
Bond investing, though it's dramatically safer than investing in stocks, real estate, or speculative investments, still involves risk. I'm always amazed to run into people who feel like bonds are hard to understand. The risks of bond investing are pretty straightforward, just like the expected returns.
Take Risk on the Equity Side
There are two main schools of thought when it comes to investing in bonds. The first is to seek out the best-returning bonds to maximize your return. The second is to use relatively safe bonds and “take your risk on the equity side.” When you invest in stocks or real estate, you know you're taking on risk. It's not a surprise to a knowledgeable student of financial history to see a 50%+ drop in the value of even a diversified equity investment or to see a leveraged investment get completely wiped out. But many investors are surprised when money is lost in fixed-income investments like bonds. They think their bond investments are safe, but some bonds are a lot safer than others.
From a tax perspective, it is more efficient to take your risk on the equity side as well. Bond returns are primarily from income taxed at ordinary income tax rates. Stock returns are generally paid at lower qualified dividend rates, and long-term capital gains tax rates (and even real estate income) are often sheltered by depreciation. I subscribe to this second school of thought. If you want more risk in the portfolio, increase the stock-to-bond ratio rather than investing in riskier bonds.
More information here:
The Risks of Bonds
There are three major risks when it comes to investing in bonds:
- Credit risk (the risk of default)
- Term risk (the risk of loss due to rising interest rates), and
- Inflation risk (the risk that your bonds will perform poorly on an after-inflation basis).
Let's talk about each in turn and describe what a savvy bond investor can do about them.
#1 Credit Risk
When investing in bonds, you should be far more concerned about the return OF your principal than the return ON your principal. Yes, it's nice to get periodic interest payments that you can reinvest or live off of, but it's more important that when the bond matures, you get all of your principal back. When credit risk shows up, you lose one and often both of these. Credit risk is the risk of default. A bond is a loan, and the borrower can make late payments or skip payments entirely. They might even not pay back some or all of your principal. The likelihood of the borrower defaulting varies by the borrower. Consider some of the people/entities you can lend to:
- Yahoos with terrible credit scores and high interest debt who are offering no collateral.
- Companies in serious financial trouble.
- Stable companies with a good record of earnings.
- Homeowners offering their homes as collateral.
- State and local governments with the power to tax their populace.
- The federal government with the power to tax and print money.
These products all exist. You may know them by the names of the securities:
- Peer-to-peer loans
- Junk bonds
- Corporate bonds
- Mortgage-backed securities
- Municipal bonds
- Treasuries
As you can imagine, the risk of default drops as you work your way down that list.
Peer-to-peer loans might have default rates of 20%, 40%, or more. In normal times, junk bonds only default about 4% of the time. But in severe economic times, such as 2008, that default rate can rise over 10%. The corporate bond default rate varies by rating. The highest-rated bonds, rated AAA, only have a 0.08% default rate over the next five years. Even bonds with a one-year default rate over 1% are still considered “investment grade.” The delinquency rate on single-family mortgages is typically in the 2%-3% range, although it was over 11% for a while after the Global Financial Crisis. The five-year default rate on municipal bonds is about 0.1%. In 2021, there were NO municipal bond defaults at all.
Most people believe the US Treasury never has and never will default on its debt. That's not exactly true. In fact, the US defaulted on its debt during the Civil War. In actuality, the US did pay on that debt, but it did so with nearly worthless “greenbacks” rather than gold. The US government refused to pay in silver or gold three other times (1933, 1968, and 1971). The US also stopped making payments on debt to France way back in 1785 and 1787, but it did eventually resume those payments and renegotiate the debt. Maybe you know all this if you've seen Hamilton.
A few decades later in the 1840s, eight US states and a territory defaulted on their debt. English investors in that debt were not happy. We missed some interest payments during the War of 1812, too (I don't think the English were all that happy about that either). Despite all this, most people consider loans to the US government to be riskless, although every time the debt ceiling comes up in Congress, people do wonder a little.
How to Minimize Credit Risk
How do you minimize credit risk? You simply only loan money to those most likely to pay you back. That typically means Treasury bonds, although investors in taxable accounts are often willing to use municipal bonds since their rate of default is still very low and after-tax yields are significantly better for high tax bracket investors. If you are going to invest in bonds that are not Treasuries, it is imperative to have adequate diversification against default. This is most easily done by using mutual funds—such as the excellent municipal, investment grade, and index bond funds from Vanguard.
#2 Term Risk
Bond values are sensitive to interest rates. If you are holding an individual bond until it matures, its value between purchase and redemption may not matter to you. However, if you're investing via mutual funds, it sure will. When interest rates go up, the value of existing bonds drops and vice versa. The sensitivity of a bond to interest rate fluctuations is mostly a function of how long it will be before you get your principal back so you can reinvest it at the new, higher interest rates. This is often measured using the time to maturity, but a better measure is the “duration” of a bond or the average duration of a bond fund. Duration is generally less than the maturity of a bond or the average maturity of a bond fund. If interest rates rise by 1%, the value of a bond or bond fund with a duration of five years will drop by 5%.
Long bonds are the most sensitive to interest rate changes. For example, the Vanguard Long Term Treasury Fund has a duration of over 16 years. Long-term Treasury rates went up by 3.2% from August 2020 to October 2022, resulting in a loss of nearly 50% of the value of those bonds. That fund recorded a loss of almost 30% in 2022 alone. This is the same problem Silicon Valley Bank had when it invested a portion of its deposits into long Treasury bonds and then subsequently failed when depositors made a run on the bank after realizing what its managers had done.
How to Minimize Term Risk
The main way to decrease your term risk is to only make short-term loans. Short-term and intermediate-term bonds don't have anywhere near as much term risk as long-term bonds. Cash is the shortest duration bond available. As Jack Bogle was fond of explaining, you can either have fixed interest payments or fixed principal but not both. With cash, you have fixed principal, but the interest payments fluctuate each month. With a bond, you have fixed interest payments but the principal fluctuates. As a bond gets closer and closer to maturity, it acts more and more like cash. In fact, the main investments held in money market funds (that we all think of in the same way as bank deposits) are essentially very short-term loans to corporations, cities, states, federal agencies, and the Treasury itself.
#3 Inflation Risk
Inflation helps debtors. If you have a low fixed interest rate student loan or mortgage, you are paying that back over time with depreciated dollars. Inflation helps you. But your debt is someone else's investment, and inflation hurts them. Sure, those investors might get all of their principal back on a nominal basis, but the money they get back won't buy nearly as much as it did when it was lent to you. Consider the student loan that I took out from the state of Alaska in 1993 to pay for my freshman year in college. It did not accumulate interest while I was in college, medical school, residency, or military service. When I paid back that $5,000 loan in 2010, I did so using only $3,290 in 1993 dollars.
Investors should always think in “real” or after-inflation terms. As the most common of the four deep risks (inflation, deflation, confiscation, and devastation), this is the bond investor's greatest enemy. In fact, it is the primary opponent for investors of all types, but nominal bonds, particularly long-term nominal bonds, are devastated by inflation. Imagine somebody who bought a $10,000 30-year Treasury in 1967. What was it worth in 1967 dollars when it matured in 1997? Just $2,068. The investor lost 80% of their principal in real terms. [Yes, I'm aware there were no 30-year Treasuries issued in 1967. It's just a hypothetical example, for crying out loud.]
How to Minimize Inflation Risk
There are two primary strategies for minimizing inflation risk. The first is the same strategy you use to minimize term risk: you keep maturity (and thus duration) short. That way, if unexpected inflation shows up and interest rates go way up to combat it, as they usually do, you can reinvest those proceeds quickly at the new, higher interest rates. The downside of keeping duration short, unfortunately, is that you are generally paid a lower yield, and this causes you to have lower returns that don't keep up as well with inflation. A better solution is to ensure at least some of your bonds are actually indexed to inflation so that when unexpected inflation rears its ugly head, you make a little more money on those bonds.
The main inflation-indexed bonds available to most investors are Treasury Inflation Protected Securities (TIPS) and I Savings Bonds. They work by different mechanisms, but the end result is similar—they do better than nominal bonds at beating unexpected inflation in the long run. I Bonds protect your principal even from rising real rates. Many TIPS investors were surprised to see the value of their TIPS drop in 2022 when unexpected inflation hit. But once they realized that real interest rates went up 4% that year, they were no longer surprised that their TIPS lost value.
More information here:
The 15 Questions You Need to Answer to Build Your Investment Portfolio
Municipal Bonds: How Much Is Safe?
Why Buying Individual Municipal Bonds Doesn’t Boost Your Return Over a Bond Fund
What Our Bond Portfolio Looks Like
Bonds make up 20% of our portfolio. We firmly believe in taking risk on the equity side (and we take on plenty, including market risk, factor risks, illiquidity risk, and even leverage risk with some investments). But we don't take much risk with our bonds. Consider our holdings (half of which are nominal and half of which are inflation-indexed):
- TSP G Fund: No credit risk, no term risk, rapidly adjusts upward with rising interest rates in inflationary times
- Vanguard Intermediate Term Municipal Bond Fund: Minimal credit risk, some term risk, no inflation protection
- Schwab TIPS ETF: No credit risk, some term risk, indexed to inflation
- Individual TIPS: No credit risk, no term risk if held to maturity (minimal anyway as most are < 5 years), indexed to inflation
- I Bonds: No credit risk, no term risk, indexed to inflation
Even as we move away from true bonds and take on significantly more risk, we keep these three risks in mind. We consider our real estate debt as part of our real estate portfolio rather than part of our bond portfolio. These funds hold short-term, high interest rate loans to real estate developers in first lien position. While there is plenty of credit risk, the real risk of these funds is that in a severe real estate downturn, the debt funds become equity funds as they foreclose on the properties they have been lending on. By staying in first lien position, default risk, especially the risk of total loss, is decreased significantly. Term risk is very minimal given the short maturity on these loans. Their high interest rates help combat inflation, and they are typically easily adjusted upward in inflationary times.
When investing in bonds, make sure you understand your three main risks and take steps to decrease them as best you can.
What do you think? What do you do with your bond portfolio to minimize these risks?
I have never been a big fan of bonds; though I still hold 10% in Pimco Income which I have held since inception; corporate bonds hold the risk of the company; govt. bonds … well, that’s a rabbit hole for a different forum. In lieu of bonds, I look elsewhere: utilities. FSUTX was up over 5% in 2022 when the general stock and bond markets were down. Admittedly, the yield is not as great as bonds. The other is GLFOX (Lazard Global Listed Infrastructure) where there is stock market risk, but with the majority of holdings in utility and similar infrastructure income streams are more predictable. Thus its stocks and cash.
So in other words you are 100% equities. That’s fine by the way if you are comfortable with the risk. I’m pretty much there myself.
I’ve said many times over the years that stocks aren’t bonds and I still believe that. That includes value stocks, dividend paying stocks, low beta stocks, real estate stocks, and utilities. If you want bonds, buy bonds, don’t pretend you can find stocks that can do what bonds so and a little of what stocks can do.
Regulated utilities are of course not bonds, but they hold monopolies and hold a unique sector of the market. The govt. has a vested interest in them. For a defensive allocation, they held up whereas stocks and bonds didn’t in 2022. Of course, not for everyone, but for those with a pension and who can take a bit more of risk, they are worth a gander and might in the end, not be so catawampus.
Knock yourself out if you want to tilt to utilities. But count them in your stock/risky investment allocation, not your bond allocation. They might be less risky than the overall market, but they’re far more risky than a treasury. The S&P 500 Utilities Sector was down 21% last year at one point.
https://www.barrons.com/livecoverage/stock-market-today-100523/card/it-s-been-a-bad-year-for-utilities-stocks-NGX0ouCFWNj44jgO4Lpe
Yup, part of stock allocation, but a unique market segment. Again, in this case, I use FSUTX, not the index; true FSUTX can take a beating, but then so do bonds. As some sort of “safer” alternative, bonds, we have seen in the recent past, fail. In 2022, they were about as useful as a screen door on a submarine.
In the end, it’s a well diversified portfolio. Its that diversification that one has to decide.
Have you done a post on the mechanics of buying individual TIPs? Thanks!
Here’s one for I bonds. I’ll try to remember to take some screenshots the next time I buy TIPS. It’s not very hard to buy TIPS at auction at Treasury Direct. You can buy them through your brokerage too.
If all your bond allocation would fit within the TSP (govt 401k), would the G fund be good enough?
I think so. I’m a big fan.
The other risk for a bond heavy portfolio (not the case with your relatively low 20% bonds) is you have a much lower balance after 20+ years than you would have otherwise. Someone who is 50/50 starting at 25 years old would (likely) have much less at 55 than someone with a higher stock allocation.
While might be worth it for behavioral reasons for that individual, a less volatile but significantly smaller portfolio isn’t necessarily safer that a bigger, more volatile portfolio.
You mean “you probably have a much lower balance after 20+ years.” No guarantee of that.
You’re right though that you’re balancing risk of loss with risk of your money not growing fast enough to meet your goals.
As an almost retiree (0.2 FTE) I decided to take no big inflation or credit risk and take modest duration risk. Bonds are 30% of my portfolio (all in my IRA) and consist of VTIP (short term TIPS ETF), and VAIPX (Intermediate-term TIPS mutual fund) about half and half. After some years of holding individual TIPS I decided that holding them in my IRA was a bit of a pain. I kept getting a few hundred $ in periodic coupon payments that ended up in the money market account and then I had to figure out what to re-invest those sums into. Yes, I’m giving up 5-10 basis points as ETF/mutual fund expenses, but that’s the price of simplicity and remaining fully invested at all times.
I have 15% of my portfolio across bonds and a money market fund (the money market fund is what I currently use for the defined benefit part of my combo DC/DB plan). The money market fund is currently returning 4.7%. Should I transition this over to a mix of short term and intermediate term bond funds? For the bonds in my DC plan, I’ve been using Schwab total bond index fund. Is this adequate or should I just go with the TIPS ETF mentioned in the article. I’ve always been confused about what I should be doing with bonds.
There are many roads to Dublin. Pick something reasonable and stick with it. A MMF is fine. Short term bonds are fine. Intermediate term bond are fine. TBM is fine. A TIPS ETF is fine. Any combination of the above is fine. No one can tell you what’s best without a functional crystal ball.
I’m primarily going for simplicity. But then I look at what you’re doing with bonds and you are very diversified within bonds using 5 different holdings. Is it a pain to re-balance this periodically? I was wondering if I should be doing more within bonds like you are. What’s the rationale? Just diversifying away risk within the asset class?
I don’t rebalance other than the nominal/inflation-indexed allocation.
I think it’s easy to justify adding TIPS (they’re not in total bond market fund) to a nominal bond allocation. Beyond that…maybe if you’ve got a large % of your portfolio in bonds.
Mostly the reason my bonds look complicated is because I’m investing in multiple accounts. If I could have all my nominal bonds in the G fund, I would. My individual TIPS are in taxable and my TIPS ETF is in tax protected. I’m kind of agnostic about which is better but individual TIPS aren’t an option in most of my 401ks.
The I bonds weren’t in there until I bonds went nuts a few years ago. Maybe they shouldn’t be. They’re a tiny percentage of our portfolio.
Thanks for the comments…..I’ve learned something. I’m going to mix in the TIPS ETF with the nominal bonds (Schwab TBM). That makes sense and is still simple.
Would you characterize a TIPS ETF as a TIPS ladder that you don’t have to put together yourself?
When one buys multiple individual TIPS over years, you’re basically running your own fund. So yes, very similar.
most of my investments are in a taxable account
my asset allocation is
1/3 domestic stock index fund
1/3 international stock index fund
1/3 intermediate term muni bond fund
is this a reasonable asset allocation? thanks!
Yes.
Just a note that the US defaulted on its notes in 1814; the govt. was bankrupt and not even soldiers were paid; they were offered land instead. For a quick summary of the finances of the US during the War of 1812 read: Eugene Van Sickle’s (Assistant Professor of American History, UGA) Financing the War of 1812
By 1814, the entire economy was collapsing; banks issued currency (the federal govt. only started that during the Lincoln administration) and with the shortage of specie, they stopped accepting other bank’s currency. The US govt. had its money in over 90 banks, each refusing to honor the other. (The BUS (first Bank of the United States) disappeared in 1811.)
Thanks for the additional info. It makes a nice addition to the post.
I’m constantly struggling to understand how to calculate equivalent portfolio risk and returns when looking at different types of bonds. I.e. I’d like to understand the difference between an 80/20 portfolio with a total bond market fund versus an 80/20 with intermediate treasuries. Given the lower risk of the treasuries, how much would I have to up my risk on the equity side to make the returns equivalent? Is it 82/18, 90/10 or so negligible that it looks like 80/20? Can’t seem to find a clear answer anywhere!
Good question. Not sure I’ve seen someone try to do it. I think it can be done, but not sure how accurate it would be anyway.
I agree on the accuracy point (feels likely to be an exercise in over-optimization), but other than a lot of manual guesstimating in some of the available tools, haven’t seen a way to do it mathematically.
Any thoughts on the TIAA Traditional fund? I have a TIAA CREF account from an old job and some TIAA enthusiasts promote the TIAA Traditional fund (it’s a fixed annuity). I have been using their CREF Core Bond and Inflation linked bond funds but just wanted to make sure I’m not missing out by not using the TIAA Traditional fund. Are there any advantages to using the Traditional fund as a “bond equivalent” over their bond funds? Thank you.
Might be worth a post. I know their Real Estate fund is pretty unique. Maybe their annuity is too.
That would be great, love to hear your thoughts. Thank you.