By Dr. James M. Dahle, WCI Founder
Indexed universal life insurance (IUL) is an insurance product that seems to promise you can have your cake and eat it, too. Unfortunately, as with most things in life, there are no free lunches. The devil is in the details, and when you really examine them, it becomes clear that these are products designed to be sold, not bought.
What Is Indexed Universal Life Insurance?
Indexed universal life insurance is similar to the more familiar whole life insurance policy in that it is composed of two basic pieces: first, a permanent insurance policy that will pay a death benefit whether you die young or old; and, second, a cash value account from which you can borrow money tax-free (but not interest-free) in order to pay for expensive items, educational expenses, or your retirement. The difference lies in how the cash value account grows.
IUL vs Whole Life Insurance
In a whole life policy, the insurance company determines the dividend rate. Each year, this announced rate is multiplied by your cash value and the product is added to your cash value. The insurance company is the sole determinant of what that rate will be, but it is generally considered to come from a combination of the insurance company’s portfolio returns, surrender fees, and the extra money available when people live longer than actuaries project.
With IUL, the crediting rate for your cash value is determined by a formula, instead of being at the insurance company’s discretion. The specific formula is outlined in the policy documents, but, in general, is related to the performance of the stock market.
Unfortunately, if you don’t listen and read carefully, you’ll misunderstand how the policy works and assume you’re going to get stock market-like returns on your cash value or, worse, on your premiums, not all of which goes to the cash value account due to the costs of insurance. The basic premise is that when the stock market goes down, you’re guaranteed a crediting rate of zero to 3%. When it goes up, you get to “participate” in that increased return.
Why Indexed Universal Life Is a Bad Investment
Your insurance agent is sure to point out all of the benefits of purchasing one of these policies; this article will show you five reasons why buying IUL is generally a bad idea.
#1 You Don’t Need a Permanent Death Benefit
The vast majority of Americans, and especially high-income Americans like physicians, will, at some point, no longer depend on their earnings from work in order to live. This is called financial independence. Once you reach this point, you generally no longer have a need for life insurance.
IULs are, by definition, permanent life insurance policies. Term insurance is very inexpensive: less than $350 per year for a $1 million, 30-year level term policy bought on a healthy 30-year-old. The reason it is so inexpensive is that people are unlikely to die before 60. If everyone died before 60, those policies would be much more expensive.
Since everyone eventually dies, permanent life insurance must be priced so that there is enough money to pay a death benefit to everyone. As such, the insurance component is very expensive. The portion of your premium that pays for the insurance component cannot go into your cash value account. The more the insurance costs, the less you’ll have in the cash value account. You don’t need a permanent policy to insure against a temporary risk.
#2 Complexity Does Not Favor the Buyer
IULs have many moving parts. The more complex the policy, the less likely you are to really understand how it will work in the future. The less you understand, the more likely you are to be disappointed when you eventually compare the steak to the sizzle you were sold. Also, the more complex the product, the fewer competitors it will have, and competition drives prices down.
Like any insurance/investing hybrid product, you need to hold a IUL for the rest of your life to achieve even a low return, and you are far less likely to do this when it turns out you bought something that isn’t what you thought it was. Those who sell these commissioned products are highly trained, but not in finance. Their training is in sales, and they are generally very good at what they do.
You may have noticed that the best products in life generally sell themselves. If a highly-trained sales force is the only way to sell something, buyers should probably wonder why.
#3 IULs Don’t Count the Dividends
You have probably heard that “the stock market returns 10% in the long run”. While this figure is approximately true—at least on a nominal (non-inflation-adjusted) basis—it includes the stock dividends, not just the change in the index value. IULs, however, only pay you based on the change in the index.
“So what’s the big deal?” you ask.
The big deal is that if you go back to 1870, the average dividend yield of the stock market is over 4%. Even now, at historically low yields of around 2%, the dividend still accounts for one-fifth of the market return. So if an index mutual fund goes up 10% (including a 2% dividend), an IUL may only credit you 8%.
#4 IULs Have Cap Rates
To make matters worse, IULs usually have a cap rate. That means if the stock market has a really great year, such as the 30% index return in 2013, your return is “capped” at some lower figure, often in the 10% to 15% range.
How much does that matter? Well, imagine if your policy had a cap of 12%. Any time the S&P 500 index returned more than 12%, you just get 12%. How often does that happen? Since 1928, the S&P 500 has had an index return over 12% 44 times, or about 52% of the time. It happens more often than not.
Even if you only go back 15 years to 1999, during this supposedly terrible period for equities, it has happened seven times. If that cap wasn’t in place, an IUL purchaser in 1999 would have had 69% more money than he really ended up with.
#5 IULs Have Participation Rates
If that wasn’t bad enough, there is also something called a participation rate. If your participation rate is 80%, that means that if the stock market goes up 10% (not counting dividends) you get 8% credited to your cash value account. After 30 years, a nest egg growing at 8% instead of 10% ends up 42% smaller.
Adding It All Up – Are IULs a Good Investment?
So how can IULs offer “market returns” while still guaranteeing you won’t lose money, at least on a nominal basis? They don’t.
You simply don’t get anywhere near the market returns due to the costs of the insurance, the additional fees, the loss of the dividends, the cap rates, and the participation rates. These products don’t pass the common sense test.
How can an insurance company give you most of the upside of investing in stocks while eliminating the downside? They don’t have any magic investments; they have to invest like anybody else. In addition, they have to generate enough money for profits and to pay hefty commissions to their sales force.
These policies are likely to provide a return very similar to that of whole life insurance (with the possibility of much worse performance), which is easily seen to be in the 2% to 5% range long term for a policy bought today and held for life. While it may have the word “index” in its title, an IUL has much in common with whole life insurance and almost nothing in common with a high-quality index mutual fund.
While guarantees are always nice, you don’t want to overpay for them. With IUL, you are doing so in the form of much lower returns.
Do you own IUL? Are you happy with your purchase? Why or why not? Comment below!
Sorry for the long post that you’re about to read, but it should clear up a lot of the understanding and misinformation on INDEX universal Life insurance.
So let’s discuss a few important things…
1.) FUNDING & STRUCTURING
The product is not a bad product, it’s just misrepresented by 99% of the agents out there that have LITTLE to NO idea how it works. Since they themselves have no education on how it works, they tend to SELL it more than to teach it. I’ve personally audited 250+ policies and have YET to come across a properly structured and funded policy highest I’ve seen was at 67% efficiency with most averaging about 36% efficiency, and have come across COUNTLESS policies that have imploded. I’d be more than happy if someone has a policy that has imploded that was structured and funded properly, I’ve yet to come across one, probably because of the before mentioned 99% of people don’t know what the hell they are doing. Make sure if you have a policy it’s audited by someone who knows what they are doing, otherwise you’re probably one of the 99%.
Number 2.) FEES & COI
Since the new 7702 code change(Jan 1 2021), COI has been reduced quite drastically. Not to mention you can control a lot of the COI for example a person could transfer $500,000 of assets into a policy over 3-5 years and still avoid a MEC using a term blend (yes it will SIGNIFICANTLY reduce your agents commissions and that’s why you don’t see it too often) if it’s Option A or level, it essentially utilizes your cash value as the NET benefit. Let’s say that $500,000 transfership needed a $1,500,000 death benefit to comply with TEFRA & DEFRA (based on risk class and age) well if year one you have $100,000 of cash accumulation built up to the NET benefit is still $1.5m however only $1.4m if that risk is still on the insurance company. As the cash grows the net amount at risk the insurance company actually reduces all way to a corridor which is typically around 5% so basically at one point you’ll have $1.5k of cash value but you’ll still need an additional 5% of insurance at risk to the insurance company ($75.000) which means you’re new net death benefit would be 1,575,000 with $1.5m if that being your own money. The IRS is basically letting you self insure. Utilizing this strategy you can reduce your COI dramatically.
Number 3.) CREDITING & ALLOCATIONS based on participation rates and caps.
Check with the carrier you are using, but some credit based on total premium then once credited they take any fees and COI, some do an average, and some remove fees and COI. BEFORE crediting… again check the carrier
Now in an illustration you’ll see three columns, one is the GUARANTEED column, what this illustrates is if the company was to MAX all expenses and COI as well as we were to experience an absolute bear market for several years. Some advisors will utilize this to show you’ll lose everything after “x” amount of years, however if it gets THAT bad That we have 15+ BEAR market years. I think money will be the least of your concerns at that point, we’d be in a more survival point.
The second column typically shows a “fixed” interest rate which is tied to the company’s “general portfolio” now most insurance companies deal strictly in more strategic safer investments such as bonds and MAJOR real estate (sky scrapers etc) doing so they can typically guarantee 3-6% returns per year, and if you kept your money in this account that’s what you’d get.
Which leads us to the THIRD column, the assumption based on whatever crediting allocation the agent is displaying. The way this one works is the insurance company takes that “fixed” rate they WERE going to credit you, and they purchase “options” Now these options are generally tied to volatility, so the more volatility the index has the more expensive the options are. For example the s&p can get quite volatile, so utilize your 3-6% to purchase the options, and in doing so much typically give you either a “cap rate” or a “participating rate” the more volatility in that index typically the lower the cap rate or participation rate will be. Now most reputable IUL companies will have ALSO have low volatility indexes as well that are sometimes cap-less or have an outstanding participation rate. So that far left column is basically an assumption of actual historical returns in that index, which or backtested, be careful with the back testing because sometimes hindsight is easy to abuse. Some companies have some INTERESTING crediting allocations. I’ve personally witnessed some people get up over 60% gains in a single year by having a good understanding on some those crediting options exceeding the caps and participation rates that can hold some strategies back.
4.) LEVERAGING YOUR CASH VALUE.
Something most people tend to not have a good grasp on.
Over time as you begin to build your cash value, the life insurance companies will often allow you to leverage that cash value against their money. For example: if you have $100,000 in cash value the insurance company will allow you to leverage their money. So you simply take a loan against the cash value via a variable loan or a fixed (no wash) loan. Now even though you’ve taken the $100,000 via loan your money is still technically sitting there earning interest. Now the company is going to charge you interest to borrow their money. Let’s say they charge 4%, you’re going to pay $4000 that at the end of the year gets compounded on the loan however if the market were to do 10% then your money is still in the crediting allocation therefore you’d get $10,000 credited (minus fees and COI of course)
Real estate and life insurance are the only 2 vehicles I know you can leverage like that (real estate using a heloc, doesn’t stop the house from appreciating)
I’d be more than happy to have a live recorded debate with anyone. I think IUL can be an amazing tool if properly funded and structured and utilize properly.
Well that was a lot of typing you could have saved by just saying “I sell IULs so I think they’re awesome.”
I agree the product is misrepresented, and your post is a great example of it. You say it is a great product and it isn’t. That’s misrepresentation.
I’m glad you agree that the older IULs were all crummy. I agree. Where we disagree is that the new ones are also still crummy.
I’m not surprised to see you looked at 250 of them and found them all to be done poorly. It’s rare that I see any kind of cash life policy that is designed to do anything but maximize the commission.
I agree that reducing commissions improves policy performance. Doesn’t necessarily make it good, but it does make it less bad.
If someone really wants to bank on themselves, I think they’re better off doing so with a whole life policy than an IUL. I have yet to see a situation where an IUL is the best financial product for a job. Whatever the job, it seems there is something better. WL, GUL, VUL, traditional investments, term insurance, 529s etc. There’s nothing I can find that an IUL does best.
Since they are being sold, most do it for the high commissions. I almost bought into one, then decided to get licensed and bought a small one for myself. I did it for family and friends too, but it was after they had a savings, no debt, and other investments. Most of commissions were 50% lower because of giving “riders” and balancing out the amount vs the monthly payments.
Once you have a satisfactory answer to below & can design a policy appropriately, this is not necessary a bad thing (as long as you are not using this as an investment vehicle, but a vehicle to supplement your income in retirement through generating cash value and providing death benefit)
———>
go with gradually increasing death benefit (lowest premium with highest cash growth, max overfund policy upto 4x base premium, while staying below MEC limit), blending permanent with annual renewal term insurance
– 80-90% cash value generated in year 1 (goal)
– Overloan protection rider
– Critical illness, chronic illness, terminal illness, critical injury riders
– Living benefits
– IUL Illustrations to see fees (always do this)
– Surrender Charges?? what to lose?? Fees??
– can you do Pension plans contribution into IUL??
– Guaranteed withdrawal ? When ? Tax-free ? Do they have to be loans when withdrawal or just a check cut off in my name that is tax free money?
– Also great, if you feel you are likely to cross estate taxes per irs set numbers currently
Like most agents selling this stuff, you’re talking out of both sides of your mouth. Most people would call “something to supplement their income in retirement” an investment. It’s not until you acknowledge that even though you as an agent can’t call it an investment that’s what it is being sold as that one can have an honest discussion about it.
You’re just parroting the usual sales lines. For example, your last point about estate taxes. Owning an IUL doesn’t change how much you will owe in estate taxes. If you set up an irrevocable trust that might help lower estate taxes, but there’s no law that says you have to put insurance in an irrevocable trust.
Love the article. I myself have been a LIFE licensed agent for 20 yrs and have had my Series 6 & 63 for the last 16yrs. I tell my friends that the ONLY people I would sell IUL insurance to are my ENEMIES and I have to really hate them to even consider selling it. One other fact is I bet that NONE of those who sell IULs on this thread have a FINRA registrations so of course they will always discourage the stock market and push insurance products, they obviously need to make commissions. ROTH IRA is a great vehicle for tax free growth and the fact that 99% of insurance agents don’t encourage it is 100% because they don have the registration to be paid to do it. In my career of 20yrs you’d be SHOCKED at how many basic illustrations I run into that the current cash value is not even close to the non-guaranteed projections it was sold to the client using. I’m yet to hear a single person say ” I’ve become financially independent because of my IUL policy” White coast investor, love the financial education you’re providing
Sorry to hear you couldn’t make it in your insurance career.
lmao, have an agency with 75 agents, fully licensed for Insurance, Investments and Mortgages and have over 800 clients. You must of not read my post correctly. WOULD NEVER SELL IUL’s. Have a blessed Sunday
Thanks for your kind words. Not surprised by your experience. I find it’s the same for everyone except those agents who sell it regularly.
I agree, I have noticed that most agents in todays environment are trained to believe a story sold to them by their trainers and have less than 5yrs in the industry. For this reason they are basing their beliefs on pure assumptions of illustrations and have not been here long enough to see the destruction it has had on families.
That’s why almost every post, comment ,video on tiktok are identical. Same cookie cutter training they get.
-401k’s are bad
-Clients have lost 40% this yr (lie)
– Tax free income (because it a refund of excess premiums)
– Don’t have to pay back loans (gets deducted from death benefit or cash value)
– Advisors don’t want you to know the truth
– 401k will cost you hundreds of thousands in fees when an IUL will cost you $1 (joke and also a lie)
– You qualify for MPI after two years. (Wonder why? Maybe because agent is out of chargeback window of two year’s commissions they get from the policy they sold)
– 2022 Market crashed when tons of my clients were down 4%-7%. Yes it’s a short term loss but nothing like the lies and fear they try to sell by saying their clients have lost over 40% of their portfolios. Yet they FORGET to mention or use that sales pitch when balanced accounts paid 18% in 2021, 10% in 2020 and 20% in 2019. Oh yeah because 2021 they would have been CAPPED and given up about 8% and in 2019 would have been capped and given up about 10% growth.
Being here for so long I guarantee one thing, 40-50% of all those agents pushing IUL, Whole life, MPI and Infinite banking concepts won’t be around in 2-3 yrs. It’s a cycle i see time and time again 🙂
This is obviously from someone not educated on IULs or how they work. Not many people are, so I understand… but know what you’re talking about before acting like you do. I’ve been a proud holder of IUL for over 15 years and have earned an average of 8% after costs and fees. It’s helped me fund my two kids through college AND buy and flip a couple of investment properties. This is all money that is free from going on my taxes. My husband couldn’t believe the usefulness of the product and had to start another one himself!
Let me guess what you do for a living…..
BINGO
Point #1:
The way you explain “how an IUL works” is completely false! Your “Participation Rate” scenario is false! you explained it completely backwards! First off, if you are working with an insurance company that offers anything short of 100%guarantee + the participation rate, then you are with the wrong company! A participation rate works like this: Let’s say the market ends at 10%. And let’s say the participation rate is 80%. (Just like your scenario) In a properly structured IUL policy, you are guaranteed 100% of the market value; which in this case is 10%. The participation rate is on top of the 10% market rate. You don’t take 80% off the market value like you said, you add the participation rate to the market value for that year. So you have the 10% guaranteed + an extra 80% participation rate. If you were invested in the market outside an IUL, then your interest that year was 10%. Inside a properly structured IUL, you will get 18% (100% guaranteed value of 10% + an extra 8% participation rate) So that year your rate was 18%.
Point #2:
EVERYONE needs life insurance. Just because you are wealthy or live comfortably doesn’t mean you stop needing life insurance. Life insurance is for longevity. It’s for your beneficiaries. It have living benefits attached as well. Let’s say you get a terminal illness. The medical bills alone will eat up whatever savings you may have. Then what do you leave your posterity? That’s right NOTHING! So your spouse or children will have to fork out money to pay your funeral costs! That’s no way to prepare for the future! I think it’s interesting you only talk about the wealthy or the high end earners like doctors. What about the rest of the world? What then? You have to talk about everyone not just those that fit tightly into your circle of clients/friends.
Point #3:
IULs have Caps? Really? You’re lumping ALL IULs into one neatly stored jar. Not all IULs are made equal. If the insurance agent and insurance company truly value’s their clients and takes the clients needs above their own commissions, then IULs work for everyone. Sure if you pick the S & P500 or similar index, you will most likely have a cap associated with your policy. But not all index’s use caps. For example: The Barclay’s index doesn’t have a cap. The Bloomberg or PIMCO indexes don’t have caps. Is it true some IULs have caps? Absolutely. That’s why I harp on structuring your plan correctly. It matters what insurance company, insurance insurer and index you use. If it is structured correctly, the IUL will grow and last throughout retirement REGARDLESS of what you say in this article. It’s obvious you don’t support IULs or you wouldn’t give such a biased account of IULs. I’ve been an insurance agent for 4-1/2 years now. I love it! Our company and partners care more about our clients than we do our commissions. We don’t “sell” off of the illustration. We educate out clients on the different aspects of IULs, IRAs, Whole Life…etc. We are 100% transparent and open with our clients about the percentages, loan rates, interest rates, guaranteed vs market based…etc.
# 1 No, you’re wrong and are really doing your clients a disservice despite your vast 4 1/2 year experience selling this crap. You’re basically showing the audience that even those who sell it don’t understand it.
# 2 No, not everyone needs life insurance. Did you company tell you that in their training? It’s BS. I have no need whatsoever for life insurance.
# 3 Yes, many IULs have caps. Just like you admit. Potential purchasers should be aware of that.
I would intentionally avoid writing a lengthy piece because it’s of no use really. I find your expose quite basic with little or no factual evidence.
You need to go do some more research on IUL and stop misleading those who are actually doing some research with the intent to unveil the benefits of IUL and how it can help their retirement portfolio. Unfortunately, you article is quite deceptive and does not portray the true picture of an IUL. I own an IUL and the benefits far outweighs the mutual funds and stock you’re here trying to magnify in your article.
It seems you are another one of the naive new IUL customers. Go to a financial professional who is not a insurance sales person and show him your policy and get an honest opinion.
I have not seen a single IUL policy which made any sense. I spent two years learning the IUL INSURANCE business and learned about many different products from different providers. None made any sense after the insurance costs over long run and the expense costs and the caps.
Glad you like your policy. What do you do for a living?
Are you comparing Cash value and assuming you are negative in 1st year? Shouldn’t you check death benefit coz main purpose of IUL or permanent life insurance is death benefit? Comparing death value isn’t your policy positive from first year?
You mentioned about cap when market is doing better. But did you really thought how much you need to gain in stocks to breakeven when market tanks? (Say market tanks 10% – you need 11% growth in market to break even. For 20% loss you need 25% growth in market. And for 50% loss you need 100% growth in market to recover. That is just for break even).. But with IUL you don’t need to worry for losses, your cash value gets 0% losses when market tanks. Stocks and mutual funds don’t guarantee that.
Of course don’t put all eggs in same basket and diversify. But I would not disregard IUL as bad. It gives great flexibility of payments and it has its place in defensive planning strategy where you want to pass on wealth tax free and guaranteed no loss.
What’s the worst that can happen if someone “disregards IUL as bad?”
The guarantees cost too much.
Being passive investor, I am first sold on no loss guarantee for something that’s designed to go to my dependents as death benefit. Added advantage is all proceeds go tax free.
Active investors like you can manage way better growth than IUL but in my view it fits my need as defensive planning so not bad.
If the guarantees are worth millions to you, then you will probably like saving for retirement using permanent insurance policies.
Well everyone takes decision based on their own risk appetite.
My investment in IUL is defensive strategy point of view. With term my dependents would get death benefits for let’s say next 20-30 yrs – what after that? Though term to perm option is available those payments would be higher than IUL; I was looking for something to replace when term was covering me now.
While comparing perm life quotes, IUL fits my need of flexible payments and I made sure to get no spread, no cap and no charges for indexing. So I won’t say it’s bad in my views.
Each person has its own appetite for risk…maybe as active investor you can monitor market and move assets. I would lose my money if I put everything in just stocks and mutual funds. I would take risks on stocks but based on my risk appetite.
Btw, what are those no tax money market funds? I read in one of the comments but not aware of those.
You know what helps me “play a lot of defense”? Having a lot of money. When you invest in real investments, your money grows faster. Those guarantees are expensive and get more expensive as they compound over time.
What happens after 20-30 years? (15 in my case). You drop the life insurance because you don’t need it anymore because your nest egg is so large because you invested in real investments instead of life insurance. Google “Buy term and invest the rest” for details. If you need to replace your term life insurance, you screwed up. You either screwed up your insurance purchase (didn’t buy a long enough term) or you screwed up your investments (didn’t fund adequately or didn’t achieve market returns).
Not sure why you’re accusing me of being an active investor/trader for some reason. My investments are 85% index funds. I do not understand why you’d lose all your money if you “put everything in mutual funds”. Sounds like you need to learn how to invest. It’s not complicated. Just keep buying index funds until you’re rich. That’s it. Works very well.
No comment on this article.
“Dr.” behind your name carries a lot of weight – people trust you because of your vow.
Under the same vow, can you answer below?
1. are you licensed? —- as I checked, FINRA and DOI at Utah don’t have any record of your record (investment, insurance)
2. what is your credential to speak about a financial investment?
That’s quite a comment for “no comment”.
It’s also rich to leave an ad hominem attack while staying anonymous.
Maybe people should trust me more than the licensed professionals given that I tell them the way it is rather than selling them crap they don’t need.
1 & 2. Last I checked, financial bloggers don’t need a license nor credentials. Yet people trust us more than “the pros.” Maybe you should ask yourself why that is.“A good tree cannot bring forth evil fruit; neither can a corrupt tree bring forth good fruit. Wherefore by their fruits ye shall know them.”
I came her for my own research and wanted to get your thoughts… you obviously hate IULs and I’m not really on either end, just trying to learn more. I have been working with a CFP who recommended an IUL as a buffer. Since my wife and I are both maxing out our Roth 401k, Roth IRAs, HSA accounts and placing the rest of our cash in a Brokerage account, he (CFP) recommended to continue to stay 100% in equities (diversified index funds) and use the max funded IUL as a buffer in place of transferring into bonds. I’ve read some of the work by Wade Pfau, who is highly regarded in the “retirement world” and he feels these can be useful in certain circumstances where we are already funding our other accounts to help decrease the tax burden in retirement and have access to cash. It was sold to me as a way to have access to tax free money in early retirement by taking out loans to decrease taxable income. I was told it needs to be max funded and to purchase the least amount of death benefit possible. I didn’t commit yet because I wanted to do more research. In this specific case what would be your thoughts? If you are against it, what would be the best way to have less risk and tax benefits? I’m just looking for advice more than arguing either side. Been working hard to retire early and I don’t want to screw anything up. Thanks.
How much does the CFP make from this recommendation?That’s the first thing I’d determine. If he makes anything, I’d go elsewhere for advice, even on this subject.
If I wanted to “invest” in cash value life insurance, I’d probably just buy a whole life policy rather than messing around with an IUL policy. If you want equities, buy equities. If you want guarantees, buy guarantees. IUL provides neither equities nor guarantees.
If you want tax-free money in retirement, I’d suggest you start with Roth contributions and conversions. Is there a particular reason you want tax-free money in retirement? Do you expect to be in a significantly higher bracket then? Do you not have any Roth money at all? What fear is causing you to consider buying insurance you don’t need exactly and what other ways can you deal with that fear?
And if you decide you want to buy an IUL, knock yourself out. It’s not my money and you don’t need my permission. If you understand how it works and you want that, then buy it.
Thanks for the feedback. I feel there is a chance of taxes being much higher at that time and I feel we will have a large tax burden down the road… I know he makes something from the IUL hence the reason I backed off, I’m just not sold. Reading through this is making me even colder on it… I did forget to add, one of the main reasons I was considering the IUL is if the market is not in a good place around the time we plan to retire, I can take a tax free loan from the IUL rather than a distribution from our retirement accounts while they are at a low point. As that could have a huge negative impact on our retirement funds going forward. Thanks again for any thoughts.
You can also borrow against your car or house or portfolio tax-free but not interest free as a buffer asset. You don’t have to buy life insurance to do that.
Do you want/need a permanent death benefit?
Good thoughts, for whatever reason I never really considered taking out a home loan as a buffer asset in early retirement if needed. Always thought it was a bad idea to take out a HELOC but in this scenario it could be a better idea rather than taking money out of retirement accounts in a down market if that were to be the case. I guess I want a death benefit, but almost I feel that the investments I would leave behind may take the place of a needing a death benefit. Appreciate the response, this thread definitely got me thinking differently.
Theoretically you’d pay it back when the market recovers.
I’m curious if there is a situation where you’d consider investing in an IUL. For example, for someone who is maxing out all employer 401k and roth accounts/529, completely debt free, and has asset protection in place term life/umbrella/true own occ insurances. Would you carve the remaining ~50k a year for cash flow real estate investing, angel investing, IUL?
Hey WCI, thanks for keeping up with this post. I wish I could go back in time and slap my old self, a totally financially naive recent grad who had just seen people get wiped out in the Great Recession. It made me a nervous about drawdown and the “security” of a no downside IUL seemed attractive.
I’m about to enter year 13 of a IUL policy, and have just now in the past year crossed over to having a surrender/cash value above my cost basis. I put a little under 140k into it so far (12k/yr) and have a value of about 150k. If I had just dollar cost averaged monthly into VTI it would be north of 250k. Quite an expensive lesson.
When I contacted my agent about surrendering he was unsurprisingly resistant, claiming that I had made it through the “expensive” part of the policy and it was all upside from here. (While neglecting to mention my index credit had been lowered to 7%). At this point I can’t see any reason to keep this product. I know you can’t give specific financial advice but is there anything I am missing? It seems like a good time to get out, eat only a minimal tax hit from the “gain”.
Congrats on breaking even after only 13 years.
The agent is right that the lousy returns are heavily front-loaded. That doesn’t mean you should keep it though. These posts should help:
https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/how-to-evaluate-your-own-whole-life-policy/
https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/how-to-dump-your-whole-life-policy/
I sifted through my old in force documentation and my most recent one from about a month ago. I had failed to realize that they had slowly decreased my index growth cap from 14% to 7%, all while having a burner few years in the market. And unsurprisingly my current surrender value lags what was projected. Thanks again for the work you do. As someone who works with a residency totaling almost 120 people I’m going to do my best to have some series on financial literacy that we never had (and keep young impressionable doctors as far away from these as possible).
A great example of what I really don’t like about IUL when compared to WL. Not that I like WL all that much.
I just made the painful realization that my father is not a financial planner as I had always believed but rather an insurance salesman. I am kicking myself for not being more savvy, but have had my mind on medicine for the last 20+ years. I knew little to nothing about money, finances, etc.
I had a 403b for almost 10 years but dad has been managing my retirement for the last 9 years. All I have in my portfolio currently is an IUL and annuities. I have about 15 years before retirement.
This year, I started paying more attention . The IUL: I have put in 204K (196 of my own cash and 8 from a gift from dad) and its worth only 200K after 9 years. Over the last 2 years, they increased fees to 47%. The surrender value is 168K.
I read most all the comments in this feed and have learned A LOT. Sadly, my father believes in his product and is begging me not to dump it. When I rebut with the heavy hitters like Dave Ramsey, Suzie Orman, Clark Howard, etc and even show him the class action suits against Doug Anderson, he sends me more industry sponsored literature. One email even ended with , “Show this to your prospects.”
Anyway, he says he feels badly that he “let me down” and offered to return my original investment but of course can not make up the interest I would have made had I invested it. He has offered these options:
1. Take out your $155K Tax-Free withdrawal and keep the policy
a. reduce the FV/DB to $1.2M, thus reducing your ANNUAL deposit premium to $1571. There wouldn’t be additional Tax-Free income for you (due to the loan interest accumulation on the $155K because the $1571 is “buying Insurance only ” – not replacing the loan & building CAV) at age 67. However, the DB would survive until age 90. (30-year term insurance policy illustration getting a quote from the cheapest term policies the premium for you at age 50 for $1M of DB is $2446/annually. At age 80 the plan is gone with zero value (about the time you are looking at to really need it). At this point you’ve put in $73K into the term plan. However, if you look at the Option #1 illustration, at age 80, you’ve put in $47K and you still have $650K of DB
b. Dad “buys you out” in the amount of $41,348; which make you even of the total amount of dollars that you’ve put into the IUL up to this point: $196,348. ($155K withdrawal + $41,348 buy-out = $196,348
c. You keep the $1.2 million DB with a $1571 annual premium to keeping required FV/DB to satisfy liability requirements of business & building loans. Usually, loaning intuitions require such collateral. As well provide your family a $1.2 million DB value incase you leave us.
2. You completely surrender the IUL . The Cash Surrender value is $168,430.
a. Dad buys-out your shortage of the SV & the Premium deposit that you’ve put into the plan; $27,917.
b. Your IUL has earned $55,183 (see green line on the Yr2Yr spreadsheet) of interest credits applied to the account which reflects in the Accumulated Value. The original illustration reflected at a 5.5% growth rate, the total interest credit at this point would have been $58,566; a shortage of $3,382 of original illustrated ROI.
Thus dad buy-out this ROI shortage of $3,382.
c. So, with the $27,917 SV shortage, plus the $3,382 ROI shortage, plus the $339.98 shortage of the Current AV, the total “buy-out” of $31,640, on top of your SV of $168,430, you walk away with $200,070; $3,722 more than you put into the plan
I cant regain the loss of compounded interest over the last 9 years, but I guess I should at least be thankful that he is offering to try and mitigate the damage with a personal refund. He says I cant get a term policy for less than 2k. I am in good health and age 50. I need to look at term life insurance rates, but if I can get one for less than $1571 in annual premium, its a no brainer to surrender the policy. Any thoughts? Also, once I deal with the IUL issues, what should I do with the annuities? Once they expire, should I roll them into a mutual fund or leave them be and just start putting new money into an index fund? They total over 500K
Thank you so much for all you do.
I’m so sorry. What an uncomfortable and costly situation.
Well, before you do anything with the IUL, figure out what your need for life insurance is and see if you can get term for a price you’re happy with. Make sure it’s in place before you surrender your IUL. The most important thing is to have some form of insurance IF you need some form of insurance.
It sounds like you don’t want to own an IUL policy. I don’t blame you. I wouldn’t want to own one other. So assuming you can get any needed term, you only need to look at options that get you out of the policy. So I’d take the one where dad pays you the most and you get out. That sounds like option 2 to me.
Then figure out what you want to do with the money in the annuities. More info needed there though. Are they in the 403b or is the 403b gone or is the 403b separate from the annuities or what? What’s your surrender value to get out today and does that get dramatically better if you hold on another year or two?
Thank you so much for your quick reply. The 403b was rolled over into an annuity after I left that job 9 years ago. I am in the process of finding out all of the expiration dates on the annuities that I have currently with my father. Ill hold them as long as I need to decrease the loss. Once they expire, I wonder if I can roll them into a 401 k or just leave them as they are. Going forward, I plan to use the next 15 years for 401 k contributions.
As for life insurance, I honestly don’t think I need it. I do need disability though.
If they’re qualified, I think you can roll them into a 401(k). If you took the money out of a qualified account (you probably didn’t because of the tax cost) that might not be the case.
If you don’t need life, then I’d get out of it.
A friend who took IUL introduced me and my husband to an agent who is selling us IUL with the concept that when we take loan on cash value and as policy holder we decide how much interest we want to pay is that true?
No. The terms on policy loans are generally set in advance when you buy the policy. It’s possible there is some sort of policy with variable loans but I’ve never heard of one, and certainly not one where you can just randomly decide what you want it to be. That almost surely doesn’t fly.
A Big Thanks to you @Whitecoatinvestor. You saved me from a disastrous choice I might have taken from a friend IUL agent.
Our pleasure. Bummer that friends do this to each other.