 2013 Apr. 2014 7.33%
May 2013 Oct. 2013 7.12%
Nov. 2012 Apr. 2013 7.12%
May 2012 Oct. 2012 7.12%
Nov. 2011 Apr. 2012 7.12%
May 2011 Oct. 2011 7.12%
Nov. 2010 Apr. 2011 7.12%
May 2010 Oct. 2010 7.33%
Nov. 2009 Apr. 2010 7.43%
May 2009 Oct. 2009 7.22%
Nov. 2008 Apr. 2009 7.84%
May 2008 Oct. 2008 7.12%
Nov. 2007 Apr. 2008 8.36%
May 2007 Oct. 2007 8.47%
Nov. 2006 Apr. 2007 8.57%
May 2006 Oct. 2006 8.57%
Nov. 2005 Apr. 2006 8.16%
May 2005 Oct. 2005 8.36%
Nov. 2004 Apr. 2005 8.16%
May 2004 Oct. 2004 8.16%
Nov. 2003 Apr. 2004 8.26%
May 2003 Oct. 2003 8.26%
Nov. 2002 Apr. 2003 8.78%
May 2002 Oct. 2002 9.19%
Nov. 2001 Apr. 2002 9.19%
May 2001 Oct. 2001 10.23%
Nov. 2000 Apr. 2001 10.64%
May 2000 Oct. 2000 10.85%
Nov. 1999 Apr. 2000 10.64%
May 1999 Oct. 1999 10.54%
Nov. 1998 Apr. 1999 10.54%
Sept. 1998 Oct. 1998 10.64%
Absolutely a fair criticism. I guess it’s just in response to the rising level of inflation. Probably should have been buying them for a while. I bonds have never paid this well on a total return basis. I’m basically earning 5% more on them than any of the nominal bonds I hold and significantly more than the TIPS I hold.
I’m not sure you understand the chart you posted though. You know none of those bonds were paying that much a year ago right? The figures in the chart are what bonds bought on those dates are paying NOW, not what they’ve been paying all along.
Got it… ok… that makes more sense
once you fill out the form and open an account, how long did it take for you to get the account number sent to your email? was it instant or take a day or two to process? Asking to figure if I should stay on hold for treasurydirect (current wait time over 2 hours!). Thank you!
My recollection is it all happened very quickly. Within minutes. But it’s been a while now and it’s getting fuzzy.
I didn’t call anyone; I did it all online.
Got it after 4 hours. FYI
Interesting. I opened another Treasury Direct account yesterday for a trust online. It took about 5 minutes.
Hi Jim, hopefully I didn’t miss this info somewhere in your posts, but at what point do you consider selling the i-bonds after taking into account the 5 year mark? It kind of depends on your current tax bracket, the current foreseeable CPI rate, and similar alternatives, correct? Thanks.
Can’t tell if you’re asking about me personally or about an investor in general, so I’ll answer both.
An investor in general should follow their written investing plan. If the plan says keep 5% of the portfolio in I Bonds, then one would buy more I bonds when the portfolio is less than that and sell when there are too many. That’s problematic because you can only buy $10K a year, but perhaps if you combine them into the same category as TIPS you could manage that aspect easier.
Personally, I try not to buy anything I’m not going to own for at least 5 years if not 40. There’s a pretty good chance my I bonds will still be sitting there in that account on the day I die. But I put I bonds and TIPS into the same category. I picked up I bonds this year because they were so much more attractive than TIPS and I suppose if they became dramatically less attractive, I could potentially dump them. I think you have to hold them for 1 year and then until 5 years you lose 3 months of interest by redeeming. So maybe I’d wait until they hit that 5 year mark unless the TIPS seemed so much more attractive that they would make up for that along with the fact that I couldn’t really buy the I bonds back.
Thanks for the great article. Dumb question: I plan to open a Treasury Direct Account and list my banks (Chase for checking and/or Synchrony for savings) to purchase some ibonds. Do I have to also go to these bank accounts and add Treasury Direct somehow as an External Transfer? Or will the banks release the funds since the request is initiated from Treasury Direct? Thanks.
The banks will release it just fine. No worries.
Any thoughts on whether the May fixed rate might increase from zero? I’m debating whether to purchase now or wait until May. Thanks.
With inflation pushing 9%? I wouldn’t count on it. They’re already more attractive than anything less than a 30 year TIPS.
So frustrated! Trying to set up Treasury Direct account and it won’t accept my proposed passwords. I’ve tried several combinations for over an hour, following ALL the requirements (“Use at least eight (8) characters without spaces, at least one letter, one number, and one special character, excluding “) but each time it is rejected saying either it needs a combo of letters/numbers (which is already has) or a special character (which it already has). Has anyone else encountered this glitch? I’ve never had this issue anywhere else!
Finally got account, please ignore my last comment. No idea why other passwords were rejected Sorry!
Weird.
Im new to investments. I have a couple CDs thatll mature in ’23 collecting a whopping 1.14%. Ive been hoping to see two year CDs go past 2.0% and ladder more CDs for 2 or 3 more years if the rates climb as promised throughout 2022. I would take the early withdrawal hit on the two 1 percenters and immediately CD it again with that money for the bigger yields which im tentatively and arbitrarily setting at something <2.5% on 3 and 4 year CDs .
Im too skittish on any investment plus im close enough to retirement age not to want to take many chances. I am a widower with two grown daughters, house is paid for, no bills to speak of other than maintenance and taxes.
I recently found out about buying i-bonds and really appreciate the fact I can put a chunk of money thats presently making practically 0 interest. Why are people limited to buying only $10000?? It would be nice if I could put more $$ into i-bonds from the comfort of my own cell phone?? I know you can put more money in with your tax refund but thats hardly anything coming as a tax refund for me. Is there certain way to do it that enables me to buy possibly double my yearly b limit that isnt advertised that lets you get more i-bonds?? As an aside, i mistakenly bought 13 week t-bills instead of the 7.14% i-bonds like i meant to. It didn't affect my being able to get the i-bonds like 8 wanted in the first place but how about me being able to convert the t-bill purchase into an I-bond buy??
Because the government says so.
You can open a bunch of trusts and buy $10K a piece with them.
You can sell the T bills and buy I bonds if you haven’t bought $10K yet.
Don’t forget that even someone on the verge of retirement may have a 30+ year investing career ahead of them. Don’t go too conservative or you won’t keep up with inflation over time.
Just realized I made a mistake buying ibonds today…the interest rate is about to be adjusted up in a couple weeks. From what I’m reading…sound like anyone who hasn’t yet bought and wants to… should wait for new rate in May?
Don’t feel bad. I bought today too. If it adjusts up, that’s great. Hopefully it keeps adjusting up and I’ll get an even higher rate next year.
But keep in mind I bonds, even at a 0% fixed rate, are the best fixed income investment out there right now. If you wait a long time to get a higher fixed rate, you may end up with a lower variable rate.
I bought ibonds yesterday also instead of waiting until May after reading articles that state we will get the April variable rate for 6 months and then the new higher rate for 6 months. (” If an I Bond is purchased in April, you’ll get the current rate of 7.12% for six months followed by 9.62% for six months. That’s a 12-month average rate of 8.37%”) I hope this is correct! The risk I’m taking is if the fixed rate goes up from 0% in May which most say is unlikely. BTW, thanks again for all the helpful advice here. Very much appreciated.
Any downside to using I Bonds to replace my normal bond allocation in my taxable account? Per my financial plan I normally purchase around $10k annually of Vanguards Total Bond Market ETF (BND). Seems like I should be buying I Bonds instead.
Gonna have to be a small portfolio to do that, but if you have a small portfolio it works fine.
Jim, are you planning on keeping I bonds until maturity (ie 30 years)?
Haven’t made an exit plan at this point. 5 years though anyway.
I want to open a treasury account for my wife, but she doesn’t have a bank account. Can we use my bank account for her treasury account to buy ibond? She is though not a joint holder in my bank account.
Yes, I don’t think that would be a problem.
Her not having her name on a bank account could be at some point in her life though.
Just bought my first iBonds and did it in the name of my revocable Trust and my wife’s. You said you might be able to get more than 20k in if you used Trusts. Do you know if it has to be a certain kind of Trust? Our Trusts are pretty basic Estate planning avoid probate type living revocable ones under our social security numbers. I would be surprised if we can do 20k in those and still 20k more in our individual names? Can you clarify that? Thanks
A revocable trust can buy Ibonds, although I haven’t bought any in ours yet. It doesn’t even seem to need its own EIN according to Harry Sit. But yea, that’s the way it works. You could open an infinite amount of revocable trusts and put $10K a piece a year into each of them.
https://thefinancebuff.com/buy-more-i-bonds-treasury-direct-trust.html
Not sure we’ll go to that much trouble, but we have three trusts so I figure why not buy $50K a year of I Bonds? So far I’ve only done it in one of them though.
You can also buy for the kids I bonds also right? So probably best to buy for the kids first before going to trusts?
Depends on how much you’ve given to kids already. I’m already using our $16K gift tax exemptions on 529s and UTMAs.
WARNING
Treasury Direct requires a paper form with a signature guarantee to resolve any banking problems with your account. Wells Fargo and Chase refused to provide me a signature guarantee. Thus the bank problem cannot be resolved and you can’t get your money out of treasury direct account. It’s not worth the risk for a few hundred bucks of interest.
Interesting that those large banks can’t handle that. My local credit union and bank can.
I filled everything out with all the information requested and now they are
Saying I need to get a form notarized at the bank. Why are they making things so
Difficult? They have my name, social, Drivers license # and they don’t know who I am?
Waste of time
Not sure what triggers that for some and not others. I guess it’s like most things run by the government…
Thanks Jim,
does this mean I can buy $10000 online today and then overpay my 2021 tax bill by the extension deadline by $5000 so I ensure I get a refund, and then buy another $5000 a few weeks later by paper transaction ($15000/yr)?
Also I have a PLLC so can I also duplicate the above for the PLLC this year? My PLLC is a SP so passes through to my own personal tax return- does this change anything?
That’s the way it is supposed to work, but keep in mind I’ve never done the tax return purchase myself and I’ve heard of people having trouble getting it done. I decided it wasn’t worth the hassle to me.
Yes, I think you can buy $10K for your LLC too.
I utilized the tax refund option for the first time this year. I probably won’t do it again, so I thought I’d share my experience. It was easy to request a $5000 refund by iBonds and confirmation came around the same time as a cash portion of my refund. The iBonds arrived in the mail about a week or so later. However, the bonds are issued in multiple denominations. They always issue the first $250 as $50 bonds, then the largest bonds they can to get to the total. Unfortunately, for $5000, that ends up being 6-$50, 1-$200, 1-$500, and 4-$1000. Each bond is mailed in a separate envelope. 12 separate envelopes to get lost in the mail. Perhaps my experience is unique, but only 7 bonds showed up, all on the same day (of course that included all the $50 bonds). I then had to wait a month before filing a lost bond claim.
Filing the claim hasn’t been terrible, although it helps to have the missing serial numbers and you have to call to get that information – which means a telephone hold time of about 45 minutes. I will say that the customer service agent at the Treasury was excellent! Extremely professional and helpful. She gave me all the information I needed and directed me which form to use. My signature on that form had to be certified by the bank, so that was an additional task. I mailed in the form and about 2 weeks later got an email confirmation that they had received it with instructions to allow 8 weeks for processing. It took the full 8 weeks and I received another somewhat confusing letter asking for additional information. It included a phone number with a direct access extension so I called that and another excellent agent picked up immediately – the same person who was working my case. She reviewed the case number and was able to clarify what she needed over the phone. She said she would re-issue the bonds and to allow another 4 weeks.
Last communication was last week. At this point, it’s been 4 months and I’m still missing $4200 of my refund. I do expect to receive them in the next 3 weeks and my strong customer service experience has boosted my confidence that this will all get corrected in the end. The issue date will still remain the original date so the delay will have no ultimate impact in interest or return. However, I’m not sure it’s worth all the hassle in the end. I probably won’t do it again next year.
I think you just talked me out of ever doing that.
I have 2 questions.
When trying to set up an entity account TD says this:
“NOTE: The Entity Name (Registration) is used as the registration for the account and must accurately reflect the legal instrument of authority. An invalid Entity Name (Registration) may complicate the processing of future transactions.”
1. I want to establish an entity account for my sole proprietorship but there is a little confusion about how to exactly do this. My yearly Schedule C form on my tax filing lists the company name as Telesis. My business license says Telesis Records. Which one do I use?
2. The TD tutorial says this:
An entity is not permitted to:
Name a secondary owner or beneficiary in its registration. Does this mean,
Only my name as the registrant but a secondary owner or beneficiary can be
Named somewhere else?
Thank you,
Ron
1. I’d use the official name, which sounds like it is Telesis Records. I’d start putting that on my tax return too.
2. No, I don’t think you can name a beneficiary. But since the beneficiary will own the entity, they will also get the account, no?
Thanks for the article, I have been over 95% stocks in my portfolio to maximize returns and starting late, but am intrigued by these I bonds given their latest returns. I have a question though. I understand that stocks are more volatile have historically returned about 8% annually but they are currently down. These I bonds supposedly return 9.62% guaranteed as of now, but isn’t it true that this rate is only good for 6 months, after which it could significantly drop? If the interest is based on a composite of a fixed rate, which is currently 0%, and a variable rate based on the inflation rate, assuming that the economy will eventually stabilize and the inflation rate drops, wouldn’t that lock up your money at a minimal interest rate, where you cannot withdraw it for at least a year, and have a penalty when taking it out under 5 years, and still have to pay taxes on the withdrawal? For example, even though the current interest is 9.62% as of May 2022, if you look back a couple years to May 2020 on the Treasury Direct website (https://treasurydirect.gov/indiv/research/indepth/ibonds/res_ibonds_iratesandterms.htm#past), the interest rate would be 0 + 0.53% x2 + 0 = 1.06%, is that correct? If so, it seems that even though the rate may currently be 9.62%, it could significantly drop over time where you would be stuck with a poor investment that is fickle based on the economy and making it just as volatile as stocks. As such, why would anyone want to invest in these? Am I missing something? Also, I have another question looking at the bottom of that Treasury Direct composite chart- it lists all the composite rates since 1998, which are all above 9.62% and as high as 13.18% in 1998, but the numbers do not add up based on their formula. Is this entire chart a typo?
US Stocks have historically returned about 10% nominal, not 8%. That doesn’t mean you should expect 10% going forward, but the historical record is what it is.
Yes, the I Bond rate is only good for 6 months, then it adjusts with then current inflation.
You’re only truly “stuck” with an I bond for one year, then lose a few months interest for the next 4. That’s more liquid than a lot of my investments so it doesn’t bother me.
I don’t know how the chart was made.
My Spouse and I purchased $10,000 each of I-Bonds on 9/4/2022. Account is set up But as of today
10-8-2022 – Balance = Zero ? Tried to Call Treasury Direct , Gave Up after 2 Hours and 40 Minutes of being on Hold .
Unknown what is going on ?
Anyone else experiece this ( Realize Hold Time is * Known Issue + Now TD will not respond to emails ?
Any Assistance – Comments would be most Appreciated .
No idea. Sorry they’re understaffed like everyone else.